Thanks Thanks:  8
Likes Likes:  17
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: Upgrading my 2018 68RFE

  1. Top Of Page | #1
    Yamahamod's Avatar

    User Info Menu

    Question Upgrading my 2018 68RFE

    Is there anything I should do to my transmission for longevity or preventative? I'd kinda like to plan ahead for when I do my first fluid change on her.

    2018 Ram 3500 longbed, 68RFE, 35" tires on 3.42 gears, 22,000 miles. Usually haul 1500 pounds in the back in the winter and a 4,400 pound truck camper in the summer.
    I usually run a 90 hp tune in the winter and just the 30hp in the summer with the camper.

    Does anyone know what the line pressure is set to with DRD transmission tuning?

    Here's a webpage of parts I was interested in. I'm not looking to spend a ton of money here unless she gives out but I'm pretty easy on truck.
    https://www.xtremediesel.com/dodge-2...-overhaul-kits

    I'm fully aware of Valair Performance clutches.
    http://www.valairinc.com/performance...s%20Parts.html


  2. Top Of Page | #2
    timshooter40's Avatar

    User Info Menu

    Re: Upgrading my Tranny input

    Is this your list you selected? If it is you have two billet input shafts selected. I would add a deep ATS trans pan. Let's ask @cummingsdieselfreak. He can steer you right on parts.

    2016 Ram 2500 CCSB 4X4 ,Cat fuel filter delete with water seperator. Thuren suspension
    with Fox IFP shocks, thuren sway bar, rear track bar and front track bar, Warn 12k winch , custom winch mount, REVMAX trans pan,HD valve body and thermal bypas. Leer truck topper,Exotic head studs, Engine enhancements by the cummins whisper.

  3. Top Of Page | #3
    Crshanta's Avatar

    User Info Menu

    Re: Upgrading my Tranny input

    I believe Ray sets a stock valve body to 175. Best way to confirm is to give him a call or tag him.

    All information I have read over the past couple of months is the 68RFE the weak links are valve body and lack of surface area for clutches. Clutch smoking is partially related to valve body pressure leakage. So in theory a valve body will address line pressure and help clamping force.

    My plan was to get a valve body, thermal bypass and then a lower stall torque converter. Then call it a day until trans is smoked or truck body rusts off.

    If you do get a valve body you will be able to run higher line pressure at 225. To get that pressure, a tune adjustment is required or a tuneless valve body. There is some debate on if the pump can maintain it (suncoast literature) and not bleed off. I plan on trending trans pressure and if it bleeds off, replace the pump at the same time as the converter.

    Is your truck a dually? What truck camper do you have that weights +4K?, Bigfoot or one with a slide?

    2018 srw 3500

  4. Thanks timshooter40, Yamahamod thanked for this post
    Likes timshooter40, Yamahamod liked this post
  5. Top Of Page | #4
    TH-64's Avatar

    User Info Menu

    Re: Upgrading my Tranny input

    Skip the BD Protect68 kit and go with an upgraded valve body. I had the separator plate for a while but ended up with cross leak codes. Using a RevMax valve body now and very happy with it. I asked Ray for 250 psi tuning on mine.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

    2012 CCSB Saddle Brown Pearl... DRD tuned

  6. Thanks timshooter40, Yamahamod, Jaydoe thanked for this post
  7. Top Of Page | #5
    Yamahamod's Avatar

    User Info Menu

    Re: Upgrading my Tranny input

    Quote Originally Posted by Crshanta View Post
    I believe Ray sets a stock valve body to 175. Best way to confirm is to give him a call or tag him.

    All information I have read over the past couple of months is the 68RFE the weak links are valve body and lack of surface area for clutches. Clutch smoking is partially related to valve body pressure leakage. So in theory a valve body will address line pressure and help clamping force.

    My plan was to get a valve body, thermal bypass and then a lower stall torque converter. Then call it a day until trans is smoked or truck body rusts off.

    If you do get a valve body you will be able to run higher line pressure at 225. To get that pressure, a tune adjustment is required or a tuneless valve body. There is some debate on if the pump can maintain it (suncoast literature) and not bleed off. I plan on trending trans pressure and if it bleeds off, replace the pump at the same time as the converter.

