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Sorry I miss read, if just the nuts are rounded I would just replace them. As long as the studs are not damaged they should be fine.Originally Posted by Jeeper89
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.
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2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
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The studs seem fine, not even rusty. I try to give an update tomorrow. Also while the turbo was out I drilled and tapped the exhaust manifold for my egt probe.
Well I dropped of the turbo this morning to have it looked at again.
They just called and said that the actuator tested fine but the turbo was all carboned up again.
He claims that it must be due to over fueling or something. They cleaned it and re-calibrated for no charge but said I have other issues going on.
I still think that the actuator is acting up when it gets up to temperature. I have never had it stick while the engine is getting up to temp.
As soon as it get up to full operating temp it starts acting up. One time it will stick at 5% , then 27 then 43.
Sometimes it sticks for just a little bit other times it will stick for extend times.
If I push in the clutch and rev the engine sometimes it will start working again. I was getting the same engine codes before deleting so I am assuming that this was all happening before that too.
I'm running out of ideas on what to do next. I'm thinking of ordering the City Diesel actuator assembly but IF I do have a fuel issue how can I tell?
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Well the turbo is back on the truck and again it ran fine until it got up to temp. This time the actuator got stuck at 93% and I lost all power, egt’s skyrocketed. I just coasted for a bit then it freed up and ran ok for the last little bit home. This all happened in a 10 mile drive. So now I have a truck I don’t trust to drive. I’m pretty sure I’m going to order the aftermarket actuator and give that a shot. I just don’t know what else to do.
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Sorry to hear the bad news. So it sounds like they did not install a rebuilt actuator and you are still dealing with the original? I don’t have a fix, but if you are still running the original actuator I would recommend going with the City Diesel aftermarket based on the review from @cwendel
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
Yep I’m going to call Geno’s today and get it on order. I don’t know what else to do at this point.
Hey jeeper I had the same issue. I would say almost a month ago engine light came on when starting the truck and had a loss of power (no boost) kept kinda driving and after a few seconds it “woke up.” Now lately the codes comes on intermittently but everything is working fine.. I just paid $3200 for my front end to get redone. Wife is gonna make me sell my truck if this stuff keeps happening LOL. How long were you having the issue?
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I have been having exhaust brake issues for about 3-4 months. I decided to start by deleting my truck becasue by DPF was pluged after about 125,000 miles of driving bone stock. I knew that I would still have turbo issus after the delete and I did. So I brought it in and had it rebuilt locally. I'm still having issues after round two of rebuild / cleaning. So I'm 90% sure its an actuator problem, but it could be something inside the turbo is warping when it gets hot causing the issue. Wishing I would have just gone with a new turbo at this point. I have gotten pretty good at pulling the turbo I had it out in less than 2 hours the other day and back in last night in about an hour and a half. (Not a skill I want to be good at)
Based on what is happening, I would advise a couple of things.
1. Make sure you have a good tune and that it has not become corrupted.
2. Have the batteries load tested to make sure you have good cells in all. A bad cell will cause a problem on these trucks but won't keep them from starting. I am suggesting this since you say that revving the engine can get the actuator working so you may have a low voltage issue.
3. After all is said and done, shoot the rebuilder and do put in the new actuator. I say the third because your turbo soots up due to the vanes sticking. This results in bad fueling which results in the excess soot. Not enough air flow means bad fuel mix. Then the actuator is too weak and the vanes stick.
That has been my issue for over 8 months. It has probably led to other problems in my system but that has been it.
And my wife wants me to sell my truck too, tired of not being able to go camping this past season.
Make sure to clear the codes from the ecm before you install the actuator. Even if they do not appear, clear the codes as it will reset fuel map adjustments and any pending issues that may be hidden by your tune.
2013 2500 6.7 cummins crew cab. white and stock as can be
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