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Thread: Tips & Tricks For Your 68RFE Valve Body Swap

  1. Top Of Page | #1
    ZeroSignal's Avatar

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    Tips & Tricks For Your 68RFE Valve Body Swap

    Since there are a lot of folks out there interested in upgrading their valve body I figured I'd post some of the tricks I used on my truck to help you along your way.

    First, this can be done in your driveway in less than 2 hours.

    This isn't intended to be a step-by-step "how to."

    There are a number of "how to" videos on YouTube that show the process from start to finish.

    This is just some lessons-learned that might help.

    First, go to Home Depot, Lowes, or your favorite hardware store and get a cement mixing tub to make life easier.

    I got a large tub, which is about 36"x28" for $12.

    Since the OEM pan doesn't have a drain plug, draining the fluid and dropping the pan is a mess.

    I removed all the bolts on the rear of the pan and along each side of the pan then loosened the three bolts on the front of the pan, but left them installed.

    Then, slowly break the seal on the rear, starting at the corner of the pan, and drain as much fluid as you can by slowly working that corner loose.

    Once the flow slows down, work your way along the back edge, breaking it loose slowly.



    Once the old valve body is out, I took the opportunity to clean around the solenoid pack port.

    As you can see from this photo, that port leads straight into the transmission, so dirt and crud could easily find it's way into the transmission as you're fooling around with the valve body.



    Assuming you're following everyone else's advice and doing this install with your truck in PARK. and make sure the TRS plate on your new valve body is slid all the way to the rear position.

    Chances are, your builder shipped it with the TRS plate pushed all the way forward.

    Make sure you slide it all the way back to the last notch, so the slot in the TRS plate matches up with the dowel pin on the shifter lever in the transmission.

    As you're pushing the new valve body into place, take care to make sure the shift lever is settling into the TRS plate notch and not binding up somewhere.

    Before you button up your transmission and refill it, hop in the truck and make sure you can move the gear selector through the P-R-N-D range normally.



    Lastly, you can fashion a spill-proof funnel for refilling the trans by using a long neck funnel and some 1/2" ID clear tubing.

    I had the tubing leftover from doing an ATF exchange on our Volvo S40.

    It slides into the 68RFE dip stick perfectly, so I could rest the funnel at an angle that allowed me to fill the trans with no drips or spills.





    Now, in conjunction with the valve body swap, I installed a PPE deep transmission pan with an extra ~3-quart capacity.

    With the valve body, 2 new filters, and a deep pan, I ended up needing 10 3/4 quarts of ATF to fill to the proper level.

    If you're re-using the OEM pan, I'd recommend refilling with about 6 1/2 quarts, then starting the truck and topping off from there, so you don't overfill.

    That's all I can think of for now.

    If you have any tips/tricks of your own to add, drop them in this thread to make everyone's life easier.


  2. Top Of Page | #2

    Re: Tips & Tricks For Your 68RFE Valve Body Swap

    Very informative.

    Did you do a quick learn after the installation?

    If so, could you use the tuner, or did you use a scan tool?

    Also, if you still have the rig two years later, how is the transmission now?


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  4. Top Of Page | #3
    BrentM's Avatar

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    Re: Tips & Tricks For Your 68RFE Valve Body Swap

    Cement mixing tub what a great idea.

    I wish I had read this a week earlier.

    Brent
    2017 Ram 2500 Limited / 6.7 / 68RFE / BDS 8" Lift / 38 x 13.5 Trail Grapplers / 20 x 10 Hostile Wheels
    2020 Ram 2500 Tradesman / 6.7 / 68RFE
    1993 W250 LE / 5.9 12V / G360 - 5 Speed


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  6. Top Of Page | #4
    ricky_bobby's Avatar

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    Re: Tips & Tricks For Your 68RFE Valve Body Swap

    Agreed.

    The mixing pan is a good idea.

    I will pick up some clear 1/2" tubing for filling as well.

    I have my VB ready to go in, and I am going to drill a small pilot hole to drain the trans first (I am replacing it with an OEM capacity pan with drain plug, Dorman pan)

    Another tip is to make sure you clean clean clean that case mating surface of all RTV really well for the pan reinstall.


