HELP! Water in oil?

[Branden Johnson]

If you are unsure as to the fluid source, make sure the coolant is up to snuff, not overly watered down.

Second, do another oil change. You may have had synthetic 5W40 in before and if there was still some in the motor during your change then it will thin the oil a bit.

Could have been a qt or 2 hiding in the motor.

The water is a concern, but the puff of smoke is from the delete in the cold and the smoke is from you driving before warm.

Let it warm up to about 100 before you start out on a cold day and it should be better.

The same goes for the puff, mine did that in the beginning too, but not anymore.

Try adding a good cleaner/additive to the fuel and check the rear filter for water.

2013 2500 6.7 cummins crew cab. white and stock as can be
If it were not for bad luck I would have no luck at all.

using Tapatalk

Good idea on the coolant. I will check that. Although, if still full, I'm either not leaking or have such a miniscule leak that it's just weeping (dripping) into the crank. Not sure if this is possible? I did my second oil change when I got the sample for Black stone labs. My initial one was at 5k miles. My second one was at 1,800 miles. Third batch of oil in the truck now and still looks green, thin and watery. Delo oil from the carton is the normal transparent light gold color

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[Branden Johnson]

Tracked my oil temps on the way to work today. I have about a 35-40 min. commute total with a 5 min. stop in between to drop off my kids at daycare. oil temps got up to the 185 range after about 12-15 min. and got as high as 199 degrees when I was pulling into work.

It was between 195 and 199 for the last 10 min. of the drive.

I would think this would be high enough for long enough to burn off any condensation in the oil.

Anyone think I'm just not driving it for long enough and need to run it longer and harder?

I've talked to guys with shorter commutes than mine with no issues so puzzled to say the least.

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[SyN]

I personally would do 2 or 3 more oil changes with a cheaper oil - say Delo or Rotella 15W-40.
No use spending $24-26 a gal. (Change filter as well)

Take each OCI out to maybe 1K miles. Get her on the highway as much as possible for at least 30min.
There possibly / some how a pocket of condensate within the motor - in this case - heat is your best friend.

I would defenitly replace the CCV - crank case filter if you know it has never been replaced.

Need to flush that crap out some how/way.
I honestly don't have a honest answer for you - just thinking out loud.

not to create a crap storm - but this is what I have always read.
https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.co...under-oil-cap/

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[cwendel]

Tracked my oil temps on the way to work today. I have about a 35-40 min. commute total with a 5 min. stop in between to drop off my kids at daycare. oil temps got up to the 185 range after about 12-15 min. and got as high as 199 degrees when I was pulling into work.

It was between 195 and 199 for the last 10 min. of the drive.

I would think this would be high enough for long enough to burn off any condensation in the oil.

Anyone think I'm just not driving it for long enough and need to run it longer and harder?

I've talked to guys with shorter commutes than mine with no issues so puzzled to say the least.

Those temps on the dash are not real. The compute calculates oil temps and pressure.

There may have also been some sort of additive that was put in the oil to either quiet it down or a dye to chase a leak. Now, if you were leaking into the crank, then the water would show on the dipstick after the truck sits overnight. You would see a line for the difference.

I would also check the breather filter. I have owned a number of old cars and have seen the residue on the inside of the cap. If the crank breather is not working right, it will not vent the crankcase and you can get excess condensation build up.

The worst case is, you have a bad head gasket that popped between cylinders and only occasionally leaks on you. This can happen as the factory puts sealer in the block from the start. That small leak would be enough to get in the oil.

With all this, I am leaning toward a fuel leak from either an injector or a fuel tube. That is really the only type of fluid that has that color to it and would not cause your oil to become a milkshake.


2013 2500 6.7 cummins crew cab. white and stock as can be
If it were not for bad luck I would have no luck at all.

using Tapatalk

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[Branden Johnson]

Those temps on the dash are not real. The compute calculates oil temps and pressure.

There may have also been some sort of additive that was put in the oil to either quiet it down or a dye to chase a leak. Now, if you were leaking into the crank, then the water would show on the dipstick after the truck sits overnight. You would see a line for the difference.

I would also check the breather filter. I have owned a number of old cars and have seen the residue on the inside of the cap. If the crank breather is not working right, it will not vent the crankcase and you can get excess condensation build up.

The worst case is, you have a bad head gasket that popped between cylinders and only occasionally leaks on you. This can happen as the factory puts sealer in the block from the start. That small leak would be enough to get in the oil.

With all this, I am leaning toward a fuel leak from either an injector or a fuel tube. That is really the only type of fluid that has that color to it and would not cause your oil to become a milkshake.


2013 2500 6.7 cummins crew cab. white and stock as can be
If it were not for bad luck I would have no luck at all.

using Tapatalk

But wouldn't the flash point test by the lab for residual fuel come back positive if this were the case? Also, milky white substance on the bottom of the filler cap points to water condensation.. I'm thinking head gasket, maybe. But still strange the lab wouldn't catch it. Also, green tint to the oil seems abnormal from what most people report. No fuel smell to the oil either..

Thanks for the info on the oil temp. Didn't know that

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[Branden Johnson]

I personally would do 2 or 3 more oil changes with a cheaper oil - say Delo or Rotella 15W-40.
No use spending $24-26 a gal. (Change filter as well)

Take each OCI out to maybe 1K miles. Get her on the highway as much as possible for at least 30min.
There possibly / some how a pocket of condensate within the motor - in this case - heat is your best friend.

I would defenitly replace the CCV - crank case filter if you know it has never been replaced.

Need to flush that crap out some how/way.
I honestly don't have a honest answer for you - just thinking out loud.

not to create a crap storm - but this is what I have always read.
https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.co...under-oil-cap/

Interesting read. Thanks for the link!

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[watersupply189]

You said you really don’t know the history on this truck?

Could it maybe of been a flood vehicle which might explain the moisture and green tint in the oil?


2016 Ram Laramie 3500 (DRD), G56, 6.7, Rough Country Leveling, HID headlights, Morimoto LED fogs plus a whole lot more!

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[Branden Johnson]

You said you really don’t know the history on this truck?

Could it maybe of been a flood vehicle which might explain the moisture and green tint in the oil?


2016 Ram Laramie 3500 (DRD), G56, 6.7, Rough Country Leveling, HID headlights, Morimoto LED fogs plus a whole lot more!

Oh boy, don't tell me that..

Actually thanks, you made me just go pull a Carfax (which, I know, I should have done upon purchasing). It was a WA truck most of its life. I'm the 3rd owner and all service records were dealer completed through the warranty period.

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[watersupply189]

Oh boy, don't tell me that..

Actually thanks, you made me just go pull a Carfax (which, I know, I should have done upon purchasing). It was a WA truck most of its life. I'm the 3rd owner and all service records were dealer completed through the warranty period.

Did it show anything?

I know a lot of people may have 3rd party repairs (cheaper) and a lot of those repair shops don’t report what was done to the vehicle.

Hopefully everything was repaired at a reputable dealership.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500 (DRD), G56, 6.7, Rough Country Leveling, HID headlights, Morimoto LED fogs plus a whole lot more!

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[Branden Johnson]

Did it show anything?

I know a lot of people may have 3rd party repairs (cheaper) and a lot of those repair shops don’t report what was done to the vehicle.

Hopefully everything was repaired at a reputable dealership.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500 (DRD), G56, 6.7, Rough Country Leveling, HID headlights, Morimoto LED fogs plus a whole lot more!

Water pump repair at 60k miles is the only service work shown other than oil changes.

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