Should I do a valve lash adjustment at any point? 2012 ram 3500 fully deleted. 135k miles.
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Should I do a valve lash adjustment at any point? 2012 ram 3500 fully deleted. 135k miles.
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2012 Ram 3500. Full delete. H&S mini maxx. NextGen valvebody. Fuel Maverick wheels, Toyo MT tires. 35/12.5/20. Amp power steps.
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Originally Posted by ThatsaCummins4ya
If I'm not mistaken around 150k or so is the interval but you can always do it at anytime if you feel it needs it.
It's never a bad idea.
Matthew 6:9-13, 2 Corinthians 5:20
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ThatsaCummins4ya thanked for this post
Any idea what a shop would charge? I don’t want to be responsible if I mess it up LOL. Seems simple judging by a video I watched but I’m just nervous about that kind of stuff.
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2012 Ram 3500. Full delete. H&S mini maxx. NextGen valvebody. Fuel Maverick wheels, Toyo MT tires. 35/12.5/20. Amp power steps.
Just take your time and follow the directions and you basically can’t mess it up. Adjusting the valves was the easiest part of the job when I did head studs!
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2012 Ram 2500 Laramie 4x4 Crew Cab 6.7 Cummins. RevMax built 68RFE "550" transmission w/ billet flexplate/low stall triple disc TC/direct oiling billet input shaft. 35"x12.50" Toyo Open Country AT2 tires on OEM 20" wheels, Thuren soft ride front springs, Thuren track bar, Thuren upper and lower control arms, Hellbent steering box brace, King 2.0 steering damper, Redhead steering box, Fox 2.0 shocks, Carli ball joints, Caterpillar fuel filter/Donaldson water separator, ARP 425 head studs, Viair onboard air compressor, airlift 5k# rear airbags, V4 LED headlights, Kenwood head unit
If i had to guess it would be anywhere between 200-400 hundred bucks depending on shop rates and what not. It's definitely not too hard and a fun little project. The number 6 is the worst because its under the fire wall haha. It's also easier with two people when your looking for top dead center. Other then that just have fun!
Matthew 6:9-13, 2 Corinthians 5:20
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ThatsaCummins4ya thanked for this post
Okay I think I’ll try it! How do you know when it needs to be done?
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2012 Ram 3500. Full delete. H&S mini maxx. NextGen valvebody. Fuel Maverick wheels, Toyo MT tires. 35/12.5/20. Amp power steps.
I had a bad rattle under acceleration that convinced me to do mine. It happened shortly after buying my 2012 with 155K. The exhaust valve on #6 was pretty loose. It’s not too difficult of a task just take ur time and you’ll be good. I’ve done it twice on mine now and once on a buddies. I personally wouldn’t pay a shop to have it done.
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ThatsaCummins4ya liked this post
Right on, I’m kinda stoked to do it now. Time to go order some feelers. What did you set yours at?
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2012 Ram 3500. Full delete. H&S mini maxx. NextGen valvebody. Fuel Maverick wheels, Toyo MT tires. 35/12.5/20. Amp power steps.
The first time I did it I did 6.7 spec so .010 intake and .026 exhaust. The truck wasn’t deleted at that time. Now that it’s deleted I did .010 intake and .020 exhaust the second time. .020 is still in the spec range for the 6.7 (.015-.034) and from everything I read it seemed like that’s what a lot of people were doing.
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