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Thread: Headlight Assembly Changeout

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    Bobtipton's Avatar

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    Headlight Assembly Changeout

    Broke the lens on passenger side headlight. How difficult for someone with two left hands to install a new one? How much other stuff has to be removed? 2010 RAM 3500. Any tips/tricks?

    Thanks!

    Bob


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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  3. Top Of Page | #2
    No Vacancy Power247's Avatar

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    Re: Headlight Assembly Changeout

    Quote Originally Posted by Bobtipton View Post
    Broke the lens on passenger side headlight. How difficult for someone with two left hands to install a new one? How much other stuff has to be removed? 2010 RAM 3500. Any tips/tricks?

    Thanks!

    Bob


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    It's really not that bad at all.

    I find it easiest to remove the grill to gain access to the screws that hold in the headlight.

    Also there is a clip that you access from inside the fender well that has to be released. With the screws out and the clip released you pull on the headlight to release it from a ball socket holding near the fender.

    If you have a plastic panel stick you can use it to pry between the fender and the headlight to help release the ball from the socket. The main thing here is to make sure you are pulling straight out on the headlight. In all, probably an hour job max for the first time you do it.

    Like everything else, there are YouTube videos that can show you process but really,,it's a piece of cake.

    Greg
    2012 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | MM3 tuned by Double R Diesel
    2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310

    Greg
    2019 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | 6.4 HEMI

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  5. Top Of Page | #3
    InlineSix.7's Avatar

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    Re: Headlight Assembly Changeout

    Quote Originally Posted by Power247 View Post
    It's really not that bad at all.

    I find it easiest to remove the grill to gain access to the screws that hold in the headlight.

    Also there is a clip that you access from inside the fender well that has to be released. With the screws out and the clip released you pull on the headlight to release it from a ball socket holding near the fender.

    If you have a plastic panel stick you can use it to pry between the fender and the headlight to help release the ball from the socket. The main thing here is to make sure you are pulling straight out on the headlight. In all, probably an hour job max for the first time you do it.

    Like everything else, there are YouTube videos that can show you process but really,,it's a piece of cake.

    Greg
    2012 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | MM3 tuned by Double R Diesel
    2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310
    Greg good advice here for sure!

    That ball socket got me too when I was changing out my headlight assemblies.

    I remember the ball socket had a release latch and I had to push it down in order for the headlight to let go.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    2012 Ram 2500 Laramie 4x4 Crew Cab 6.7 Cummins. RevMax built 68RFE "550" transmission w/ billet flexplate/low stall triple disc TC/direct oiling billet input shaft. 35"x12.50" Toyo Open Country AT2 tires on OEM 20" wheels, Thuren soft ride front springs, Thuren track bar, Thuren upper and lower control arms, Hellbent steering box brace, King 2.0 steering damper, Redhead steering box, Fox 2.0 shocks, Carli ball joints, Caterpillar fuel filter/Donaldson water separator, ARP 425 head studs, Viair onboard air compressor, airlift 5k# rear airbags, V4 LED headlights, Kenwood head unit

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  7. Top Of Page | #4
    MOD watersupply189's Avatar

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    Re: Headlight Assembly Changeout

    Great advise from Greg!

    Also when pulling your grill out, pull straight towards you and not at an angle.

    Those tabs at the bottom are easy to break off.


    2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, Rough Country Leveling, HID headlights, Morimoto LED fogs plus a whole lot more!

    2016 RAM 3500 4x4 Laramie Crew Cab
    Cummins,G56, Rough Country level, Morimoto LED fog lights, LED headlights, Lund Attitude Steps sprayed with Line-X, DRL's Activated, 35x12.50R18 Falken Wildpeak ATW3, Fuel Vapor Wheels Matte Black w/Dark Tint, A.R.E. Truck cap and swing boxes

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  9. Top Of Page | #5
    Bobtipton's Avatar

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    Re: Headlight Assembly Changeout

    Quote Originally Posted by Power247 View Post
    It's really not that bad at all.

    I find it easiest to remove the grill to gain access to the screws that hold in the headlight.

    Also there is a clip that you access from inside the fender well that has to be released. With the screws out and the clip released you pull on the headlight to release it from a ball socket holding near the fender.

    If you have a plastic panel stick you can use it to pry between the fender and the headlight to help release the ball from the socket. The main thing here is to make sure you are pulling straight out on the headlight. In all, probably an hour job max for the first time you do it.

    Like everything else, there are YouTube videos that can show you process but really,,it's a piece of cake.

    Greg
    2012 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | MM3 tuned by Double R Diesel
    2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310
    OK - I think I can get the grill off. Looks like a couple screws on top along with a couple of those serrated fittings in the middle, and a couple of clips/tabs on the bottom.

    Looking at the fender wells, looks like a couple of access doors behind the headlight - would be great if I could gain access through those without having to remove the entire fender well. Is that what those are for?

    I don’t have a plastic panel stick - what might substitute?

    Thanks!

    Bob


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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  11. Top Of Page | #6
    Basic Member AKram2500's Avatar

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    Re: Headlight Assembly Changeout

    Yeah, those access doors give you access to the sliding clip to remove the headlights. If i remember right, i think you slide it up to disengage? once you take the grille off, it's way easier the next time around!


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  13. Top Of Page | #7
    No Vacancy Power247's Avatar

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    Re: Headlight Assembly Changeout

    Quote Originally Posted by Bobtipton View Post
    OK - I think I can get the grill off. Looks like a couple screws on top along with a couple of those serrated fittings in the middle, and a couple of clips/tabs on the bottom.

    Looking at the fender wells, looks like a couple of access doors behind the headlight - would be great if I could gain access through those without having to remove the entire fender well. Is that what those are for?

    I don’t have a plastic panel stick - what might substitute?

    Thanks!

    Bob


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    You could get by with a plastic putty knife, just don't want to use anything metal.
    Panel removal tools are cheap and you'll be amazed how many other uses you will find for them. I have this one from Amazon, it's $5. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7XNQHG..._OeRUDbCF8RYMA



    Greg
    2012 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | MM3 tuned by Double R Diesel
    2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310

    Greg
    2019 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | 6.4 HEMI

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  15. Top Of Page | #8
    InlineSix.7's Avatar

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    Re: Headlight Assembly Changeout

    Quote Originally Posted by Bobtipton View Post
    OK - I think I can get the grill off. Looks like a couple screws on top along with a couple of those serrated fittings in the middle, and a couple of clips/tabs on the bottom.

    Looking at the fender wells, looks like a couple of access doors behind the headlight - would be great if I could gain access through those without having to remove the entire fender well. Is that what those are for?

    I don’t have a plastic panel stick - what might substitute?

    Thanks!

    Bob


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Bob
    Yes that’s correct. Remove the bolts for the grill and then give it a careful yank towards you and it will pop out of the tension clips. Just open up the access doors in the fender wells and you can get to the back of the headlight. No need to remove the entire liner.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    2012 Ram 2500 Laramie 4x4 Crew Cab 6.7 Cummins. RevMax built 68RFE "550" transmission w/ billet flexplate/low stall triple disc TC/direct oiling billet input shaft. 35"x12.50" Toyo Open Country AT2 tires on OEM 20" wheels, Thuren soft ride front springs, Thuren track bar, Thuren upper and lower control arms, Hellbent steering box brace, King 2.0 steering damper, Redhead steering box, Fox 2.0 shocks, Carli ball joints, Caterpillar fuel filter/Donaldson water separator, ARP 425 head studs, Viair onboard air compressor, airlift 5k# rear airbags, V4 LED headlights, Kenwood head unit

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