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Thread: P003A/P00AF/U010C

  1. Top Of Page | #1

    P003A/P00AF/U010C

    Hey guys - my 2015 6.7 with 98,000 miles is still under Powertrain warranty until the end of April 2020.
    About 2 weeks ago my check engine light lit up for the first time with P003A and P00AF codes.
    No drivability issues and cleared codes.
    They came back and took truck into dealer I purchased it from.
    They diagnosed issue as a failing Boost Control module.
    They told me this part isn't covered under the Powertrain warranty as it isn't oil lubricated.
    Which I find difficult to believe.
    Just wondering if anyone else here has had their Boost Control module replaced under the FCA 5 year 100k mile Powertrain warranty.

    From more research here I have learned that the real issue is the sliding diffuser ring in the Cummins variable geometry turbo getting gummed up with soot from the EGR system (have not deleted truck yet because it was under warranty, or so I thought) and then requiring more force to move than the Boost Control module can reliably supply.
    So most seem to say don't waste your time replacing just the Boost Control module, replace the Turbo or the problem will just come back as it's not possible to reliably clean the Turbo itself.
    I have cleared the codes multiple times and now they come back within a few miles of driving.
    And I'm also now getting the U010C code.
    At this point when I get the codes the Turbo stops making a max of 30 psi of boost and only makes about 8-10 psi of boost.

    I had not been using the exhaust brake on a regular basis from the time I bought the truck (purchased used in 2017 with 70,000 miles).
    Once I started getting the codes I learned I needed to run the exhaust brake on a regular basis (to exercise the VGT and hopefully knock some of the soot loose from the sliding diffuser ring), and also drive the truck much more aggressively to exercise the Turbo for the same reason.
    Truck seemed better doing that for a little while but now I get the codes after a few miles and boost is limited and exhaust brake doesn't do much.

    Seems like I will be doing a Turbo soon.
    Just wanted to post here to see if anyone sees anything I am missing, or knows if my dealer is jacking me around saying the Boost Control module is not covered under warranty.
    And yes, I have purchased an MM3 tuner and exhaust delete from Ray.
    Which I should have done when I got the truck.
    Thanks for any thoughts.


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  3. Top Of Page | #2
    Saltwaterdiesel's Avatar

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    Re: P003A/P00AF/U010C

    I just replaced mine like two weeks ago. I played that CEL, reset, drive game for three months. Them I lost all boost and obviously, my exhaust brake. Luckily i saw the writing on the wall and already had my turbo in n the garage waiting.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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  5. Top Of Page | #3
    I WILL STAND! AK Bob's Avatar

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    Re: P003A/P00AF/U010C

    https://www.genosgarage.com/product/...3/new-products


    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.

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  7. Top Of Page | #4
    Basic Member cwendel's Avatar

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    Re: P003A/P00AF/U010C

    Dealers suck.

    They know the real problem but have the play the FCA game of minimum effort and maximum end cost.

    State Farm started the practice years ago to save money and all the cheap insurance companies followed. Had to replace one part at a time and pay for repeated suspension alignments to try and save a buck. FCA just copied the model and now this is how the car companies work. If you are lucky you can just replace the actuator.

    If the turbo is just sticky, the actuator will help and should fix your problem. To be sure, you should pull the actuator and make sure you can move the vanes full stroke.

    I had replaced mine and found that I could move the vanes easily after a few turns. I just had to do a repair on my actuator from City Diesel, it was one of the first out, and found I had even more travel than when I had put it in.

    Otherwise, if the actuator is good there is a company, forget who, that sells the VGT turbo without the actuator for like $1600 US. If yours is still good, it can save some money.

    Otherwise, you could see if the dealer is willing to be real be willing to refund you the actuator cost if they replace it and the code does not go away. If they refuse that one, you know they are really wasting your time.

    2013 2500 6.7 cummins crew cab. white and stock as can be
    If it were not for bad luck I would have no luck at all.

    using Tapatalk


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  9. Top Of Page | #5

    Re: P003A/P00AF/U010C

    Thank you guys VERY MUCH!! I will get that actuator out and see what my situation is.

    Will keep you posted.

    Loving that @Citydiesel actuator that does not require calibration.


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  11. Top Of Page | #6
    TX_2500_Cummins's Avatar

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    Re: P003A/P00AF/U010C

    Resurrecting an oldie here, but just came across this issue in my truck today.

    All three identical codes with another random code that must have cleared itself after turning off and then back on.

