Recalls and restoring emissions.

[AmericanWolver]

Hello all,

I bought the truck in my sig 2 years ago and the previous owner had already deleted using EFI (I think.) I thought this was a bonus as my county in Utah didn't do emissions testing. Then the governor signed a bill requiring it only on pickups (some yahoo rolled coal in front of a state congressperson in Provo.) So, I found all the parts and then some that I needed off of a 2016 Mega cab with 3k miles or so. Everything bolted up just fine. I've got extra parts as I didn't need everything. But, I ended up not having any of the NOx sensors, only needed the rear. That brings you up to speed.

I brought my truck in this past week to have some recalls done (water pump, brake interlock, occupant restraint, tailgate and the SCR.) Asked them to reflash the ECM to finish the restore. Got the truck back after 2 days and the DEF shows empty (I filled it up with 5.4 gallons at a bulk dispenser before I took it in.) When I got it back the invoice shows they inspected the SCR for ammonia (they left the old SCR in place, I crawled under and looked.) They installed the new NOx sensor and inspected and cleaned the connectors on the wiring harness for a cost of $906. Nowhere on the invoice does it show an ECM flash, but they did check for software updates.

The service manager told me to drive for a little while and it will see the DEF in the tank. Been almost 200 miles since and no change.

So I hooked up my scantool and took a little look. On a cold engine, all my 4 of my EGTs are showing 302 degrees (it was 45 out.) The pre and post NOx sensor is reading -100ppm. After driving for 20 min or so, no sensor readings changed during the drive. I do show an exhaust pressure reading .04-5.0 psi or so. And I don't see any PIDs for the DEF system. No codes are showing.

So question/concern time:
1. I thought the SCR recall required replacement, not inspection.
2. Did they not flash the ECM?
3. Would the DEF gauge read without the flash?
4. Anyway to verify that any of the emissions are working?
5. Anything else I need to worry about?

I've got to get it inspected by the end of the month to get my tag renewed. I can get a 15 day temp if needed. The worst part of the emissions testing is if you show up deleted, they red flag it and you need to show them all new parts when you go back in for the re-inspection.

I eventually want to get the EGR less emissions tune from DRD and down the road hit a speed bump and this nonsense fall off again.

This is my first diesel pickup. I've been driving the big diesels for 15 years. Ram seems to make things more difficult than they need to be compared to my ISX Pete.

Thanks in advance for your help.

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[Power247]

It sounds to me that the dealership did not flash the ECM and that is why the EGT sensors are reading higher then actual temps. Since you do not have the tuning device to return your truck to stock programming you are going to have to get that done, sooner than later. Is there another dealership you can try?

Greg
2012 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | MM3 tuned by Double R Diesel
2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310

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[AmericanWolver]

Thanks for the reply Power247, I went to the closest and largest dealer in the area.

There are 2 more within 30 minutes, one of which is in the town I work out of.

The only issues is I work weird hours. I leave for work around 3pm and get home around 3am.

Can't exactly drop it off in the morning and pick it up on the way home. Going to the dealer is usually reserved for days off.

I'm going to call the one that did the "work" and find out what their explanation for what they did and to clarify the SCR recall question.

I'll post back when I find out more.

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[AmericanWolver]

The saga continues:

Got back from the stealership today. Another $100 for them to flash it when I asked for them to do it last week. They agreed it wasn't flashed based on the readings I got from my scantool. When I picked it up last week, the DEF gauge was reading empty. I asked a service manager about that and she said just drive it, it'll start to work and they didn't have time to look at it. So, I got the flash done, the DEF gauge is reading and a bunch of codes popped up:
P242D - EGT Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 3 (Found to be barely unplugged, dealer said mechanic verified all connections. Yea right. He also left the radiator cap off from the water pump recall.)
P02E9 - Diesel Air Intake Position Sensor (It was unplugged)
P2495 - EGR Cooler Bypass Flap Position Sensor (Again, unplugged)
P90562 - System Undervoltage (I'm showing 13 volts after the flash on the EVIC, I was at 14v. After 3rd or 4th start, no more error code, still shows 13v on the EVIC.)

On my way home from the dealer, the DPF 90% full message came on. I figured it might have been from driving if for 4 days without a Regen (thanks to the dealer not flashing it.) Fixed the EGT probe that was unplugged and did a poor man's Regen (might need to do it again from a problem later found with another EGT probe mentioned below.) Hooked up a 6500 lb trailer and took it for a 2 hour drive. The DPF message disappeared as I was hooking up the trailer. Hmm...

