NO Codes, But Exhaust Brake Quit Working - How Do I Test Actuator?

**centerline** · 08-16-2020

Deleted 6.7L Gen 4 RAM.

The exhaust brake worked dependably but squealed loudly because of the exhaust leaks at 3 exhaust ports due to a wARPed manifold.

After replacing the exhaust manifold and the gaskets and reassembling it all, it seems to run great, but with a lot more black smoke than it used to have, and the exhaust brake no longer works.

We did not touch the wiring to the turbo during our manifold replacement, but have since disconnected and reconnected them without any change.

There are NO CODES being thrown and after reading about how the system functions.

I removed the actuator from the side of the STILL INSTALLED turbo in an attempt to see if the turbo vane lever was stuck and it moves freely.

so how does one go about testing the actuator to see if it works?

Or test the wiring to see it there is a disconnect somewhere?

Thank you

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**AK Bob** · 08-16-2020

If you have the stock actuator and you removed it then moved the turbo veins to make sure they move freely you will need to calibrate the actuator.

You can calibrate the actuator with AlfaOBD and a OBDLink Bluetooth adapter.

If the actuator is bad you should be throwing codes.

Others should be chiming in shortly.

2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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**centerline** · 08-16-2020

The OBDlink bluetooth adaptor, which model should I get that works with the APP to access the vehicles system?

Models EX, LX, MX and MX+.

The MX+ looks like the newest version.

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