17 2500 Turbo and Fuel Upgrades

[rayr87]

Looking to do some upgrades to get around 700-800rwhp. Truck is a 2017 2500 mega cab. Its a daily driver (well sort of I have a work truck that I drive well for work every day so this is an evening run around or when I go on a trip and stuff like that) I tow with maybe 2-3 times a month. Nothing too heavy 14k is usually the heaviest. I was originally looking at doing a pusher compound setup, however I read a few places that once you get around 700hp with compounds there are issues with bending rods. I don’t want to get into switching rods and want everything to be reliable. So now I’m thinking of going with a S467 2^nd gen swap.

Here is currently what is done to the truck:
+ 5” turbo back exhaust
+ Fleece in tank lift pump
+ EGR delete
+ MM3 tuning DRD

I am looking to do upgrades kinda in phases with maybe a few weeks in between. Mostly so I can work on the truck for a day on the weekend or a few evenings and have it back up and running, and not be without it for more than a few days at a time. The order of these can be changed this is just what I had in mind.

Phase 1:
+ Head Studs – 625
+ Valve springs, push rods
+ Injectors – 45%-60% overs
I want to try to do everything inside the head at the same time and want to get the head studs done before I have any issues with the head gasket.

Phase 2:
+ Revmax 850 transmission
+ Fleece coolant bypass

Phase 3:
+ 2^nd gen Swap with S467.7
+ BD Exhaust Brake

Phase 4:
+ 10mm CP3

I think that’s it unless I am missing something. I can change any of these “Phases” around if someone thinks something should be done before the other. So here are some questions that I have:
1.) Does everything I said above make sense is there something that anyone thinks would be better components to put together? I’m not 100% set on any of these parts (well besides the ones I have already)
2.) What size injectors would be best for this setup? I was thinking S&S 45% overs.
3.) What stall torque converter? Do I need to get the transmission with the “Revmax Tuning Required”?
4.) I don’t tow a lot but I love the exhaust brake and would like to keep one. Does the BD work with the MM3 through the factory switch?
5.) Is the 10mm CP3 going to be enough or should I go with a 12mm? I was thinking of doing a single instead of duals for simplicity.
6.) When will I need to retune? Can I run the current “Stock” tunes that I have from DRD until I get everything upgraded or am I going to need to retune as I go?

I think that’s it for now. Thanks if you made it through all that and for any suggestions/help.
-Ray

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[Bpbertolacini]

What's the difference at 700hp compounds or 700hp single turbo with not bending rods? Just curious how that works

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[rayr87]

I have no idea. I could be mistaken I am far from an expert. I just thought a recalled reading it in a few different places. I think that it's how much torque they can make at a low rpm due to being able to spool so quickly. If it's anything over 700 then maybe I need to set my sights a little lower or plan more upgrades

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[Bpbertolacini]

In all hope not to bend my rods , I like you, am doing a compound set up from pusher, just got the kit in the garage, also grabbed a 10mm fleece CP3 , and ddp 90hp nozzels , I did but the manton valve springs and pushrods to help keep the valves in check. I have a fass lift pump and beans sump already installed with the arp 625's i am hopefully going to achieve 700hp also indo have a steed speed manifold i need to put on before the compounds get installed.

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[Bpbertolacini]

Also this has been quite the out of pocket expense and it's all paid for no credit card. But this is a costly journey so hopefully it doesn't take me into opening up the motor to do rods.

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[AnOldBiker]

@rayr87
Since your going over 700 hp you might consider a higher output fuel pump and a larger air cleaner.

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[scs210]

Very interested to see where this conversation goes. Lots of dream plans i'd also love to do to my truck one day.

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[Western]

I won't be able to help with everything you need at the moment but I'll help where I can.

So as far as your injectors and CP3 go they need to be done at the same time just about; the stock CP3 won't be able to keep up with the oversized injectors and you can run into cavitation of your injectors causing damage or premature failure. Also something to keep in mind is running dual CP3's is more reliable and efficient because you will split the load of one CP3 into two. Something else to add to this; if you do your fueling upgrades without the turbo you'll be running too rich for the stock turbo; all this being said I know its costly to do everything at one time but its almost the best and only way to go for your goal but you can do other parts first to prepare for this stage which I will cover below.