During my test drive, the engine died 3 times at a full stop. Sounds like the vanes on the turbo closing like it does for the accelerated warm-up. Starts right back up with no issues and idles fine till I drive it a little more, stop and it dies. Feels like its choking from lack of air. Any suggestions? Was not doing it before I plugged in the 3 sensors above.

None of the codes above came back on the drive, but 3 pending codes did:
P04DB - CCV system disconnected (I changed the CCV filter at 65k and now have 101k. Will check everything around it to make sure it's good. Does it need to be changed already?)
P2456 - DPF Pressure Sensor Circuit Intermittent (I think time to go check make sure it's plugged in all the way and clean it. Let it cool down first.)
P2472 - EGT Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 4 (My scantool is showing it reading at 40 degrees when other sensors are up over 500. Might be bad, gonna replace with OEM, cheaper than parts store.)

So, that brings everyone up to date. I'll post back when I figure more out.

Thanks again for the help.

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[TexNeck]

The saga continues:

Got back from the stealership today. Another $100 for them to flash it when I asked for them to do it last week. They agreed it wasn't flashed based on the readings I got from my scantool. When I picked it up last week, the DEF gauge was reading empty. I asked a service manager about that and she said just drive it, it'll start to work and they didn't have time to look at it. So, I got the flash done, the DEF gauge is reading and a bunch of codes popped up:
P242D - EGT Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 3 (Found to be barely unplugged, dealer said mechanic verified all connections. Yea right. He also left the radiator cap off from the water pump recall.)
P02E9 - Diesel Air Intake Position Sensor (It was unplugged)
P2495 - EGR Cooler Bypass Flap Position Sensor (Again, unplugged)
P90562 - System Undervoltage (I'm showing 13 volts after the flash on the EVIC, I was at 14v. After 3rd or 4th start, no more error code, still shows 13v on the EVIC.)

On my way home from the dealer, the DPF 90% full message came on. I figured it might have been from driving if for 4 days without a Regen (thanks to the dealer not flashing it.) Fixed the EGT probe that was unplugged and did a poor man's Regen (might need to do it again from a problem later found with another EGT probe mentioned below.) Hooked up a 6500 lb trailer and took it for a 2 hour drive. The DPF message disappeared as I was hooking up the trailer. Hmm...

During my test drive, the engine died 3 times at a full stop. Sounds like the vanes on the turbo closing like it does for the accelerated warm-up. Starts right back up with no issues and idles fine till I drive it a little more, stop and it dies. Feels like its choking from lack of air. Any suggestions? Was not doing it before I plugged in the 3 sensors above.

None of the codes above came back on the drive, but 3 pending codes did:
P04DB - CCV system disconnected (I changed the CCV filter at 65k and now have 101k. Will check everything around it to make sure it's good. Does it need to be changed already?)
P2456 - DPF Pressure Sensor Circuit Intermittent (I think time to go check make sure it's plugged in all the way and clean it. Let it cool down first.)
P2472 - EGT Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 4 (My scantool is showing it reading at 40 degrees when other sensors are up over 500. Might be bad, gonna replace with OEM, cheaper than parts store.)

So, that brings everyone up to date. I'll post back when I figure more out.

Thanks again for the help.

Keep us posted- this is the second thread in the past week with going back to stock.

I know the other one had to log some miles on factory setting to get the CEL to clear.

Hopefully it all works for you.

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[AmericanWolver]

Well, looking better.

I ended up replacing 2 EGT probes with new ones. The DPF full alert is now gone. Took for a test drive and my scantool showed EGTs on the DPF around 1070 at its peak temp. Thinking I had a Regen going and drove for 40 minutes to give it a chance to work. (Took a while to get to that temp.)

Now Torque Pro wasn't showing any codes, but the CEL was still on. Used a different app (OBD Link) and saw a P2454 and a P02E7. Tried to clear them and the app just fought but finally relented. The P2454 still remained. (Might swing by the auto parts and use their code reader to try to clear.) Think I'm going to drive it a day or 2 to see if things settle down. Then again, I might bite the bullet and get the DPF pressure sensor and its ridiculously marked up price.

5 days till the end of my registration. May end up having to get the temp extension.

Keep us posted- this is the second thread in the past week with going back to stock.

