How is the prep process?
Do all the swirls and imperfection need to be buffed out first or is clay bar enough?
Yep, I'm new to the topic.
How is the prep process?
Do all the swirls and imperfection need to be buffed out first or is clay bar enough?
Yep, I'm new to the topic.
2012 Ram 3500 Laramie, 3" BDS Coil over, DuraFlap, 68RFE, 4.10, 35s, Front receiver, Krown protected
The amount of prep work you put in is solely based off what you want the results to be. The ceramic coating is basicaly a clear glass like polymer almost like an extra clearcoat once applied. So any imperfection that exist before you apply it will still be there.
Most of the time you start with a deep iorn remover decontamination wash, then a normal wash and clay bar. Then a 1 to 3 step paint correction process depending on how bad the original paint is. I would say atleast 75% of the ceramic coat process is prep work.
I know it seams expensive when you price it out but I've coated both my wifes Audi's and 1/2 of my Ram, I will tell you its alot of work to get it nice. And those guys earn there money.
Hope that helps some.
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2018 Ram 2500 Granite Crystal Laramie Sport 4x4 CCSB
Thuren 2.75 front with Fox RR/ 1.0 rear with .75 spacer and King 2.0/ Thuren frt/Rear track bars
American Racing ATX AX202 18x9 5"bs 35X12.5 Nitto Ridge Grapplers
ARE Camper Top
A buddy and me have been looking in to doing this to both our pickups. Is ceramic coating something your average guy can apply him self? Can you damage your paint in anyway if you dont know what your doing?
Anything is possible, in both regards to applying yourself or doing damage. However, using the correct tools and application process goes a long ways. You'll want to strip wash, decontaminate, and clay bar first. The polishing process is where most people get cold feet. For both beginners and pros, the DA polisher seems to be the tool of choice. Because of it's random action, the chances of you damaging your clearcoat or paint is very slim. However, that assumes you're using the correct polish for the application, correct pads and polishing speed, and using common sense as to how long to remain in one area. I try to use all one company brand polish so I know what can be used with what, and in what order.
The ceramic coating process itself is very easy. The only issues I can see with this is having visible high spots when done, and that can be fixed with a DA and a non-abrasive polish.
My recommendation is to look into the coating you wish to use and what they recommend. It's very doable by the average person.
Do you have any recommendations on coatings
2012 ram 3500 Laramie. 6.7 68RFE 3.73
Leveled on 35's
raceme ultra
Deleted
4 inch pipe
My personal favorite is CQuartz TiO2.
I've tried 3 different brands and this is my favorite.
In fact, next month I'm set to polish and re-coat my wife's Camaro.
I coated her car in CQuartz 2 years ago next month and it still beads water.
It's also still completely swirl free.
If you do coat your truck, don't forget it still requires maintenance to maintain it's condition.
We just had the wife's new 2020 Subaru Ascent limited ceramic coated.
The coating they put on it will last for 5 years, cost us $1300.
I can do all the small stuff just when it comes to a DA polisher I don't trust myself doing the prep work.
I'll end up getting my truck done at some point.
I know this is a little dated, but figured I could give my experience.
First, I'm not a detailer, nor do I care to spend a lot of time making the truck look pretty. I don't like the truck looking like it's been drug through mud pits daily, but I'm not a "show truck" kind of guy. I bought the truck new and wanted to give the paint a little bit of protection. I'm not willing to drop theoney for a professional ceramic coating, and I hate how careful you have to be with traditional wax. And I'm a cheap *******.
I tried Mother's ceramic spray. Initially, I was really impressed. Beaded water beautifully. Application was pain free, with no residue left on plastics. Hosed the truck off after some road grime accumulated over a couple of weeks. Still looked good. Water hose didn't get everything off, so I gave it another bath. The Mother's didn't really survive the wash. You could tell something was protecting the paint, but water wasn't really beading anymore.
I'm currently using Griot's Garage ceramic spray. This stuff has impressed me. Better beading than the Mother's, and stayed on for a couple of baths before it got to the same point as the Mother's. I'm happy enough that I'll stick with Griot's until the bottle is empty, then make a decision to try something new then.
Same ease of application as the Mother's. Wipe on, wipe off, try to keep it dry for a day. A few hours minimum.
Ceramic sprays will not buff out light scratches. My puppy likes to hang over the bed, so I have a few marks that need proper attention, but the ceramic stuff does give moisture protection.
Throwing some thoughts into the ring.
I’m a huge fan of the DIY CQuartz products.
I’ve used them over the last (almost) 6 years on 5 different vehicles.
My first swing at the bat has proved to be the most successful. 2011 Challenger SRT8:
It is a garage queen.
I only drive it 2-3k/year and only on nice days.
It has seen maybe 1 bout of rain since I bought it in early 2017.
The coating was still near perfect when I re-buff and re-apply last November.
This coating lasted over 4 years but only because it saw no inclement weather and was garage kept and only hand washed.
My other two current vehicles were given the same treatment (19 Ram 2500 and 22 Wagoneer).
The RAM is a better example of what to expect over time:
This was after application on a nearly new rig.
It has held up pretty well, considering it’s my Daily rig and sees all sorts of weather and stays in the driveway.
Also, it goes through a brush-style wash weekly.
There are definite swirls and imperfections after almost 3 years.
My plan is to re-correct and re-apply this fall.
Considering the truck's use, I’m pleased with how it’s held up.
The coating is still there-the water repelling properties remain.
I’m willing to bet it will require minor buffing to return the results I had at the initial application.
RAMs current state:
My wife’s Wagoneer is too recently new to give good data, but it does look good after 6mo:
The key to the ceramic coating is the same with anything—prep is everything.
Application of the coating is easy, spread on, wait, and wipe down.
It will only look as good as you get the paint before applying it.
It takes a full day to do the prep right-a good polisher and good cutting products will make all the difference.
Upkeep is just washing it and an occasional spray of the cquartz refresh spray (I haven’t done this at all on the RAM, I’m fairly religious about doing on the Challenger every 6mo or so).
There’s a reason a shop charges 2-5k to do this job.
However, anyone with some common sense can make it look good.
Here are the products I use: https://www.griotsgarage.com/g9-rand...SABEgKx3fD_BwE
https://www.chemicalguys.com/v36-and...SABEgLUWfD_BwE
https://www.autogeek.net/cquartz-50m...SABEgKZDvD_BwE
Amazon has decent deals on all—just grabbed random google links.
2019 Longhorn Mega 2500
2011 SRT8 Challenger
2022 Wagoneer Series 3
You have a true gift.
That Challenger probably didn’t look that good on the showroom floor!
Even with the best ceramic coatings on the market, and much elbow grease invested, most folks don’t get the results you have achieved on your vehicles.
Congrats!
I’m toying with the idea of doing my truck and maybe the front of my toy hauler.
Getting the baked on bugs off the front end of a big fiver is no fun.
2016 3500 Laramie Mega DRW Aisin 3.73
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