You have the major components covered which is good but you will need to rework you intake system in order to take full advantage of the upgrades and reach peak efficiency and the lowest spool time. For the intake system you'' need a cold air intake, an upgraded intercooler isn't necessary but it will lower the intake temps their for making more power by having denser air as well as it will outflow the factory inter cooler, lastly you'll need to upgrade your intake horn. You'll need to look into exhaust manifolds too since your doing a second gen swap and some kits don't come with manifolds; now one of the highest flowing manifolds on the market is a steed speed manifold they cost a little bit more but they flow the best at the lowest temp and have an excellent ceremaic coating.

Now you have a long list of parts to look up and start pricing out and Clayton over @DDP can get you taken care of with everything you need; and I'm sure we will have others help where they can as well.

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[rayr87]

I won't be able to help with everything you need at the moment but I'll help where I can.

So as far as your injectors and CP3 go they need to be done at the same time just about; the stock CP3 won't be able to keep up with the oversized injectors and you can run into cavitation of your injectors causing damage or premature failure. Also something to keep in mind is running dual CP3's is more reliable and efficient because you will split the load of one CP3 into two. Something else to add to this; if you do your fueling upgrades without the turbo you'll be running too rich for the stock turbo; all this being said I know its costly to do everything at one time but its almost the best and only way to go for your goal but you can do other parts first to prepare for this stage which I will cover below.

You have the major components covered which is good but you will need to rework you intake system in order to take full advantage of the upgrades and reach peak efficiency and the lowest spool time. For the intake system you'' need a cold air intake, an upgraded intercooler isn't necessary but it will lower the intake temps their for making more power by having denser air as well as it will outflow the factory inter cooler, lastly you'll need to upgrade your intake horn. You'll need to look into exhaust manifolds too since your doing a second gen swap and some kits don't come with manifolds; now one of the highest flowing manifolds on the market is a steed speed manifold they cost a little bit more but they flow the best at the lowest temp and have an excellent ceremaic coating.

Now you have a long list of parts to look up and start pricing out and Clayton over @DDP can get you taken care of with everything you need; and I'm sure we will have others help where they can as well.

Western thanks for the information. I guess a few things i forgot. I do have a banks inter cooler and 3.5" air horn i just don't have them installed yet.

My thoughts were to go with a 2nd gen swap kit. I have been eyeing the Fleece because it comes with the everything i would need and has the nice coolant tank. Also looking at the steed speed cause not only does it flow the best but it is just plan sexy.

Do you think the 45%/90hp injectors would be a good choice for either the 467 or pusher compounds? Iw ant something big enough but also don't want to be smoking a bunch

So you think i would be further ahead to do with the dual CP3's then? Something like this:
https://cppdiesel.com/fleece-perform...e-performance/
And leave my stocker.

I am still torn between the compounds and the 467. On one hand i like the simplicity of the single and getting rid of the VGT turbo so I wouldn't have to worry about it. Then again i have over 115k on my work truck (15 2500 all stock) and haven't had any issues with it. I guess the biggest thing that scared me away from the compounds was when i read about people bending rods.

I guess i'm looking for the most reliable setup possible (I know when your expecting double the HP out of anything the reliability goes down).

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[TexNeck]

I wouldn’t worry so much about bending a rod from just compounds, from what I’ve seen it’s the high RPMs making power/racing that will push them too far (literally) LOL. This happens with singles or compounds.

Like the others have stated there will always be a trade off/upgrade needed to keep up with the prior one. The most instant power you will feel would be if you went with your chargers first. Compounds or a 67 can be run on stock fuel with proper tuning. Who are you using for your files?

I may have missed it but what elevation are you? Compounds are just plain cool and give you great power all the way through the RPM band. If you have elevation to deal with I would say go with the compounds given you tow decent weight.

With good tuning the 6.7s can spin the 67mm chargers with minimum lag, it should still light about 1600 rpm for you. There is something to be said about the simplicity of a single charger vs compounds.

Myself or any of us here at Dudes Diesel would be happy to answer any questions and provide you with your wants and needs for the build!

Be sure to keep everyone posted regardless of how things go!

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