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That's exactly right.Originally Posted by kkiller46
The 2007-2012 trucks can use the factory gear box and only have to purchase the electronics half.
With both half's (the 2013+ version) it's a universal fit can be used from 2007-2017. (later models should work but have not been verified)
Was thinking maybe coolant got into original actuator but all looked good.
It just quit working.
Some electronics issue no doubt.
Turbo moves freely, thankfully.
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Since my first one went out 40k ago I've been thinking that's a heck of a place to bolt an electronic assembly with all the heat cycling.
Seems like it would be worthwhile to just have the linear actuator on the turbo and remote mount the controls.
Glad this works well too. Gonna be top of my list if/when I get another failure...
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Curious if you guys can tell me the advantage of the City actuator over stock other than non-calibration of the City. You can get an reman for 300. Not trying to cheap out on my truck, but looking for the perks of the City actuator.
thanks again.
Have heard mixed reviews on the reman with many problems of bad units. The city diesel units is all new parts and I can attest to being stronger than the stock unit. It also has programming that cycles the vanes at every key cycle. That will help to keep them clean. It also does not just stay stuck in a position. It will work free and continue to adjust the vanes, pushing past a stuck point.
Jaxonsram thanked for this post
Great thread, been having a few boost problems and I think this might be the answer.
Ordered today from @Geno's Garage.
2015 3500 Mega DRW Aisan Deep Cherry Red
Make sure your vanes move freely and that the actuator fits on smoothly.
If it is hard to get on at all, stop and check for binding.
That was the issue I had with my first gearbox.
If you can, make sure to slide the actuator as far upward as you can when installing if using the new gearbox.
2013 2500 6.7 cummins crew cab. white and stock as can be
If it were not for bad luck I would have no luck at all.
using Tapatalk
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Well, I received my very first P226C code last night just over 50,000 miles. Cleared the code with MM3. Could have been a fluke but will be closely monitoring VGT actual vs desired. If I start seeing a trending issue or more codes then I will check my actuator travel and will be going to Geno’s Garage for my City Diesel Actuator.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.
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2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
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For now, start using the gear limiting switch and locking out gears.
It will help as it will keep the exhaust side a little hotter and stop it from sticking.
I will believe you have the vanes sticking in the first 10% of travel.
That is where I have a problem right now.
2013 2500 6.7 cummins crew cab. white and stock as can be
If it were not for bad luck I would have no luck at all.
using Tapatalk
What is the best way to tell if you have full travel on the turbo?
I'd like to be sure I've got full travel before installing my City Actuator.
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