Alfa OBD.
Sent from my VOG-L09 using Tapatalk
Alfa OBD.
Sent from my VOG-L09 using Tapatalk
So, in your post you state that you have it kick on 4 hours prior to you leaving in the morning, is there anything "bad" that can happen for leaving it plugged in directly all the time?
Is there only a set amount of time you should plug in prior to driving?
Should you only use this if the temp falls below a "certain" temp and what is that temp?
Definitely like your setup, and I think I will end up doing something similar.
I already have the plug adapter, but didn't really know where to put it, now I have a good idea... thanks!
How did you plug the tender and the heater into a single plug?
Did you put another adapter on the backside?
V/R,
Larry
(Gezyon)
Thanks for your question Larry. If your truck is parked outside It’s generally recommend to plug in your engine block heater at 20*F and colder. The amount of time to warm the engine sufficiently is dependent on the actual ambient temperature. You can plug your truck in all night it won’t hurt anything except you may be paying for unnecessary electrical consumption. Through trial and error I have found that 4 hours prior to departure seems to works great for my truck and wallet. To connect my block heater and battery charger l have installed a three way adapter on the truck that plugs into the back side of the bumper mounted receptacle.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.
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2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
Awesome.
Thanks for the insight on the 3 way adapter.
I like the idea of doing something similar with the battery tender under the hood, and I think that if it is plugged in when sitting, the tender being on about 4 hours a day as well with the heater should be sufficient.
I have found that starting the truck while plugged in even around freezing here starts up about 25-30 seconds faster than not having it plugged in.
Thanks again.
Good Info Bob!
2017 Bighorn (Delmonico Red & Chrome) CC-HD2500-4WD-6.7L-3:42w/Anti-Spin
Oil: -SHELL- Rotella T6 5W-40 & T5 15W-40 combo w/LF16035
68RFE/BW44-46/Power Steering: -Red Line- C+ ATF
Frontend & Rearend: -Red Line- SAE GL-5 75W-90NS
Many Small Mods: Interior & Exterior
Mileage: 28,541
Shouldn't need one.
If you do, you have another issue going on.
Test your batteries, make sure to unhook them and do it independently to get an accurate test.
Diesel Master Tech Certified - ICML Machinery Lube Certified
2002 QCLB 2500 5.9 HO NV5600 = Ranch truck with CM Flatbed, DPS Exh/Int Manifolds, Boost Elbow
2018 CCLB 2500 ST 6.7 G56 = Glacier intake manifold & horn, Flo-pro 4" SS, MM3 with DRD 30hp tune, Valair quiet dual disc clutch, Laramie 18's powder coated black and blackout badges
They also make a port with a splitter built in.
There are a couple of brands on Amazon that make them in single or with a splitter as well as multiple lengths.
I just did the single (installed today) as my truck spends every night in the garage when I'm home.
It's only parked outside when I'm on a trip or at work.
I like the idea of the port, it sucks fishing the cord out of the bumper when it's cold and dark out.
I have a wall mounted tender in the garage for when it's parked for a while.
2011 Ram 3500 SLT, 6.7 Cummins. 4.10 gears 68RFE Transmission. RaceMe Ultra with Warp Tuning by DRD, DDP Hooligan turbo, GDP Air Boss grid delete, S-2 Intake manifold and Mega-Flow TVM Grid Heater. 4 inch superlift lift kit with Bilstein shocks, dual steering stabilizer. 35x12.5x20 Toyo AT3s on black KMC XD795 wheels. Fender flares, N-Fab 6 step nerf bars.Honestly it's just a tow rig...
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