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Thread: Draining and Filling Dual Radiator Setup

  1. Top Of Page | #1
    Bubblehead's Avatar

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    Draining and Filling Dual Radiator Setup

    I had some free time for the Corona break so I decided to change the "Y" fittings on my dual radiator setup.

    I looked for posts on drain location for the dual radiator setup and found nothing that matched my truck.

    Here is what I found on my truck (2014 Ram 2500) and it worked out well with little to no mess.

    The drain for my truck was located near the passenger front tow hook.

    A 3/8 allen fits in the center of the plug to unscrew, I used a cut off allen and a ratcheting wrench for the job. To tight for a ratchet and socket.

    Below is a picture of the drain, the bolt on the left is the tow hook.

    Other photo is the 3/8 allen piece used with wrench.





    I used some tubing and a rubber 90 degree fitting I had from one of those cheap brake bleed kits.



    I pushed the rubber fitting onto the drain and ran the tubing out the front into a bucket.

    Ran it through a paint filter since I was going to reuse it.





    There is only one drain for both radiators. It took about 15 minutes to drain but there was no mess, just a few drips until I got the valve all the way open.

    It drains the system completely with the exception of the water pump and common low areas.

    I drained a little over 5 gallons so most came out.

    After the work is done you need to use a vacuum kit to refill.

    My truck does not have a radiator cap, only the reservoir.

    I purchased the Airlift system which seals on the reservoir (or radiator cap if you have one) and creates a vacuum using shop air. Pull the system to 25 inches of vacuum and check for it to hold for 20-30 seconds.

    The hoses collapse under vacuum.

    If it holds you have no leaks.

    During this process I have the ignition switch on with the heater on in case there are any dampers restricting flow into the heater core. It only takes 30-50 seconds to pull 25 inches of vacuum.

    Shut the ball valve on the Airlift (or equivalent system), disconnect shop air and connect the filler hose with your bucket of coolant.

    Open the ball valve and the vacuum sucks the coolant back into the system.

    The vacuum opens the thermostat so there are no air pockets in the system.

    This is the preferred method for filling this setup.

    Well worth the investment.

    Below is a picture showing the Airlift with the filler hose sucking in coolant.



    Hope this helps someone down the road.

    2014 Ram 2500 Crew Cab, MM3 with DRD Tune, Pusher Intake and coolant bypass, Method Race rims, Luverne Grip Steps, Kussmaul Auto Eject, Firestone Ride Rite Air Bags, Uniden Bearcat 980SS

  2. Top Of Page | #2
    Bubblehead's Avatar

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    Re: Draining and Filling Dual Radiator Setup

    Forgot to mention, make sure you plug the overflow drain on the reservoir or the system will not draw a vacuum. I connected a 3/8 hose to the drain and pinched it off.


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  4. Top Of Page | #3
    TexNeck's Avatar

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    Re: Draining and Filling Dual Radiator Setup

    Quote Originally Posted by Bubblehead View Post
    Forgot to mention, make sure you plug the overflow drain on the reservoir or the system will not draw a vacuum. I connected a 3/8 hose to the drain and pinched it off.
    Nice write up! I did the cut and spill method and top off for mine. Did you replace with billet piece?

    2013 Ram 2500
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  5. Top Of Page | #4
    I WILL STAND! AK Bob's Avatar

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    Re: Draining and Filling Dual Radiator Setup

    Quote Originally Posted by Bubblehead View Post
    I had some free time for the Corona break so I decided to change the "Y" fittings on my dual radiator setup.

    I looked for posts on drain location for the dual radiator setup and found nothing that matched my truck.

    Here is what I found on my truck (2014 Ram 2500) and it worked out well with little to no mess.

    The drain for my truck was located near the passenger front tow hook.

    A 3/8 allen fits in the center of the plug to unscrew, I used a cut off allen and a ratcheting wrench for the job. To tight for a ratchet and socket.

    Below is a picture of the drain, the bolt on the left is the tow hook.

    Other photo is the 3/8 allen piece used with wrench.





    I used some tubing and a rubber 90 degree fitting I had from one of those cheap brake bleed kits.



