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Thread: P003A/P00AF/U010C

  1. Top Of Page | #11
    TX_2500_Cummins's Avatar

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    Re: P003A/P00AF/U010C

    Quote Originally Posted by kkiller46 View Post
    Sorry guys, haven't been on in a while.
    Yes, my OEM actuator had failed. And even though my truck was still under warranty Dodge would not cover under Powertrain Warranty because the Actuator isn't common to the engine oiling system. Never mind that it has coolant running to it.
    So I purchased a City Diesel Actuator and could not be happier with the product and the service.
    In addition I also added a DRD MM3 Tuner at the same time.
    Again, could not be happier with the product and service.
    One sidenote, just in case anyone else has experienced this. After installing Actator and Tune I was running the exhaust brake on by default.
    And occasionally, like once every few weeks, I would start the truck when it was hot and it would sound kind of like when the exhaust brake is engaged as part of the DRD tune to help warm the truck up in cold weather.
    But the truck would have no power and just pour black smoke from the exhaust.
    I simply had to restart the truck to correct.
    I asked Ray at DRD about it as I thought it might be a software glitch.
    He said he thought it was actually an Actuator issue. So contacted Jason at City Diesel. Here is what he said.

    I think Ray probably has the right idea about this. It does sound like
    the vanes are sticking in the closed position. 99% of the time when you
    have a mechanical problem causing vanes to stick its in the fully closed
    position. It sounds like you have a mechanical vane issue thats
    probably only happening when the right sequence of events is happening,
    IE the truck is hot and the vanes are commanded to 100% they may be
    sticking occasionally. It does not make sense for this to be an
    actuator issue. Most of the time when this is an actuator problem you
    do not see it always have a problem in the same vane position. To the
    actuator there is no difference in closed, open or anywhere in between.
    We see this most often in trucks that are using the exhaust brake 100%
    of the time as this does cause premature piston ring wear on the turbine
    wheel piston ring. The main contributor of wear to this piston ring is
    exhaust pressure and the exhaust brake being on constantly of course
    increases exhaust pressure and piston ring wear. When this piston ring
    wears a bit the turbo starts allowing a small amount of oil into the
    exhaust housing. This small amount of oil mixes with exhaust and
    creates a gummy mess that gets pushed up to the extreme ends of the
    typcialvane travel(IE 95% travel) and can cause the vanes to stick when
    its pushed passed that @100%. The later model trucks (after 2012) went
    to a dual piston ring setup that makes this less common but it does
    still occasionally happen.

    No more often than you are seeing the issue exercising the vanes will
    probably be enough to fix this for you. Please note that running the
    exhaust brake is not good exercise as most of the time the exhaust brake
    stops at the 95% range. You instead need to exercise the entire range.
    The easiest way of doing this is turning your ignition key on and
    plugging and unplugging either the fuse that powers the actuator or the
    plugging and unplugging the actuator connector itself. The goal is to
    cycle power to the actuator in order to trigger its self-learn and self
    clean cycle. This needs to be done at least 100 times. You can also
    simply cycle the ignition from on-off-on many times the problem is you
    need to wait 4 seconds after switching off before turning it back on.
    You might get away with simply cycling the ignition a few extra times
    everytime you drive it as well.

    I did what he suggested and it completed solved the issue. Has not happened again and it's been like 4 months.
    If you need any other info don't hesitate to ask.
    Again I cannot recommend DRD and City Diesel highly enough. They are both wonderful to work with!
    Lots of info there that I’ll need to read again a few more times but thanks for sharing! .... But my spark plugs have been properly gappped by Ray @ DRD and I do run the exhaust brake in “auto” 100% of the time. I thought that I had read this was better for “self cleaning” the turbo and keeping it from sticking so now I’m conflicted in what I’ve read. I’ve not experienced to my knowledge the issue you speak of when “hot starting” the truck but I’ll keep an eye out for that too but maybe that’s only after your aftermarket City Diesel Actuator was installed..... I’m glad to hear they’ve been more than helpful in diagnosing the issues and working with you towards a solution and if/when I need to go that route.


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  3. Top Of Page | #12

    Re: P003A/P00AF/U010C

    You are exactly right about what I also was told about running the exhaust brake all the time to help keep the VGT "clean."

    Bought my 2015 used in 2017 with 70k miles.

    Didn't run the exhaust brake all the time and started throwing Actuator codes around 95,000 miles in Dec of 2019.

    I tried running the exhaust brake at that point and running the truck hard to try and "clean" the VGT.

    It didn't work.

    In addition, when I pulled my OEM actuator, the sector gear that connects the actuator to the sliding ring in the VGT turbo moved quickly with just finger pressure.

    Meaning my VGT sliding ring never was crusted up with junk.

    My OEM actuator failed.

    I would suggest you contact Jason at City Diesel.

    I'm betting he could clarify our confusion regarding using the exhaust brake to clean the turbo sliding ring.


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  5. Top Of Page | #13
    rcmedic's Avatar

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    Re: P003A/P00AF/U010C

    Thank you for the information.

    I am currently dealing with all three of the codes noted on my 2017 2500 with 117k miles.


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  7. Top Of Page | #14
    rcmedic's Avatar

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    Re: P003A/P00AF/U010C

    So the codes on my truck are those mentioned previously, specifically P003A, P00AF, and U010C.

    I have cleared them a couple of times now to find that they return randomly (concerning driving conditions/load) with no significant change in performance until the U010C code sets.

    After clearing the codes, the truck functions entirely as it should until they return. (less than 100 miles)

    My question is simple.

    Is there a way to test the actuator without and otherwise check to assure complete, easy stroke on the vanes without draining the coolant and pulling the actuator?

    My truck is 2015 6.7 at ~117000 miles.


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  9. Top Of Page | #15
    I WILL STAND! AK Bob's Avatar

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    Re: P003A/P00AF/U010C

    Quote Originally Posted by rcmedic View Post
    So the codes on my truck are those mentioned previously, specifically P003A, P00AF, and U010C.

    I have cleared them a couple of times now to find that they return randomly (concerning driving conditions/load) with no significant change in performance until the U010C code sets.

    After clearing the codes, the truck functions entirely as it should until they return. (less than 100 miles)

    My question is simple.

    Is there a way to test the actuator without and otherwise check to assure complete, easy stroke on the vanes without draining the coolant and pulling the actuator?

    My truck is 2015 6.7 at ~117000 miles.
    Unfortunately, the only way to check for freedom of movement from stop to stop is to remove the actuator.


    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.

    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.

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  11. Top Of Page | #16

    Re: P003A/P00AF/U010C

    I had the same three codes.

    I was broke at the time, so I tried pulling my turbo and taking it apart.

    I was cleaning everything I could.

    I lubed it up and put it back together.

    I changed my actuator and reinstalled it.

    I haven’t had a code since.

    Now I’m ready to do a 2nd Gen swap.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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  13. Top Of Page | #17
    TexNeck's Avatar

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    Re: P003A/P00AF/U010C

    Quote Originally Posted by SKIBBEE4thGEN View Post
    I had the same three codes.

    I was broke at the time, so I tried pulling my turbo and taking it apart.

    I was cleaning everything I could.

    I lubed it up and put it back together.

    I changed my actuator and reinstalled it.

    I haven’t had a code since.

    Now I’m ready to do a 2nd Gen swap.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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    2013 Ram 2500
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