Mine might be a little worse.
It's been pretty warm here (40 above), but it could be the injectors.
Mine might be a little worse.
It's been pretty warm here (40 above), but it could be the injectors.
So the problem has come back.
I hooked up to my camp trailer on Sunday to reorganize a little.
When I backed the camper back into its place, i jumped out to unhook.
I unplugged the trailer and proceeded to Jack the trailer up; that is when my pick-up just died.
I got back in, and after two attempts, it restarted. I quickly finished unhooking and parked it.
Yesterday I checked the wiring harness to the injectors.
They were not Corroded or bent. I cleaned them up for good measure.
I also replaced the fuel filter, just in case. I also cleaned the connection from my mm3 to the obd2.
That connection did have a little bit of chalky stuff on it. I was shocked to see that.
I attached these videos in the hope that they might be of some help.
My actual rail pressure is taking a long time to build so that the truck will fire.
I have a couple of ideas on where to go from here. But I was hoping I could get some input from you guys.
Thanks for any help.
Did you recently do anything to your injectors?
2017 RAM 2500 Big Horn sport appearance package, Auto Level Rear Suspension, MM3 "switch" Fully deleted - tuned by DRD, Fleece Cheetah, Airaid Jr. CAI, 3.5" Banks Monster intake horn, Pusher Boost Tubes, 5" TBE with a Flo~Pro Twister muffler, *** EGR disappear kit, Black Market Performance CAT fuel filter and water separator, Black Market Performance fuel heater, Black Market Performance head studs, AFE deep trans pan, Revmax trans cooler bypass, Revmax HD Valve Body, DPC Low stall converter with billet flywheel, AFE pro series rear diff cover, Amsoil throughout provided by mcsynthetics.myamsoil.com
Nope haven't done any upgrades for almost two years.
Are you still having the issue where you clear the codes on the MM3, and they stay, or has that resolved itself?
I just recently had my die on the drive home after replacing the fan clutch because the wire got pulled through the fan and was laying on the block.
I would clear my codes, and they wouldn't go away, but it was due to the grounded wires.
If you still see this issue, I'm thinking it's not ground but a sensor wire that's grounding out somewhere possibly.
This still has me stumped.
So all the issues with the truck hard to start, long cranking, no backup camera when put into reverse, the right tail light message have all came back.
I charged the batteries and load tested them.
Both checked out well.
Cleaned up ground-checked wires in the fuse box and all fuses.
Nothing seemed to work.
Today I fired it up after two attempts it stayed running.
I gave it 5 or so minutes to run.
I put it in reverse and had a backup camera.
So I proceeded to back out of the drive.
Then the camera went black, and the right tail light message came on.
Two seconds later camera came back on, and the message went away.
Went for a 10-mile trip and no issues.
Any thoughts. (Yes, I still have issues clearing codes.)
Look for wires that may have the insulation worn through.
It really sounds like a wire is intermittently grounding out, causing these issues.
I'm thinking it's got to be in the engine bay where the motor is shaking around.
Try moving the wiring harnesses around until you can either make the problem happen or go away.
What I mean is, if you can't start it, move them around until you can.
Then once it's running and you think you might have it narrowed down, move it again and see if you can make it shut down.
I'm hoping it's a chafed wire that's much easier to find than a broken wire.
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