    I pushed the rubber fitting onto the drain and ran the tubing out the front into a bucket.

    Ran it through a paint filter since I was going to reuse it.





    There is only one drain for both radiators. It took about 15 minutes to drain but there was no mess, just a few drips until I got the valve all the way open.

    It drains the system completely with the exception of the water pump and common low areas.

    I drained a little over 5 gallons so most came out.

    After the work is done you need to use a vacuum kit to refill.

    My truck does not have a radiator cap, only the reservoir.

    I purchased the Airlift system which seals on the reservoir (or radiator cap if you have one) and creates a vacuum using shop air. Pull the system to 25 inches of vacuum and check for it to hold for 20-30 seconds.

    The hoses collapse under vacuum.

    If it holds you have no leaks.

    During this process I have the ignition switch on with the heater on in case there are any dampers restricting flow into the heater core. It only takes 30-50 seconds to pull 25 inches of vacuum.

    Shut the ball valve on the Airlift (or equivalent system), disconnect shop air and connect the filler hose with your bucket of coolant.

    Open the ball valve and the vacuum sucks the coolant back into the system.

    The vacuum opens the thermostat so there are no air pockets in the system.

    This is the preferred method for filling this setup.

    Well worth the investment.

    Below is a picture showing the Airlift with the filler hose sucking in coolant.



    Hope this helps someone down the road.
    Thanks, nice write up and good information for your 2500.

    Just to avoid any confusion I would like to note that there is a difference in the radiator drain location on a (2014 3500).
    The drain valve on the dual radiator 3500 is located on the driver’s side and is best accessible by removing the front grille.

    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.

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  7. Top Of Page | #5
    Bubblehead's Avatar

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    Re: Draining and Filling Dual Radiator Setup

    Quote Originally Posted by TexNeck View Post
    Nice write up! I did the cut and spill method and top off for mine. Did you replace with billet piece?
    Yes sir, replaced the lower and upper with billet Y

    2014 Ram 2500 Crew Cab, MM3 with DRD Tune, Pusher Intake and coolant bypass, Method Race rims, Luverne Grip Steps, Kussmaul Auto Eject, Firestone Ride Rite Air Bags, Uniden Bearcat 980SS

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  9. Top Of Page | #6
    Bubblehead's Avatar

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    Re: Draining and Filling Dual Radiator Setup

    Quote Originally Posted by AK Bob View Post
    Thanks, nice write up and good information for your 2500.

    Just to avoid any confusion I would like to note that there is a difference in the radiator drain location on a (2014 3500).
    The drain valve on the dual radiator 3500 is located on the driver’s side and is best accessible by removing the front grille.
    Thanks for the clarification.

    It is interesting how Ram changed things up on similar vehicles.

    Maybe because you have the Aisin transmission.

    I wonder if a 3500 with 68RFE has the drain in same location as mine. Maybe someone can chime in.

    2014 Ram 2500 Crew Cab, MM3 with DRD Tune, Pusher Intake and coolant bypass, Method Race rims, Luverne Grip Steps, Kussmaul Auto Eject, Firestone Ride Rite Air Bags, Uniden Bearcat 980SS

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  11. Top Of Page | #7
    I WILL STAND! AK Bob's Avatar

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    Re: Draining and Filling Dual Radiator Setup

    Quote Originally Posted by Bubblehead View Post
    Thanks for the clarification.

    It is interesting how Ram changed things up on similar vehicles.

    Maybe because you have the Aisin transmission.

    I wonder if a 3500 with 68RFE has the drain in same location as mine. Maybe someone can chime in.
    Great point, I am curious too.

    Hopefully someone with a 3500 that has a 68RFE with dual radiators will confirm.


    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.

  12. Top Of Page | #8
    GraveyBoat's Avatar

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    Re: Draining and Filling Dual Radiator Setup

    The drain on my '13 3500 68RFE is on the driver's side as well.

    My plastic upper plastic Y failed, went billet as well.

    2013 3500 SRW, Mm3, DRD Tunes, Kevlar Paint

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