    Is your truck a dually? What truck camper do you have that weights +4K?, Bigfoot or one with a slide?
    I don't have a dually. The camper is a Adventurer 910DB. Yes it has one slide. The dry weight is around 3400 so I'm guessing I'm around the max payload of 4400 fully loaded. I have airbags and these little pieces that go between the overload springs and spring pack. I forget the name of them. I read through the other thread about 68RFE Valve body swap. I just don't know where to go with this thing. Don't want to put too much money into her but If I can help with the longevity and reliability of the tranny I'm all game.


  8. Likes timshooter40 liked this post
  9. Top Of Page | #6
    Yamahamod's Avatar

    User Info Menu

    Re: Upgrading my Tranny input

    Quote Originally Posted by TH-64 View Post
    Skip the BD Protect68 kit and go with an upgraded valve body. I had the separator plate for a while but ended up with cross leak codes. Using a RevMax valve body now and very happy with it. I asked Ray for 250 psi tuning on mine.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

    Okay, Okay, thanks for the input. Just curious what everyone is doing and how well it's worked. Thanks


  10. Likes timshooter40 liked this post
  11. Top Of Page | #7
    Yamahamod's Avatar

    User Info Menu

    Re: Upgrading my 2018 68RFE

    Found some good value in this:



    If you have a 6.7L Cummins with a 68RFE, a major valve body fix is getting ready to hit the market.

    Frank from Revmax Converters tells us about their patent-pending billet valve body.

    This valve body fixes and changes the reliability and capability 68RFE owners can have.

    He also tells us about some other 68RFE upgrades you won’t find anywhere else!


  12. Likes Mdavlee, SyN liked this post
  13. Top Of Page | #8
    Permanent Vacation Chrisn162001's Avatar

    User Info Menu

    Re: Upgrading my 2018 68RFE

    I built my trans with all the stuff RevMax puts in their 850 build.

    I called RevMax yesterday and ordered their new billet input hub.

    I asked about the billet channel plate and their new billet accumulators.

    They told me their regular valve body (which I already have) is more than adequate and that they re-released it since others introduced their own billet channel plate.

    I was ready to spend the money and they said I was more than fine with what I got.

    Now their new billet valve body idk but I doubt it’s even close to being needed on half the trucks on the road.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


  14. Thanks Yamahamod, JSSmoke1074 thanked for this post
    Likes Yamahamod, Mdavlee, JSSmoke1074 liked this post
  15. Top Of Page | #9
    ZeroSignal's Avatar

    User Info Menu

    Re: Upgrading my 2018 68RFE

    I have a 2018 with 24,000 miles.

    It got the full DRD treatment at 6,000 miles.

    Just ordered a custom valve body from a reputable builder.

    Do your homework, and find a brand/builder you trust.

    There are lots of options out there.

    Ray sets the line pressure at 170psi for a stock 68RFE.

    You'll see spikes during shifts when the fluid is getting tossed around, but 160-170 is all she'll hold when it counts.

    With an upgraded valvebody (e.g. separator plate, accumulator plate, accumulator pistons, SSV, and/or billet channel plate) Ray can tune you for up to 225psi.

    That helps reduce clutch slippage which is important for longevity, especially in the weak OD gears.


  16. Thanks Mdavlee thanked for this post
    Likes Mdavlee, JSSmoke1074, SyN liked this post
  17. Top Of Page | #10
    JSSmoke1074's Avatar

    User Info Menu

    Re: Upgrading my 2018 68RFE

    Quote Originally Posted by ZeroSignal View Post
    I have a 2018 with 24,000 miles.

    It got the full DRD treatment at 6,000 miles.

    Just ordered a custom valve body from a reputable builder.

    Do your homework, and find a brand/builder you trust.

    There are lots of options out there.

    Ray sets the line pressure at 170psi for a stock 68RFE.

    You'll see spikes during shifts when the fluid is getting tossed around, but 160-170 is all she'll hold when it counts.

    With an upgraded valvebody (e.g. separator plate, accumulator plate, accumulator pistons, SSV, and/or billet channel plate) Ray can tune you for up to 225psi.

    That helps reduce clutch slippage which is important for longevity, especially in the weak OD gears.

    Have you had your new valve body installed now?

    How is the performance?

    2018 2500 Limited Tungsten --- MM3 by DRD, Banks 3.5" horn, Banks grid heater delete, S&B dry filter, JAMO 5", ARP 625, FASS 165 w/sump pump

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •