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Thread: 2500 Super Bouncy?

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    2500 Super Bouncy?

    I have a 2014 Ram 2500, 4" lift and 35" tires. Driving on city roads, the truck is just so dang bouncy I'm wondering if there is a dead shock or something. I've read on other forums that is how the truck is supposed to be and when there is load, it smooths out. I'm just wanting to get clarification on this, because even then it seems very bouncy. Mind you, this isn't a vibration from tires or Alignment, it's an actual bounce that directly matches the bouncing/bumps of the road and is more prevalent on city streets going 30-50ish MPH. Does anyone have any experience with this or knowledge about it? Maybe things I can check?

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    Noneck's Avatar

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    Re: 2500 Super Bouncy?

    If it's riding rough/harsh you may want to try lowering your air pressure all the way around. If it seems like the rebound is not being properly controlled it could be a shock related issue. (Worn out, incorrect shock selection, etc)
    Did u lift the truck or purchase it that way? Is this a new issue or has it always been like that?
    The trucks with rear coils will typically ride a little nicer than rear leaf springs. These things won't ever ride "nice" in my opinion regardless of what you do. They're just big brutal monsters that will pull a house. I tried Bilsteins on my leveled 2003 2500 and personally didn't notice any ride difference when I replaced OEM shocks with them at 70,000 miles.

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    2013 Laramie 2500 CC. Warp tuning on RaceMe. 2 inch level w/35s.

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    Re: 2500 Super Bouncy?

    Quote Originally Posted by Noneck View Post
    If it's riding rough/harsh you may want to try lowering your air pressure all the way around. If it seems like the rebound is not being properly controlled it could be a shock related issue. (Worn out, incorrect shock selection, etc)
    Did u lift the truck or purchase it that way? Is this a new issue or has it always been like that?
    The trucks with rear coils will typically ride a little nicer than rear leaf springs. These things won't ever ride "nice" in my opinion regardless of what you do. They're just big brutal monsters that will pull a house. I tried Bilsteins on my leveled 2003 2500 and personally didn't notice any ride difference when I replaced OEM shocks with them at 70,000 miles.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    So sorry, I started to reply to this and got a call and forgot. My tires are at 55 front, 50 rear, but have been down to 45/40 and the problem was the same.

    I do feel like it's a rebound that's excessive, almost like I'm going to bounce off my traction... it's an odd feeling at times.

    I purchased the truck with what I think is a 4" lift, but not positive. I based it off the bolt positions on the rear.

    I took a pic of the shock in the back, not sure if the color and shape of the label may give anything away to what it is.



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  7. Top Of Page | #4
    Noneck's Avatar

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    Re: 2500 Super Bouncy?

    They look like a generic aftermarket shock like skyjacker or superlift.

    A better shock may help but I'd guess tire pressure will have more of an impact on ride than shocks on a lifted truck.

    Especially a 2500.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

    2013 Laramie 2500 CC. Warp tuning on RaceMe. 2 inch level w/35s.

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  9. Top Of Page | #5
    DDP's Avatar

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    Re: 2500 Super Bouncy?

    Quote Originally Posted by jgruberman View Post
    I have a 2014 Ram 2500, 4" lift and 35" tires. Driving on city roads, the truck is just so dang bouncy I'm wondering if there is a dead shock or something. I've read on other forums that is how the truck is supposed to be and when there is load, it smooths out. I'm just wanting to get clarification on this, because even then it seems very bouncy. Mind you, this isn't a vibration from tires or Alignment, it's an actual bounce that directly matches the bouncing/bumps of the road and is more prevalent on city streets going 30-50ish MPH. Does anyone have any experience with this or knowledge about it? Maybe things I can check?

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

    Hm... normally the 14+ 2500's ride much better then the pre year trucks. Like stated the shocks do look like they are cheaper. I would start off with a better shock and go from there. It is a 2500 so it won't ride great but it can ride well. If that doesn't help then you can try changing lift brands.

    You can always change to a Thuren or Carli lift but then your talking about a pretty big price difference but it's well worth it. My top selling suspension is Thuren and Carli kits then BDS.

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  11. Top Of Page | #6
    Noneck's Avatar

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    Re: 2500 Super Bouncy?

    Quote Originally Posted by jgruberman View Post
    I have a 2014 Ram 2500, 4" lift and 35" tires. Driving on city roads, the truck is just so dang bouncy I'm wondering if there is a dead shock or something. I've read on other forums that is how the truck is supposed to be and when there is load, it smooths out. I'm just wanting to get clarification on this, because even then it seems very bouncy. Mind you, this isn't a vibration from tires or Alignment, it's an actual bounce that directly matches the bouncing/bumps of the road and is more prevalent on city streets going 30-50ish MPH. Does anyone have any experience with this or knowledge about it? Maybe things I can check?

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
    Not to be a smart ***, but is this your first 2500?

    You may want to drive a factory stock one and compare if so.

    In my experience a lifted truck will always ride worse than a factory truck.

    I will say that the 2inch level on my 13 2500 actually made it ride a little nicer using just coil spring spacers in the front.

    Instead of going nose first into bumps and potholes, it feels like it's going over them now, but a full on lift will typically decrease ride comfort.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

    2013 Laramie 2500 CC. Warp tuning on RaceMe. 2 inch level w/35s.

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    Re: 2500 Super Bouncy?

    Quote Originally Posted by Noneck View Post
    Not to be a smart ***, but is this your first 2500?

    You may want to drive a factory stock one and compare if so.

    In my experience a lifted truck will always ride worse than a factory truck.

    I will say that the 2inch level on my 13 2500 actually made it ride a little nicer using just coil spring spacers in the front.

    Instead of going nose first into bumps and potholes, it feels like it's going over them now, but a full on lift will typically decrease ride comfort.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    No smartassery received, yes this is my first one.

    I don't have anything to compare it to unfortunately.

    That said, I believe that even the amount of bouncing is abnormal for my particular scenario.

    Every single person that's rode in it has made a comment about how bouncy it was, which sort of got me thinking and I'm tending to agree with them at this point.

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  15. Top Of Page | #8
    16 Cummins's Avatar

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    Re: 2500 Super Bouncy?

    Are your tires 10 ply?

    Anything less will add to the bounce.


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  17. Top Of Page | #9
    Noneck's Avatar

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    Re: 2500 Super Bouncy?

    Take some pics of your front and rear suspension setup and post them.

    I'm curious to see the lift.

    It could be front springs with spacers or completely new springs.

    Aside from tire pressure, the only way to improve your ride really will be to start replacing parts like shocks and springs.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

    2013 Laramie 2500 CC. Warp tuning on RaceMe. 2 inch level w/35s.

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  19. Top Of Page | #10

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    Re: 2500 Super Bouncy?

    Quote Originally Posted by Noneck View Post
    Take some pics of your front and rear suspension setup and post them.

    I'm curious to see the lift.

    It could be front springs with spacers or completely new springs.

    Aside from tire pressure, the only way to improve your ride really will be to start replacing parts like shocks and springs.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    I'll take some right now and attach, I've been curious about it myself for a while. Would I see any benefit from replacing just the rears, assuming it's a shock issue? Being the easier end to do, I'd rather do that first if I may see potential improvement(versus just needing to do the front, or all at the same time)

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