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  8. Top Of Page | #5
    MOD watersupply189's Avatar

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    Re: Tips & Tricks For Your 68RFE Valve Body Swap

    Quote Originally Posted by ZeroSignal View Post
    Since there are a lot of folks out there interested in upgrading their valve body I figured I'd post some of the tricks I used on my truck to help you along your way.

    First, this can be done in your driveway in less than 2 hours.

    This isn't intended to be a step-by-step "how to."

    There are a number of "how to" videos on YouTube that show the process from start to finish.

    This is just some lessons-learned that might help.

    First, go to Home Depot, Lowes, or your favorite hardware store and get a cement mixing tub to make life easier.

    I got a large tub, which is about 36"x28" for $12.

    Since the OEM pan doesn't have a drain plug, draining the fluid and dropping the pan is a mess.

    I removed all the bolts on the rear of the pan and along each side of the pan then loosened the three bolts on the front of the pan, but left them installed.

    Then, slowly break the seal on the rear, starting at the corner of the pan, and drain as much fluid as you can by slowly working that corner loose.

    Once the flow slows down, work your way along the back edge, breaking it loose slowly.



    Once the old valve body is out, I took the opportunity to clean around the solenoid pack port.

    As you can see from this photo, that port leads straight into the transmission, so dirt and crud could easily find it's way into the transmission as you're fooling around with the valve body.



    Assuming you're following everyone else's advice and doing this install with your truck in PARK. and make sure the TRS plate on your new valve body is slid all the way to the rear position.

    Chances are, your builder shipped it with the TRS plate pushed all the way forward.

    Make sure you slide it all the way back to the last notch, so the slot in the TRS plate matches up with the dowel pin on the shifter lever in the transmission.

    As you're pushing the new valve body into place, take care to make sure the shift lever is settling into the TRS plate notch and not binding up somewhere.

    Before you button up your transmission and refill it, hop in the truck and make sure you can move the gear selector through the P-R-N-D range normally.



    Lastly, you can fashion a spill-proof funnel for refilling the trans by using a long neck funnel and some 1/2" ID clear tubing.

    I had the tubing leftover from doing an ATF exchange on our Volvo S40.

    It slides into the 68RFE dip stick perfectly, so I could rest the funnel at an angle that allowed me to fill the trans with no drips or spills.





    Now, in conjunction with the valve body swap, I installed a PPE deep transmission pan with an extra ~3-quart capacity.

    With the valve body, 2 new filters, and a deep pan, I ended up needing 10 3/4 quarts of ATF to fill to the proper level.

    If you're re-using the OEM pan, I'd recommend refilling with about 6 1/2 quarts, then starting the truck and topping off from there, so you don't overfill.

    That's all I can think of for now.

    If you have any tips/tricks of your own to add, drop them in this thread to make everyone's life easier.
    I know this is an old thread, but thanks for the write-up and pictures.

    I’m sure it will help other DIY folks.


    2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

    2016 RAM 3500 4x4 Laramie Crew Cab
    Cummins,G56, Rough Country level, Morimoto LED fog lights, LED headlights, Lund Attitude Steps sprayed with Line-X, DRL's Activated, 35x12.50R18 Falken Wildpeak ATW3, Fuel Vapor Wheels Matte Black w/Dark Tint, A.R.E. Truck cap and swing boxes

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  10. Top Of Page | #6
    Rambling Rump Ranger! SyN's Avatar

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    Re: Tips & Tricks For Your 68RFE Valve Body Swap

    @watersupply189 - I agree 100%!

    2017 Bighorn (Delmonico Red & Chrome) CC-HD2500-4WD-6.7L-3:42w/Anti-Spin
    Oil: -SHELL- Rotella T6 5W-40 & T5 15W-40 combo w/LF16035
    68RFE/BW44-46/Power Steering: -Red Line- C+ ATF
    Frontend & Rearend: -Red Line- SAE GL-5 75W-90NS
    Many Small Mods: Interior & Exterior
    Mileage: 28,541

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  12. Top Of Page | #7
    ricky_bobby's Avatar

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    Re: Tips & Tricks For Your 68RFE Valve Body Swap

    My tips from this weekend.

    1) Using an OEM gasket and steel OEM-type pan (Dorman), I did strip 2 pan holes out.

    Yes, my torque wrench was calibrated, and I even dropped it to 100 in-lbs.

    My shop told me the 68RFE cases are made of pot metal Chinesium junk, so it does happen.

