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I towed stupid heavy moving hay with the Toyo RT.
I got 46k out of them with a good. It left when I pulled them.
I got Cooper STT pro now and they’re more aggressive and I haven’t towed yet to see how they handle that.
I got a killer deal on them at $850 from a private sale.
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Yep mine is unplugged and I’m waiting for city diesel as they are on back orderOriginally Posted by sycoink
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I’m very inclined to listen to you now, primarily what I tow is a 30’ gooseneck full of hay (way overweight, I know) or equipment such as tractors or a skid steer.
Fellas are we talking about the 4x4 actuator it the VGT turbo actuator?
Not sure about the 4x4 part but yes the VGT Turbo Actuator that seems to be a pretty popular issue on the forum.
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The 4x4 actuator is inside the front axle and connects the right side axle shaft to the differential when 4x4 is engaged. When not engaged less driveline spinning equals better fuel mileage.
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Ahh yes I know about the VGT actuator issues all too well but that’s a discussion for a different thread. We’re here to talk about tires and while I have you all here I’d like to contest a theory. I’ve considered going back to my stock wheels, I initially had (the metric equivalent of) 35x12.50 Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ on the stock 17x9 wheels, being dumb I didn’t rotate as meticulously as I do now(every 4,000 miles) and was very disappointed with the tread life. One thing I noticed was considerably more wear in the center of the tire than the sides. My theory here is that mounting such a tall/wide tire on such a small/narrow rim caused the tire to ballon out in the middle and be shaped sort of like a bicycle tire, thus causing it to ride more on the center of the tread rather than evenly across the entire cross section of the tire. I’ve since bout these 20x10 wheels and they stretch these 35x12.5 tires wonderfully and cause it to evenly burn up the entire tread. However I’m realizing the 20” rim is adding some cost to my tire purchase. So I’ve considered going back to the 17’s but don’t want to sacrifice tread life. Has anyone else noticed this and/or agree with my theory? One idea I’ve considered is a tire equivalent to the size of 35x10.5x17 for a more even cross section but haven’t been able to find such a tire.
I agree with your theory with 10 inch wheel is better suited for 12.50 than a 9 inch. After a quick search the closest i found to a 35x12.50-17 is 280/80r17 which is 34.7ish x 11ish depending on what brand. Were you going to go back with your stock 17s or were you wanting aftermarket? If you go aftermarket I would suggest 17x10s and going with 35x12.50s because tire options are a lot more common if you ever mess one up beyond repair if your ever traveling. I know from experience with one of my previous trucks I had 32x11.50-15 and had 2 blowouts on a trip and trying to find that size on a weekend in stock was fun. I was able to find the only 2 within about 100 miles only about 20 miles behind where we were.
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@03 unicorn I already have aftermarket 20x10.
Partially because finding used tires for that size is super easy, but I’ve been considering going back to the stock 17x9 to save a few $$$ on tires but it probably won’t work out in the long run since I’ll burn up tread faster.
I do have a 35x12.5x17 tire mounted to my spare rim and that’s gotten me out of a jam before.
Ok what you could do is put the stock wheels on temporarily sell the 20s and find some aftermarket 17x10s then get new 35x12.50-17 with out them ballooning out and wearing the center out.
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285/75/17 is a good size and has a real high weight rating.
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