Thanks Ray,
Looking up the codes and possible problems, is it possible that it could be the PCM?
Thanks Ray,
Looking up the codes and possible problems, is it possible that it could be the PCM?
That is possible.
Ray,
Double R Diesel
Is there a way to test it?
Like a Chrysler tech told me once, "If you rule out everything else, then you replace the ecm". So there is no test to see if the ECM is the actual problem.
Ray,
Double R Diesel
I'm not an expert but we just trouble shot almost identical symptoms on a completely different vehicle. 4 different codes, intermittent problem, caused the vehicle to stop running or run badly.
It was a faulty body ground, took 12 hours of trouble shooting and I was about to replace the ECU. We ran a single bonding wire attaching all rear body grounds and the problem is solved. The bad body ground looked 100% perfect, no rust, no oxidation, showroom perfect.
I checked and cleaned all the grounds under the hood except the ground cable on the battery. I seen there is a ground on the frame under the drivers door that I need to clean. Can you explain the "single bonding wire attaching all rear body grounds" I'm willing to try that.
So my gremlin still exist.
I keep getting code P06D3 Sensor reference voltage 5 circuit low.
What I have discovered is when pulling a load mainly up hill the truck will sputter and loose power and throw the code and check engine light comes on.
What I have noticed is that the rpm's are getting down to about 1500 rpm and the truck should be automatically down shifting.
If I manually shift gears and keep the rpm's up 1800 plus the truck works great. Also, I feel my fuel mileage is suffering.
So here is my thoughts on this. I have already changed the crank and cam sensor's, and am wondering if the MAP and Mass Air Flow sensor's are bad.
The truck starts easy and runs fine, I just feel I should be getting better fuel mileage (about 16 mpg actual).
Another thought is that a solenoid in the tranny (Asisn) is bad.
Any input would be appreciated.
So now here is another update:
I was talking on my phone and looked outside at the truck and the gauge lights are on and the menu and radio screens both flash on and off. Now I'm really confused......arrrrg. The truck is off and the key is out.
I checked and cleaned all the grounds under the hood except the ground cable on the battery.
I've seen there is a ground on the frame under the drivers door that I need to clean.
Can you explain the "single bonding wire attaching all rear body grounds" I'm willing to try that.
Sounds like the single bond being referred to would be: run a seperate ground conductor either to the frame or body or both. Even come right off the battery with a length of #8 or #6 high strand count wire. Bypassing the factory jumped. Sometimes those bonding straps will actually oxidize on the inside. I don't recall if they are copper clad or solid copper, clad is no good. Regardless, testing with a bypass jumper will give you an idea.
Low RPM sounds suspicious though. Either there is a high high resistance that is over come by the higher RPM or the alternator just isn't putting out what it should be at the lower RPM which should be carried by the batteries. Did you replace both batteries or just one?
I chased similar gremlins and understand the frustration.
Thanks for keeping us updated.
What year truck is this?
2012 Ram 3500 Laramie, 3" BDS Coil over, DuraFlap, 68RFE, 4.10, 35s, Front receiver, Krown protected
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