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Thread: Upgrading Valve Body After Deleting / Tuning?

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    Basic Member Shizzle's Avatar

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    Upgrading Valve Body After Deleting / Tuning?

    2014 2500 4wd EZ Lynk & CTT tuning, it has 52k miles on it.

    My plans were DNJ plate & filter adapter, BD pan, and the Sonnax accumulator plate & pistons.

    Would adding a BDS protector 68 or ATS separator plate beneficial?

    Do I need to change the solenoid pack if I’m not having issues with it?


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    TexNeck's Avatar

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    Upgrading Valve Body After Deleting / Tuning?

    My understanding is you can keep a solenoid pack.

    I just talked to Brad at BD the other day about this, and the main benefit is added line pressure to add for clutches.

    With stock vb and tuning, you’ll have 170-180 psi with their kit; you can run up to 250 psi.

    The stock VB will wear out with the higher line pressures, so it’s not a permanent fix, but it will delay failure for OD clutches with added power.

    I think for the money, spend it on a full VB.

    The thermal bypass could be a good upgrade while you’re in there.

    If you need parts, hit up Clayton with Dudes Diesel Performance, a vendor on here, and he will hook you up!

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    Basic Member Shizzle's Avatar

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    Upgrading Valve Body After Deleting / Tuning?

    Yeah forgot I put the bypass on already.

    Im just not sure if anyone has combined a DNJ plate with a BD or ATS separator plate.


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    Upgrading Valve Body After Deleting / Tuning?

    I put in the Revmax valve body recently.

    I only have 15k miles on the truck.

    I did not change the solenoid pack.

    The guy at Revmax I talked to about that topic said he would not change it, so I didn't and had no issues.

    I also installed the thermal bypass.

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    TH-64's Avatar

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    Upgrading Valve Body After Deleting / Tuning?

    I ran a BD separator plate for a couple of years.

    Ray tuned the line pressure to 250 psi for me, which worked great.

    However, two weeks ago, I got the P0871 code, which likely means a cross leak in the valve body somewhere.

    A RevMax valve body went in ten days ago, and all is well.

    If I were to do it over, I'd go with the Revmax in the first place.

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    2012 CCSB Saddle Brown Pearl... DRD tuned

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    Basic Member Shizzle's Avatar

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    Upgrading Valve Body After Deleting / Tuning?

    I understand that the valve bodies get the cross leak because of the halves of the VB warps.

    I don’t see how Revmax addresses the warpage in one of their non-billet VBs; the billet version does(which looks like their regular VB with a DNJ half).


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  13. Top Of Page | #7
    TH-64's Avatar

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    Upgrading Valve Body After Deleting / Tuning?

    Quote Originally Posted by Shizzle View Post
    I understand that the valve bodies get the cross leak because of the halves of the VB warps.

    I don’t see how Revmax addresses the warpage in one of their non-billet VBs; the billet version does(which looks like their regular VB with a DNJ half).
    Cross leaks can also happen when the valve bores get worn, and the pistons get cocked in there.

    From what I understand. I did notice that the RevMax separator plate was coated with a rubber gasket material.

    Plus, the plate on the end of the valve bores was three times thicker.

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    Basic Member Shizzle's Avatar

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    Upgrading Valve Body After Deleting / Tuning?

    That’s a bonded separator plate, then.

    Im replacing the pistons with billet Sonnax ones along with their retainer plate.

    From what I have read, once the hard anodizing is worn off, the VB is shot, which is another reason why the older VBs had issues.

    Mopar didn’t anodize those till around ‘11 or ‘12.


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