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Thread: Headbolt Torque procedure

  1. Top Of Page | #1
    guru of all things diesel Canadiandiesel's Avatar

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    Headbolt Torque procedure

    as far as i know this is the layout for all cummins engines

    Torque the head to Cummins spec

    Step1- all bolts to 66 ft.lbs.
    Step2- recheck all bolts.
    Step3- all bolts to 89 ft.lbs.
    Step4- recheck all bolts.
    Step5- rotate all bolts an additional 90degrees-(bolts) if using Studs torque to-125 ft.lbs.
    Check valve clearance when done.
    Bring engine up to operating temperature(without driving!)
    Let engine cool down to about 95degrees to begin Line Torque Procedure.

    Torque pattern:


    Cumminsheadpattern.jpg


    ARP STUD INFORMATION

    now alot of people have been told that they should go past the 125ft lbs please dont, follow the what they tell you, arp has done years of testing and they are the people that have built the studs, not some off company. the old stud lube required you to torque the thing 5 times to get final torque however arp came out with a new lube in 2009 that is vastly superior to the old stuff which you only have to torque the studs the first time and recheck when the engine is hot. set, done and done type thinking on there part.



    To line torque head: (not ideal or recommended)

    Make a mark with a magic marker, so you have a reference point on top of the bolthead or nut(studs).
    Then start at the front(pass. side of head) bolt/stud-nut, loosen it up, then re-torque it to 125 ft.lbs.(studs) 90ft.lbs.(bolts.)
    Proceed down that line of bolt/studs, doing same thing, one at a time.

    *NOTE*
    If you notice more than 1/8th inch rotation of the bolt while doing last step, then you may have a bolt that has 'stretched'
    You need to pull that one out and measure it with a Cummins Bolt Guide, or Bolt Stretch Indicator.

    Do not forget to re-check valve clearances once procedure is done.
    Intake : .010"
    Exhaust : .020"


    Drive truck for the next week but keep the boost psi under 30psi during this time. (crucial)
    By doing this,the different heat cycles will get the head to 'settle' better.

    After a weeks time has passed, do the Line Torque Procedure again. Same exact way you did the first time. Drive it again for a week. And you can get into the pedal a little bit more but don't go maxing it out just yet.

    After a weeks time has passed again the head should have settled by now and you can do the last line torque procedure and you should be good to drive it HARD. (as long as you don't see any movement from your marks.)


  2. Top Of Page | #2
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    Step torquing is only necessary if the gasket is being replaced and the head has been pulled. If bolts are replaced by studs individually, they can be torqued to spec, then gone through the retorque sequence

    Agree with new ARP lube, multiple retorques are not necessary. It is still a good idea to measure/ check for stretch when using this lube


  3. Top Of Page | #3
    Inactive Vendor

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    You also need to have .25 inch machined off your rockers. it says it right on the instructions


  4. Top Of Page | #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Compressionign View Post
    You also need to have .25 inch machined off your rockers. it says it right on the instructions
    Only on 12Vs


  5. Top Of Page | #5
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    Correct


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