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Thread: Help! These Front Pads are Driving Me Nuts

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    Basic Member Frank2013's Avatar

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    Help! These Front Pads are Driving Me Nuts

    I'm replacing the rotors and pads on my 2013 3500.

    The pads have these annoying clips on the back.

    They are thin as hell, and three of them have broken off.

    About to say screw it and have it towed to a dealer and eat the cost.

    One was broken off in the box.

    Are they necessary?

    And any suggestions on how not to break them off the U shaped clips?



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    MOD watersupply189's Avatar

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    Help! These Front Pads are Driving Me Nuts

    Quote Originally Posted by Frank2013 View Post
    I'm replacing the rotors and pads on my 2013 3500.

    The pads have these annoying clips on the back.

    They are thin as hell, and three of them have broken off.

    About to say screw it and have it towed to a dealer and eat the cost.

    One was broken off in the box.

    Are they necessary?

    And any suggestions on how not to break them off the U shaped clips?

    https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...fac530811f.jpg

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
    One is a warning clip letting you know when your pads getting low.
    The other keeps the brake pad from moving inside the caliper.

    2016 Ram Laramie 3500 (DRD), G56, 6.7, Rough Country Leveling, HID headlights, Morimoto LED fogs plus a whole lot more!

    2016 RAM 3500 4x4 Laramie Crew Cab
    Cummins,G56, Rough Country level, Morimoto LED fog lights, LED headlights, Lund Attitude Steps sprayed with Line-X, DRL's Activated, 35x12.50R18 Falken Wildpeak ATW3, Fuel Vapor Wheels Matte Black w/Dark Tint, A.R.E. Truck cap and swing boxes

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    Basic Member Frank2013's Avatar

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    Re: Help! These Front Pads are Driving Me Nuts

    Thanks. Pretty sure it is the one that is suppose to hold the pad in the caliper. Dont see me buying powerstop pads again. I'm giving it a go without them. There doesn't appear to be anyway the pads are going anywhere. I was concerned they were some type of spring to pull the pad back from the disc when u released the break.. these things have been a nightmare. Had two of the slider pins rusted one was so bad i had to buy a new bracket

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    Noneck's Avatar

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    Re: Help! These Front Pads are Driving Me Nuts

    Just did rotors and pads on my 13 yesterday.

    If you are careful those little clips slide right in.

    First you have to make sure that the stainless clips are seated entirely in the bracket. Use a small screwdriver to pull them completely flush into the bracket. (These are the ones that line the caliper bracket.

    They have a little bend on the inner side and a curled lip on the outer side. That outer lip doesnt want to seat easily into the mount and needs to be pulled firmly into the bracket outside so it's entirely seated) If they are not flush, the pads will not easily slide into the mounting bracket and those little clips on the pad you're referring to will interfere and then break if you force them.

    If your calipers are compressed all the way and your clips are mounted fully they will slide right in,you just have to take your time and confirm everything is aligned before you slide the pads in.

    Attached pic may help.


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    2013 Laramie 2500 CC. Warp tuning on RaceMe. 2 inch level w/35s.

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    Crshanta's Avatar

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    Re: Help! These Front Pads are Driving Me Nuts

    Clips are nice, but not necessary. I typically remove them, mostly due to the road salt and freeze/thaw cycles in pa winter to prevent pads from wearing unevenly. The clips are there to pull the pads back off the rotor, similar to a spring and prevent rattling. If the clips are not on the pads, you should fit the ears (cast iron part) that slides on the caliper stainless insert to a point where you can slide the pad with your pinky. That way the pads will rebound off the rotor without the clips after releasing the brake pad.

    To fit the ear, test fit on a bench with the old stainless slides. Grind or file the ear allow free sliding movement of the pad. Once you get it to your liking, install the new stainless inserts. When installing the new ss inserts bend the little tabs back to hold to the caliper. Then test fit the pads again and then grease the ears with synthetic caliper grease.

    If removing to much material from the ears, the pads may rattle when not on the brakes at low speed. It is an iterative process and takes a little patience.

    2018 srw 3500

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    Noneck's Avatar

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    Re: Help! These Front Pads are Driving Me Nuts

    Personally I wouldn't grind the pad ears down, especially without the clips. You're just asking for rattles.

    The pads I just installed had stainless clips and you also apply a tiny bit of grease to each ear on the pad before sliding it on place. I've never had to grind any personally using careful installation I don't see the need to do so.

    The pads I just replaced were a lifetime pad from Advance I believe and we're about 8 months old with I'm guessing 6k miles. They didn't stop worth a darn.

    I found a nice kit with drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads for around $250 for all 4 wheels.


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    2013 Laramie 2500 CC. Warp tuning on RaceMe. 2 inch level w/35s.

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  12. Top Of Page | #7
    Basic Member Frank2013's Avatar

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    Re: Help! These Front Pads are Driving Me Nuts

    Thanks for all the feedback.

    When I got the pads in they move without a lot of resistance.

    Pretty sure the clips were seated.

    I think part of it is the product. The clips were super thin and not stainless or as robust as the ones in your picnic the OEM ones.

    One broke off in the box during shipping.

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