17 2500 Turbo and Fuel Upgrades

[rayr87]

Looking to do some upgrades to get around 700-800rwhp. Truck is a 2017 2500 mega cab. Its a daily driver (well sort of I have a work truck that I drive well for work every day so this is an evening run around or when I go on a trip and stuff like that) I tow with maybe 2-3 times a month. Nothing too heavy 14k is usually the heaviest. I was originally looking at doing a pusher compound setup, however I read a few places that once you get around 700hp with compounds there are issues with bending rods. I don’t want to get into switching rods and want everything to be reliable. So now I’m thinking of going with a S467 2^nd gen swap.

Here is currently what is done to the truck:
+ 5” turbo back exhaust
+ Fleece in tank lift pump
+ EGR delete
+ MM3 tuning DRD

I am looking to do upgrades kinda in phases with maybe a few weeks in between. Mostly so I can work on the truck for a day on the weekend or a few evenings and have it back up and running, and not be without it for more than a few days at a time. The order of these can be changed this is just what I had in mind.

Phase 1:
+ Head Studs – 625
+ Valve springs, push rods
+ Injectors – 45%-60% overs
I want to try to do everything inside the head at the same time and want to get the head studs done before I have any issues with the head gasket.

Phase 2:
+ Revmax 850 transmission
+ Fleece coolant bypass

Phase 3:
+ 2^nd gen Swap with S467.7
+ BD Exhaust Brake

Phase 4:
+ 10mm CP3

I think that’s it unless I am missing something. I can change any of these “Phases” around if someone thinks something should be done before the other. So here are some questions that I have:
1.) Does everything I said above make sense is there something that anyone thinks would be better components to put together? I’m not 100% set on any of these parts (well besides the ones I have already)
2.) What size injectors would be best for this setup? I was thinking S&S 45% overs.
3.) What stall torque converter? Do I need to get the transmission with the “Revmax Tuning Required”?
4.) I don’t tow a lot but I love the exhaust brake and would like to keep one. Does the BD work with the MM3 through the factory switch?
5.) Is the 10mm CP3 going to be enough or should I go with a 12mm? I was thinking of doing a single instead of duals for simplicity.
6.) When will I need to retune? Can I run the current “Stock” tunes that I have from DRD until I get everything upgraded or am I going to need to retune as I go?

I think that’s it for now. Thanks if you made it through all that and for any suggestions/help.
-Ray

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[Bpbertolacini]

What's the difference at 700hp compounds or 700hp single turbo with not bending rods? Just curious how that works

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[AnOldBiker]

@rayr87
Since your going over 700 hp you might consider a higher output fuel pump and a larger air cleaner.

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[scs210]

Very interested to see where this conversation goes. Lots of dream plans i'd also love to do to my truck one day.

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[rayr87]

I have no idea. I could be mistaken I am far from an expert. I just thought a recalled reading it in a few different places. I think that it's how much torque they can make at a low rpm due to being able to spool so quickly. If it's anything over 700 then maybe I need to set my sights a little lower or plan more upgrades

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[Bpbertolacini]

In all hope not to bend my rods , I like you, am doing a compound set up from pusher, just got the kit in the garage, also grabbed a 10mm fleece CP3 , and ddp 90hp nozzels , I did but the manton valve springs and pushrods to help keep the valves in check. I have a fass lift pump and beans sump already installed with the arp 625's i am hopefully going to achieve 700hp also indo have a steed speed manifold i need to put on before the compounds get installed.

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[Western]

I won't be able to help with everything you need at the moment but I'll help where I can.

So as far as your injectors and CP3 go they need to be done at the same time just about; the stock CP3 won't be able to keep up with the oversized injectors and you can run into cavitation of your injectors causing damage or premature failure. Also something to keep in mind is running dual CP3's is more reliable and efficient because you will split the load of one CP3 into two. Something else to add to this; if you do your fueling upgrades without the turbo you'll be running too rich for the stock turbo; all this being said I know its costly to do everything at one time but its almost the best and only way to go for your goal but you can do other parts first to prepare for this stage which I will cover below.

You have the major components covered which is good but you will need to rework you intake system in order to take full advantage of the upgrades and reach peak efficiency and the lowest spool time. For the intake system you'' need a cold air intake, an upgraded intercooler isn't necessary but it will lower the intake temps their for making more power by having denser air as well as it will outflow the factory inter cooler, lastly you'll need to upgrade your intake horn. You'll need to look into exhaust manifolds too since your doing a second gen swap and some kits don't come with manifolds; now one of the highest flowing manifolds on the market is a steed speed manifold they cost a little bit more but they flow the best at the lowest temp and have an excellent ceremaic coating.

Now you have a long list of parts to look up and start pricing out and Clayton over @DDP can get you taken care of with everything you need; and I'm sure we will have others help where they can as well.

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[Bpbertolacini]

Also this has been quite the out of pocket expense and it's all paid for no credit card. But this is a costly journey so hopefully it doesn't take me into opening up the motor to do rods.

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[Western]

Forgot to answer the question about compounds. So the reason compounds have a tendency to bend rods is they increase the pressure inside the cylinder which puts more pressure on the stock rods which can bend. I know some guys that have run compounds on stock rods no problem but it all depends on how you drive your truck

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[Bpbertolacini]

Forgot to answer the question about compounds. So the reason compounds have a tendency to bend rods is they increase the pressure inside the cylinder which puts more pressure on the stock rods which can bend. I know some guys that have run compounds on stock rods no problem but it all depends on how you drive your truck

Ok this is what I thought, I'm not going to be standing on the pedal from a stop or anything like that but toeing into it on the highway for sure. So if I drive smart and tow when needed I should be fine then.

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