Diesel Preheat Gone after Tune and Delete?

[neutraldutch]

Hey all. I'm having cold start issues but this is just something I noticed since I'm having the issue. Has anyone noticed that the diesel preheat light is gone after deleting?

I'm currently having bad smoke at cold start up but it still starts. Misses and smokes like a ******* but keeps going and drives perfectly. As soon as it warms up after driving a bit the smoke is gone. I'm pretty sure it's the grid heater because it's not drawing enough juice. But I also noticed I haven't seen that light in a long time.

Anyway thought someone might know if this is something the tuner should have programmed to work.

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[watersupply189]

Hey all. I'm having cold start issues but this is just something I noticed since I'm having the issue. Has anyone noticed that the diesel preheat light is gone after deleting?

I'm currently having bad smoke at cold start up but it still starts. Misses and smokes like a ******* but keeps going and drives perfectly. As soon as it warms up after driving a bit the smoke is gone. I'm pretty sure it's the grid heater because it's not drawing enough juice. But I also noticed I haven't seen that light in a long time.

Anyway thought someone might know if this is something the tuner should have programmed to work.

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Welcome friend!

A little info about what your driving would help.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500 (DRD), G56, 6.7, Rough Country Leveling, HID headlights, Morimoto LED fogs plus a whole lot more!

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[neutraldutch]

Yes sorry. I realised that after I posted LOL.

Quick over view

2015 outdoorsman 90k

Deleted last year. 5 inch turbo back and efi live 90hp tuner. Bd diesel plate in the tranny to up line pressure to 220 I think.

After I deleted the turbo started acting up. Drove it for a year and got fed up. But the tune I had simply deactivated the egr and throttle plate. They were still there.

I replaced the turbo with a smeding diesel s363 and it works great. Other than the oil drain extension did not fit. I had to cut it down 20 thousands to get it to fit in the block. Since I was in there I fully deleted the egr and throttle plate so I'm wondering if that might be part of my issue that it needs to be tuned out completely rather than just turned off.

The smoke started after I installed the turbo so I thought it was the turbo leaking. Could the tune be angry it's not there?

Also the intake heater solenoid broke when we tried to remove it so I replaced it.

Symptoms
Heavy white smoke when cold starting and misses. Starts fine but smokes a lot. Plugged in it smokes very little .

Once warm runs perfect

Tried testing the grid heater and it didnt seem to draw much amperage. Put straight power to the bolt from the battery lead to the heater and it said 160 amps??? So is it shorted?

Diesel preheat light seems to not come on since tune

Good mileage and so far no evidence of diesel in the oil.



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[cwendel]

You need to have it returned for the new turbo. Your old turbo was a VGT while the new one is non-VGT. The tunes don't work together. Plus, I bet there are codes that are just waiting to surface that your tune is just blocking which are causing problems.

2013 2500 6.7 cummins crew cab. white and stock as can be
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[watersupply189]

Sounds like you need to retune your truck to the new turbo you installed since the one you put in is a non VGT turbo.



2016 Ram Laramie 3500 (DRD), G56, 6.7, Rough Country Leveling, HID headlights, Morimoto LED fogs plus a whole lot more!

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[neutraldutch]

Thanks for the response guys.

I think you are right.

I hadn't thought about the tune hiding codes. I did not tune it myself so I don't know that much about it.

I actually just left a message with a known tuner here in town to see how much he would dyno tune my truck for.

The last guy did a good job but it was a tune he gets from a guy in the states based on exhaust and disabling the egr but no removing it.

So it can't hurt to have it tuned properly. Any idea what that should cost? since it's already unlocked and tuned?

I don't want big power. I want better fuel economy and reliability.

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[neutraldutch]

OK so I have an update

I spoke to the dyno tuner today and I didn't get good news. It turns out that the 14 and newer trucks use egr for cold start. Makes sense but it sucks.

His recommendation is to use the stock turbo with egr installed. Well I don't really want to do that. I don't want the VGT. I don't want to buy an actuator.

He says if the turbo is fine he can tune it so the actuator wont break because it wont get as hot. But that's pretty risky. My turbo works great. And I can use the new turbo with the egr because it doesn't have egr port.

So now I need to figure out what to do. Can I add a heater to the intake so the air temp gets a little hotter? It doesn't smoke till the grid heater quits cycling.

Another option would be to get an espar heater. When the truck is plugged in it starts like if it was hot out. No smoke. And the coolant isn't all that hot when its plugged in.

There is a company that makes a replacement heater that goes in place of the throttle body. I cant remember what it is. Do you guys?

Or there is a small coil style that goes in the air horn.

What you guys think?

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[neutraldutch]

Found the grid heater
https://8lugtruckgear.com/Shibby-Eng...ater-p761.html


Does anyone know why this might not work on a 2015 truck? It says up to 12

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[MC250r719]

OK so I have an update

I spoke to the dyno tuner today and I didn't get good news. It turns out that the 14 and newer trucks use egr for cold start. Makes sense but it sucks.

His recommendation is to use the stock turbo with egr installed. Well I don't really want to do that. I don't want the VGT. I don't want to buy an actuator.

He says if the turbo is fine he can tune it so the actuator wont break because it wont get as hot. But that's pretty risky. My turbo works great. And I can use the new turbo with the egr because it doesn't have egr port.

So now I need to figure out what to do. Can I add a heater to the intake so the air temp gets a little hotter? It doesn't smoke till the grid heater quits cycling.

Another option would be to get an espar heater. When the truck is plugged in it starts like if it was hot out. No smoke. And the coolant isn't all that hot when its plugged in.

There is a company that makes a replacement heater that goes in place of the throttle body. I cant remember what it is. Do you guys?

Or there is a small coil style that goes in the air horn.

What you guys think?

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My 17 does not use EGR for cold starts. It has a grid heater that goes directly on the cylinder head in between the head and intake horn.

Seems to me like you have a grid heater delete.

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[6.7 Coal Train]

My 17 does not use EGR for cold starts. It has a grid heater that goes directly on the cylinder head in between the head and intake horn.

Seems to me like you have a grid heater delete.

Agreed, you don't need EGR or VGT for cold starts. I would reassess a bit before you get too rammy on this one.

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