Truck Won't Stay Running, Long Cranking with Multiple Attempts

[F350Cummins]

With the cold weather this really exposes a weak or an exposed area in the electrical system.

The main battery ground if I remember is right under the pass side battery on the fender well if I remember correctly. water, grime etc then comes freezing weather.

Start at the ECM and inspect clean, all main battery line branches. and think in the last 5-6 months did you have any service or work done on truck.

Check that area if so for any clipped, tore or exposed. did you by chance notice when you tried to start that you would get the grid heater symbol on dash?

Did you notice when it did start the volts dipped down (during the grid heaters coming on)?

I know many of the symptoms seem to be fuel/injector related, but with these newer truck they rely so much on the ECU and PCM that I feel you need to look here, and what I quoted from @DIESELWRKS is right on.

I have seen the fuse-box itself fail in such a way that weird and intermittent stuff happens.

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[Junior48]

So I got a little time today and it was really nice and warm (50 degrees) so I started tracking down the main negative battery lines and grounds.

I checked the main ground that DIESELWRKS talked about.

I checked for tightness to the block and for any abrasions, nicks, cuts ect. Looked to be in pretty good shape.

The outer protective sheath was a little worn from sitting on the frame but no exposed wire.

I checked other grounds as well.

Figure I would give it a try.

This time it cranked around 6 times and fired.

So I let it run for about 10 minutes.

This time when I pulled out of the drive it never died.

Ended up taking it on a 12 mile road test and it seems back to normal.

Any thoughts?

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[AK Bob]

Your issues may be temperature related.

While the warmer temperatures prevail with the truck idling I would wiggle/giggle electrical connections and harness starting at the fuse box to see if the engine shuts down.


2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.

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[Junior48]

I'll give it a try when I get home on Sunday.

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[Junior48]

Didn't get home till later on Sunday so never go to try AKBOBs test.

So yesterday I had taken the truck to town twice (20 miles round trip).

Needed to head in for a 3 time and the problem had came back.

But this time I did notice some things I hope might help.

Truck started normal, once put in reverse my bank up camera did not come on stayed a black screen.

The warning did come on it to check surrounding.

And I also got a right tail light message on my display.

Fun electrical ghost to hunt.

Any thoughts?

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[AK Bob]

Thanks for the update at least now you know it’s electrical.

The best advice I can give you is to try to duplicate the issue by moving (wiggle/giggle)wires and connections while checking for damage or corrosion on both hot wires and grounds.

I would still start at the fuse box and grounding junctions.

Then the right tail light assembly and associated wiring.

Hopefully you will find it or perhaps someone else will have a better approach.


2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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[Junior48]

Still felling pretty frustrated.

Today I fired the truck up no problems.

I was going to start the test from AK Bob.

Put the truck in reverse to pull it into the garage. Back up camera came on and everything seemed back to normal, but I pulled it into the garage a bit and started to wiggle wires. I couldn't get anything to replicate. So I shut the truck down and cleaned all the grounds. Cleaned all I could find in the break downs I had.

Went to back out of the garage and no back up camera so I new it was back. Yep put it in park and then died shortly after. Unplugged the MM3 and checked all connections.

I got looking at my original post, and when I said deleted I should have said the exhaust.

I have not deleted the EGR.

Don't know if that makes a huge difference or not with what it's doing.

All the connections in the new tail light look good. It was only the lens that got broken.

Every time I go to clear the codes on the MM3 it says they are cleared but there still there.

So I still get the 2509 and the high rail pressure code from unplugging the FCA.

Any ideas?

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[TexNeck]

I would pull the PCM harness and clean connection there as well.

There are two main harnesses which are ECM and PCM. I’m thinking that the PCM is not communicating the correct gear/parameters which is why no backup camera and ECM is trying to compensate for PCM false info which is causing truck to shut down.

There should be a manual somewhere on the forum here to show PCM harness location.

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[AK Bob]

Good suggestion @TexNeck.

@Junior48 you can download the service manual if you are a lifetime member here.

2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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[Junior48]

Pulled both harnesses off last night. Each one looked great.

Both sides looked clean and intact.

I did borrow our small contact cleaning kit from work.

In my mind I thought they would be deutz pins.

Didn't know they were small flat blades.

I went through and cleaned what I could with the kit.

Then sprayed it out with electrical contact cleaner.

No change, still will start but once put in reverse no camera.

So I put it back in park and under a minute it dies.

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