2012 RAM 3500 "At My Wits End"

[Hawkdriver]

Hey Everyone,

I purchased a 2012 Ram 3500 4wd G56 truck from an auction almost a year ago. I was overseas at the time of purchase, but was told that it was a good truck and just didn't run. It was a good price and I purchased the truck and after a friend picked it up I learned of all the issues it had. The transmission, transfercase, drivelines, engine block had a hole in the side, ECM was fried, and wiring had been cut to just name a few problems that I discovered.

I replaced everything with new or rebuilt parts and drove the truck across the US to my new duty station. I am still currently facing one issue that I can't seem to fix.

When the key is turned ON the red security light on the dash flashes for 60-120 seconds when its warm outside (80*) and once the light goes out the truck will start. When its cold out it can take up to 30-60 minutes with the key on until the security light will go out. I don't think its a security issue, but more than likely a wiring issue.

Here is everything I have done for troubleshooting this problem.

8 Months ago
-Took it to a diesel shop and let them play with it for a week. It seemed that they weren't really up to the task after they programmed the ECM several times and didn't have any luck.
-Replaced the WIN module with new keys
-Replaced the TIPM
-Replaced the engine bay wiring harness that goes between the batteries and TIPM
-New set of batteries

1 Month ago
-Sent off new ECM to be tested and came back with a couple software issues, but nothing serious
-Another new set of larger batteries

A couple things I have learned from troubleshooting.

-Tested all the circuits in the TIPM and found that when the security light is on then there isn't power to ASD 1, 2 and 3
-Temperature plays a large factor in how quickly the security light goes off and allows power to the ASD circuits.
-Constantly have a P0658 Actuator Supply Voltage Low but unable to find information on which circuit to test
-When hooked to another vehicle with jumper-cables the truck will start faster ( More amperage being pushed through the circuits)

I am frustrated and the next step I can think to do is pull the body wiring harness and visually check for wire damage (body harness is discontinued). I have only a few months until I move again and would like to have this fixed before I leave AZ. One last thought, I have normally had good luck with the auctions. I am losing my shorts on this truck and I am ok with that. "Sometimes you win and other times you lose".

Any help or ideas are appreciated.

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[cwendel]

P0658-CONTROL SUPPLY VOLTAGE CIRCUIT LOW

For a complete wiring diagram, refer to the Wiring Information .

The EGR Valve receives 12.0 Volts from an internal driver in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM monitors this internal power supply to the EGR Valve. The PCM illuminates the MIL Lamp immediately when the monitor runs and fails. The EGR Valve Driver is disabled and can no longer control the EGR Valve. The EGR Valve will default to the closed position. The PCM will turn off the MIL Lamp after the monitor runs and passes.


Basically, you are looking to see if the voltage to the egr valve is correct. Check all of the wiring and each path that the 12v from the ecm takes on the way to the egr valve. There sounds like a problem of either and bad ground or a bad connection.

I would also suggest buying some really higrade contact cleaner like DeoxIT and clean every connector.

I suggest you start with the battery cables and ohm test each one.

Then get each battery checked to make sure they do not have any dead cells. A battery can pass the voltage test and still start the truck while having a dead or weak cell.


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[Hawkdriver]

Thank you.

EGR is deleted, but I’ll clean all the wire contacts at the ECM.

Batteries have been tested and verified good. This is my second set of batteries just to make sure.

I’ll do an ohm test on the battery cables to verify no resistance. Most of the battery cables are new.

I also have a stumble at idle and injector codes that will come up. The weird part is once I clear the codes and run the truck for a bit then the injector code will come back, but with a different injector. Never the same injector code twice, always a different one.


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[cwendel]

The delete is part of why to follow the entire path.

Each circuit does not have its own supply, they branch off a single feed.

The same goes for the signal wires.

The base voltage can be used by many different sensors on that part of the loom.

Check every part of the loom and you will find the problem.

Also, you may want to add more grounds between the engine, cab and chassis.

It may help, but it won't hurt.

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[Hawkdriver]

Perfect, I have a place to divert my energy now.

Do you have a wiring diagram for the engine harness?


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[cwendel]

Perfect, I have a place to divert my energy now.

Do you have a wiring diagram for the engine harness?


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I will see what I can find.....

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[cwendel]

Here is for the EGR.

The diagrams are not complete like they once were. So each set of systems has their own diagrams. Lots of diagrams.

The ground diagrams are a whole other scary issue.

It looks like you should look at the harness that went over the valve cover for problems.




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[Hawkdriver]

Thank you.


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[Hawkdriver]

Are the All data diy diagrams worth the subscription?

I don’t mind buying it if it’s worth the subscription.


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[AK Bob]

Are the All data diy diagrams worth the subscription?

I don’t mind buying it if it’s worth the subscription.


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Just thought I would jump in here. You may want to consider a LPM upgrade and gain access to the 2012-2015 RAM Service Manual. You will find lots of troubleshooting information and wiring schematics. See attached for example. 2012-2015 Dodge Ram Service Manual page 9580 (Merged).pdf


2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.

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