2011 Holset HE351VE possible actuator issue

[Jeeper89]

Over the last few months I have been having some issues with my truck (2011 3500) throwing all sorts of codes. I have since thrown in a MM3 tuner and a DRD upgrade kit. Truck runs way better, but I was still getting some turbo related codes. P2262 Boost pressure not detected and P226C Boost control slow to respond. I was also having issues with my exhaust brake not working. Now that I can monitor the actual and desired VGT position I have noticed that my VGT was sticking like I had figured. So this past weekend I pulled the turbo and Monday morning dropped it off at a local shop to have it rebuilt. I got it back yesterday and they said everything tested fine and it just needed a good cleaning. Last night with help from my amazing wife I put the turbo back in the truck and took it for a shot drive. All went well. This morning on my way to work it was fine until the truck got warm. Now I am having the same exact issues... Could my actuator be acting up when it's getting warm? I'll be calling the shop here shortly to get their input, but wanted to consult the guys and gals in the know here. Thanks in advance.

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[watersupply189]

Over the last few months I have been having some issues with my truck (2011 3500) throwing all sorts of codes. I have since thrown in a MM3 tuner and a DRD upgrade kit. Truck runs way better, but I was still getting some turbo related codes. P2262 Boost pressure not detected and P226C Boost control slow to respond. I was also having issues with my exhaust brake not working. Now that I can monitor the actual and desired VGT position I have noticed that my VGT was sticking like I had figured. So this past weekend I pulled the turbo and Monday morning dropped it off at a local shop to have it rebuilt. I got it back yesterday and they said everything tested fine and it just needed a good cleaning. Last night with help from my amazing wife I put the turbo back in the truck and took it for a shot drive. All went well. This morning on my way to work it was fine until the truck got warm. Now I am having the same exact issues... Could my actuator be acting up when it's getting warm? I'll be calling the shop here shortly to get their input, but wanted to consult the guys and gals in the know here. Thanks in advance.

Yes sir it could be the actuator.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, Rough Country Leveling, HID headlights, Morimoto LED fogs plus a whole lot more!

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[Jeeper89]

I just called the shop that rebuilt the turbo. THey are saying one of three possible causes.
1: The acturator could be acting up when it gets warm, something about a diode causing communication issues. They bench tested the actuator but its at room temperature.
2: It could be completely carboned up again...I've driven it like 30 miles I seriously doubt that is the case.
3: It could be because of the deletes the turbo isn't acting like its supposed to. (BS cop out in my opinion)

They want me to clear the codes and drive it to see if any codes come back. I'm 99% sure I will get the exactly the same two coeds I have had for the last few weeks. In any case they are saying the turbo will need to come back off the truck because they don't have a way to calibrate it while on the truck... Looks like I can add turbo removal and installation to my resume. Although the aftermarket actuator that Genos sells is looking very tempting.

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[RamIt]

Have you searched the forum yet?

There's numerous threads on the topic that might provide you with some insight.

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[Jeeper89]

I have been spending the last few months researching all this stuff. I don't recall seeing anything where people had VGT issues only after the truck gets warmned up. Due to people having issues with it sticking and going with a rebuilt/ new or aftermarket upgrade turbo I made the decistion to have mine rebuilt locally. Like I say the actuator tested fine on the bench but is only acting up while warm. I will be looking into AlpaOBD I seem to recall that one can calibrate the actuator with that. I'm just quickly running out of funds to throw at this truck.

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[AK Bob]

I just called the shop that rebuilt the turbo. THey are saying one of three possible causes.
1: The acturator could be acting up when it gets warm, something about a diode causing communication issues. They bench tested the actuator but its at room temperature.
2: It could be completely carboned up again...I've driven it like 30 miles I seriously doubt that is the case.
3: It could be because of the deletes the turbo isn't acting like its supposed to. (BS cop out in my opinion)

They want me to clear the codes and drive it to see if any codes come back. I'm 99% sure I will get the exactly the same two coeds I have had for the last few weeks. In any case they are saying the turbo will need to come back off the truck because they don't have a way to calibrate it while on the truck... Looks like I can add turbo removal and installation to my resume. Although the aftermarket actuator that Genos sells is looking very tempting.

One way to confirm the problem is heat related would be to spray the actuator with Freezit when it acts up and see if that corrects the actual vs desired positions. Just a thought.

https://www.chemtronics.com/freeze-it


2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.

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[Jeeper89]

One way to confirm the problem is heat related would be to spray the actuator with Freezit when it acts up and see if that corrects the actual vs desired positions. Just a thought.

https://www.chemtronics.com/freeze-it


2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That's thinking outside the box for sure.

I'll have to see if I can find a can or two of that and give it a go, not sure I can hurt it at this point.

I went out at lunch and cleared the codes and took it for a drive and it was fine, but I didn't have a chance to get it warmed up good.

It's snowing and 34 deg. today in West Michigan.

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[Jeeper89]

I called the rebuild shop back just to get a price on a new actuator. Had to go through the entire break down of all the events again and he is placing blame on my tuner. I even explained that it was doing this before the tune and that part of the reason I went with a tuner. He’s going to do some digging and call me back. I was just kind of hoping they would give me a break on an actuator. I’m not placing blame on their rebuild at all. I report back with what I find out.

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[cwendel]

If you have a bottle of canned air, just turn the bottle upside down and spray the actuator. Works the same as the bolt freeze stuff.

Keep us updated as i am in the same boat as you and trying to find an actuator that is not a house payment and is an improvement.

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[cwendel]

I am starting to believe the actuators fail as they get warm. My EB would stop working for awhile after using it with high idle to warm up the truck in the winter. I am starting to think this is where the issue begins.
I also don't like the fact that if i buy a 'new' unit they want mine back as a core, seems kinda sketchy as to why they fail.
I have sent a message to Geno's about the unit they sell for the 2013 and up as my truck is a 2013 and actuators cost twice as much as those for your truck. And yes, i have reset my actuator by pulling it. The lever was a little sticky but freed up quick with a little moving. The truck acted way better for about two starts.

Also, have you run a desoot on your truck yet? It seems that has the effect of helping to free up the VGT.

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