    What was your final outcome on this issue?




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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  13. Top Of Page | #7
    I WILL STAND! AK Bob's Avatar

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    Re: P003A/P00AF/U010C

    @kkiller46 please post update.


    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.

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  15. Top Of Page | #8
    I WILL STAND! AK Bob's Avatar

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    Re: P003A/P00AF/U010C

    Quote Originally Posted by TX_2500_Cummins View Post
    Resurrecting an oldie here..... but just came across this issue in my truck today.... all three identical codes... with another random code that must have cleared itself after turning off and then back on. what was your final outcome on this issue?
    https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9df4df39e8.jpg


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    @TX_2500_Cummins looks like @kkiller46 did order and install the City Diesel actuator.

    City Diesel Actuator for 2013+ Cummins 6.7L
    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app

    Hopefully he will update us.


    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.

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  17. Top Of Page | #9
    TX_2500_Cummins's Avatar

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    Re: P003A/P00AF/U010C

    Reading several other threads on this now sounds like that’s where I’m headed.

    Guess I’ll need to check to see if I’m a candidate for the replacement (I.E. the vanes are not crusted shut).


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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  19. Top Of Page | #10

    Re: P003A/P00AF/U010C

    Sorry guys, haven't been on in a while.
    Yes, my OEM actuator had failed. And even though my truck was still under warranty Dodge would not cover under Powertrain Warranty because the Actuator isn't common to the engine oiling system. Never mind that it has coolant running to it.
    So I purchased a City Diesel Actuator and could not be happier with the product and the service.
    In addition I also added a DRD MM3 Tuner at the same time.
    Again, could not be happier with the product and service.
    One sidenote, just in case anyone else has experienced this. After installing Actator and Tune I was running the exhaust brake on by default.
    And occasionally, like once every few weeks, I would start the truck when it was hot and it would sound kind of like when the exhaust brake is engaged as part of the DRD tune to help warm the truck up in cold weather.
    But the truck would have no power and just pour black smoke from the exhaust.
    I simply had to restart the truck to correct.
    I asked Ray at DRD about it as I thought it might be a software glitch.
    He said he thought it was actually an Actuator issue. So contacted Jason at City Diesel. Here is what he said.

    I think Ray probably has the right idea about this. It does sound like
    the vanes are sticking in the closed position. 99% of the time when you
    have a mechanical problem causing vanes to stick its in the fully closed
    position. It sounds like you have a mechanical vane issue thats
    probably only happening when the right sequence of events is happening,
    IE the truck is hot and the vanes are commanded to 100% they may be
    sticking occasionally. It does not make sense for this to be an
    actuator issue. Most of the time when this is an actuator problem you
    do not see it always have a problem in the same vane position. To the
    actuator there is no difference in closed, open or anywhere in between.
    We see this most often in trucks that are using the exhaust brake 100%
    of the time as this does cause premature piston ring wear on the turbine
    wheel piston ring. The main contributor of wear to this piston ring is
    exhaust pressure and the exhaust brake being on constantly of course
    increases exhaust pressure and piston ring wear. When this piston ring
    wears a bit the turbo starts allowing a small amount of oil into the
    exhaust housing. This small amount of oil mixes with exhaust and
    creates a gummy mess that gets pushed up to the extreme ends of the
    typcialvane travel(IE 95% travel) and can cause the vanes to stick when
    its pushed passed that @100%. The later model trucks (after 2012) went
    to a dual piston ring setup that makes this less common but it does
    still occasionally happen.

    No more often than you are seeing the issue exercising the vanes will
    probably be enough to fix this for you. Please note that running the
    exhaust brake is not good exercise as most of the time the exhaust brake
    stops at the 95% range. You instead need to exercise the entire range.
    The easiest way of doing this is turning your ignition key on and
    plugging and unplugging either the fuse that powers the actuator or the
    plugging and unplugging the actuator connector itself. The goal is to
    cycle power to the actuator in order to trigger its self-learn and self
    clean cycle. This needs to be done at least 100 times. You can also
    simply cycle the ignition from on-off-on many times the problem is you
    need to wait 4 seconds after switching off before turning it back on.
    You might get away with simply cycling the ignition a few extra times
    everytime you drive it as well.

    I did what he suggested and it completed solved the issue. Has not happened again and it's been like 4 months.
    If you need any other info don't hesitate to ask.
    Again I cannot recommend DRD and City Diesel highly enough. They are both wonderful to work with!


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