    I got the bolt snugged up after the repair just with a 1/4 ratchet, no torque wrench.

    We aren't fastening to billet aluminum, so go easy on the bolts, folks; this is also why the deep pan makers use Allen cap screws and send an Allen wrench with their kits, so you can get it snug enough not to have leaks.

    2) Make sure you check the fork is engaged in the PRND plate notch (you can snake a camera up to snap a pic; its almost impossible to see without a mirror).

    Mine wasn't (I was an idiot and left the plate all the way forward when installing), so I was glad to have caught it.

    3) The concrete mixing tub and drilling a 1/4" pilot hole to drain the stock pan are both genius ideas, and I only got about 2 drops of ATF on my garage floor in total.

    I hope this helps!


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  14. Top Of Page | #8
    NateB2316's Avatar

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    Re: Tips & Tricks For Your 68RFE Valve Body Swap

    Quote Originally Posted by ricky_bobby View Post
    My tips from this weekend.

    1) Using an OEM gasket and steel OEM-type pan (Dorman), I did strip 2 pan holes out.

    Yes, my torque wrench was calibrated, and I even dropped it to 100 in-lbs.

    My shop told me the 68RFE cases are made of pot metal Chinesium junk, so it does happen.

    I got the bolt snugged up after the repair just with a 1/4 ratchet, no torque wrench.

    We aren't fastening to billet aluminum, so go easy on the bolts, folks; this is also why the deep pan makers use Allen cap screws and send an Allen wrench with their kits, so you can get it snug enough not to have leaks.

    2) Make sure you check the fork is engaged in the PRND plate notch (you can snake a camera up to snap a pic; its almost impossible to see without a mirror).

    Mine wasn't (I was an idiot and left the plate all the way forward when installing), so I was glad to have caught it.

    3) The concrete mixing tub and drilling a 1/4" pilot hole to drain the stock pan are both genius ideas, and I only got about 2 drops of ATF on my garage floor in total.

    I hope this helps!
    @ricky_bobby, getting ready to do the same thing.

    Revmac included a printout with install options, stock, or non-stock (tuned).

    Which did you choose?

    I figured I would run the trans tune after the work is done and before starting, then run the re-learn with Alpha OBD.

    I was wondering if running the re-learn will wipe out the trans tune and if I should do that after; any advice?


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  16. Top Of Page | #9
    Permanent Vacation Chrisn162001's Avatar

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    Re: Tips & Tricks For Your 68RFE Valve Body Swap

    Quote Originally Posted by NateB2316 View Post
    @ricky_bobby, getting ready to do the same thing.

    Revmac included a printout with install options, stock, or non-stock (tuned).

    Which did you choose?

    I figured I would run the trans tune after the work is done and before starting, then run the relearn with Alpha OBD.

    I was wondering if running the relearn will wipe out the trans tune and if I should do that after; any advice?
    Are you talking about setting the valve body up for tuned vs. untuned by removing the screw in the billet channel plate?

    I’ve talked to other builders, and I started setting up all my valve bodies for high pressure if the customer is going to tune it at some point, even if not immediately.

    It doesn’t hurt the transmission to set them up that way, even if running stock pressure.

    The only thing I’ve seen is slightly less pressure while in reverse, less than a 10 psi difference from what I’ve seen so far.

    Relearn won’t erase the tune.

    Flash the tune, then do the relearn with Alfa.


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  18. Top Of Page | #10
    NateB2316's Avatar

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    Re: Tips & Tricks For Your 68RFE Valve Body Swap

    Quote Originally Posted by Chrisn162001 View Post
    Are you talking about setting the valve body up for tuned vs. untuned by removing the screw in the billet channel plate?

    I’ve talked to other builders, and I started setting up all my valve bodies for high pressure if the customer is going to tune it at some point, even if not immediately.

    It doesn’t hurt the transmission to set them up that way, even if running stock pressure.

    The only thing I’ve seen is slightly less pressure while in reverse, less than a 10 psi difference from what I’ve seen so far.

    Relearn won’t erase the tune.

    Flash the tune, then do the relearn with Alfa.
    Awesome, thanks!

    I love this forum.

    Yes, I was referring to the Torx screw.

    I have two options on my tuner; I can go stock, up to 185 max or 225.

    Hesitant on 225.


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