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Thread: Break Fluid

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    CMB's Avatar

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    Lightbulb Break Fluid

    If this has been covered I apologize but, what's the deal with changing the break fluid. I just learned this should be done every few years because break fluid attracts moisture. TRUE??

    I figure I would use one of those suction things that you put the juice over the Turkey to remove as much of the fluid from the master cylinder as I could. Then fill with fresh fluid - DOT 3 I believe. Just thinking through this, it may be better to bleed the closest caliper first. This way i remove the remaining dirty fluid from the master cylinder at the closer wheel. Then work to the passenger front then driver rear then passenger rear. This pattern may reduce the chances of drawing old fluid into the fresh fluid.

    Is this something i should add to the routine maintenance schedule? Does anyone else flush their break fluid? What bleed order do you follow?


    2012 Ram 3500 Laramie, 3" BDS Coil over, DuraFlap, 68RFE, 4.10, 35s, Front receiver, Krown protected

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    Shadow0341's Avatar

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    Re: Break Fluid

    Correct, brake fluid is Glycol based, which makes it absorb moisture. Moisture enters the brake fluid from pores in hoses, seals, joints ect. As brake fluid absorbs water it lowers its boiling point and performance, so it's good to bleed the brakes every couple years to keep the fluid is optimum condition. I usually do the furthest caliper to the closest.

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    walla2k5's Avatar

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    Re: Break Fluid

    X2, bleed furthest corner to nearest.

    2013 Ram 2500 Big Horn 4x4 G56 CCLB 6.7, MM3 Tuned by Double R Diesel, Flo-Pro 4" Exhaust, Deviant Race Parts, ARP Head Studs, Valair Quiet Dual Disc Clutch, 2" Level, Hell Bent Steel Steering Box Brace, Bilstein 5100 shocks, Thuren track bar, Air-Lift 5000, Falken 285/75-17 AT3W.

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