I know the other one had to log some miles on factory setting to get the CEL to clear.

Hopefully it all works for you.

Thanks for the info. I drove it yesterday for about 90 miles towing my neighbors Grand Cherokee (needs a new PCM, it's backordered but the GC is on my trailer still from its ride from the tranny shop.) to give it a good chance for the Regen but found out I had yet another bad EGT probe.

I took off the DPF sensor to find one of the ports is cross threaded (I think the dog did it) and blew it out with canned air. Tore into the CCV side, didn't see anything wrong and put it back together (that actually got rid of the code.) Changed out the bad EGT probe discovered on the drive and went for another 40 mile run. It did stall on me like previous with the turbo vanes closing, but by the time I got home, it was behaving normally. Thinking TexNecks suggestion of driving it some to see if the CEL goes away is the right course. My commute is 54 miles round trip, I'll give it a couple of days. Maybe the computer has to relearn the baseline for all the sensors and positions. My dog learns faster than this truck.

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[smartdave]

Once you clear all the issues causing a CEL it will take a few hundred miles and two active DPF Regens to set the emissions monitors. Just FYI

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[AmericanWolver]

Once you clear all the issues causing a CEL it will take a few hundred miles and two active DPF Regens to set the emissions monitors. Just FYI

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the heads up. If there is currently a code (such as my P2454) will it clear after a few Regens or do I need to replace that sensor?

Edit: Found a potential generic for the DPF differential pressure sensor. If it works and I need it, I'll post the part number and MFG.

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[AmericanWolver]

Just thought everyone would like an update. I got a P04DB code. Replaced the CCV filter out of concern (since I was deleted, I extended the oil change interval with approval of Amsoil after a clean oil analysis.) Cleared code... 2 days later, the code is back as pending. All hoses seem fine for the CCV. Bad valve or sensor?

Still have a P2454 code in the historic list. The other codes in the historic list have cleared. Torque Pro is showing 6 out of the 10 emissions test have completed, the other 4 are still incomplete. Any pointers to hurry this along on the drive cycle?

Still having the random stalling issue. Did it tonight on the way back from dinner. Come to a light, exhaust brake seems to kick on and then dies. Anyone have any pointers? The web seems to say everything from blinker fluid to turbo to torque converter. If I keep my foot on the throttle and up 100 rpm above idle, no issues of any kind. Could this be related to a Regen? Bad intake throttle valve/sensor (nobody seems to have the same name for it.)? I went 5 days with no issues on the stalling and it did it (or tired to) 5 times on the way home from dinner.

As promised I have an aftermarket number for the DPF differential pressure sensor. Mopar part 68085750AA or 68085750AB interchanges with a Dorman 904-7127. It's for medium and heavy duty trucks (think Peterbilt, Kenworth,) but it is an exact fit and the numbers molded in the plastic on it are all identical to the OEM. I installed it and it seems to work. Will keep you updated. The Dorman was $75 on Amazon.

I'm getting real close to throwing in the towel and take it to a local shop. I try to do all my own repairs as I can afford the truck, but not the mechanic to keep it rolling.

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[smartdave]

So I just went back to stock for my yearly emissions testing. This is my 7 or 8th year doing this, so I speak from lots of experience

There is no hurrying up the monitors. They require cycles to complete.

What monitors have yet to run? Usually within the first 50-80 miles (4-8 runs from cold ..which is coolant less than 140 degrees) you should get all but 2 set. These last two take the longest. One is heated catalyst and I forget the other.

These last monitors require at least 2 active Regens of the DPF. This requires the DPF to be loaded with soot, which driving around town causes. Driving highway speeds for extended periods allow for a passive Regen which is NOT what you want.

In the past this has been about 400-700 miles. Last year a got an edge CTS2 to monitor active Regens. It also displays DPF pressure differential so I know about when the DPF will Regen.

Once you get two active Regens you should have all but 1 monitor set. Most states (except CA) allow this for testing and will pass the vehicle.

This last time for me only took 185 miles to set all but 1 monitor. One trick I learned a few year back was... After testing was done and I get my sticker.. reprogram the ecm and drive 30 to 40 miles. This will ‘pre’ soot the DPF for next year

Of course as mentioned before, any CELs show up and this who procedure has to be redone

The moral of the story... drive as much as you can on back roads and soot up the DPF as much as possible. You absolutely need two active Regens to set the last two monitors


PM me if you want any more info




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