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Thread: Vibration Above 62 MPH

  1. Top Of Page | #1
    kaoticlife71's Avatar

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    Vibration Above 62 MPH

    2014 bighorn 4x4 55k on it 6" bds lift, fully deleted and tuned by DRD.

    The problem started about 3 months ago and have beat my head against the wall since.

    First noticed it when I bought some 35 in tires and had them installed on my stock wheels (only level kit at the time) vibration starts at 62 and kind of lightens up around 72 (not perfect but lightens).

    Since first noticing I have done the following: had tires re-balanced 4 times, swapped sides and front to back 2 times, bought brand new tires and rims, alignment of front and check alignment of rear, had one leaky seal on rear end fixed with new bearings and all, 6" BDS lift with fox shocks and dual front BDS steering stabilizer with fox shocks.

    There is no shaking of the steering wheel what so ever, the shake or vibration is felt/seen in the seats (you can make a milkshake on the passenger side) and I can feel it in the pedal if that makes sense.



    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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  3. Top Of Page | #2
    Daily Grinding! RamIt's Avatar

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    Had this problem with my Ram. It's something to do with the MT tread pattern. You can try balance beads because static balancing doesn't work for these very well.

    Also, I found out that my Fuel wheels didn't have the correct hub bore size either. So I had the wheels machined and ringed, that made a big difference too.

    But ultimately I put on a set of Methods and Toyo AT2 Extremes and never had an issue again.


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  5. Top Of Page | #3
    DIESELWRKS's Avatar

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    Good suggestions above.
    Also did the tires get road force balanced?
    I can't tell if your truck is a long bed, if so check rear most u-joint and with your lift kit if you have a carrier bearing (long bed) did the lift have shims?
    When I have felt the blender shake in the seat it was rear drive shaft for me.
    Also u didn't say if u are a 2500 or 3500
    . If a 3500 is the rear new lift using bracket and blocks? When's the last time you added grease to the joint on the shaft.
    Also if the vibration constant or a rhythmic cycle? If that makes sense. Are the tires load e or d?
    If e are you maxed out like 75 or 80 psi?
    Sorry lots of questions for you.

    Btw nice looking truck.

    2017 WON TON CC LB 68AUTO
    Secret stuff that make it vroom and whistle better Thuren 2.25 w/2.0 Fox Resi

    Justin
    Southern Oregon ( the Republican part)
    UNITEDSTATES MARINE CORPS 1993-2007
    No better friend, No better enemy.

  6. Top Of Page | #4
    kaoticlife71's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by DIESELWRKS View Post
    Good suggestions above.
    Also did the tires get road force balanced?
    I can't tell if your truck is a long bed, if so check rear most u-joint and with your lift kit if you have a carrier bearing (long bed) did the lift have shims?
    When I have felt the blender shake in the seat it was rear drive shaft for me.
    Also u didn't say if u are a 2500 or 3500
    . If a 3500 is the rear new lift using bracket and blocks? When's the last time you added grease to the joint on the shaft.
    Also if the vibration constant or a rhythmic cycle? If that makes sense. Are the tires load e or d?
    If e are you maxed out like 75 or 80 psi?
    Sorry lots of questions for you.

    Btw nice looking truck.
    I dont think they were road force balanced, tires are E rated, it's a 6.4 standard bed 2500 (no carrier bearing). Truck rides/drives smooth as glass at speeds up to around 60 mph, tires are at 65 psi and rear lift was new coil springs . On another note if I have a 65 gallon drag up tank/toolbox combo that stay full of fuel if that makes a difference? Truck is going to another shop 80 miles away on sat and I told the guy I dont want it back until it's right. Let's hope that doesnt mean pulling the radiator cap and driving a new one underneath it. LOL

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  7. Top Of Page | #5
    No Vacancy Power247's Avatar

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    I had a similar issue when I went from factory 17"rims & 305s to 20s & 35s. It was finally turned out to be the front end alignment was out. This was after several attempts at rebalancing the tires. The guy that finally diagnosed it said he could tell it was alignment issue by the way the tread lugs on the tires were starting to scallop on the trailing edge. The front half of the lugs were literally wearing faster than the back. I noticed immediate improvement after the new alignment but it still took about 2000 miles for the tires lugs to wear back flat and get back to a totally smooth ride.

    Greg
    2012 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | MM3 tuned by Double R Diesel
    2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310

    Greg
    2019 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | 6.4 HEMI

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  9. Top Of Page | #6
    Daily Grinding! RamIt's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by kaoticlife71 View Post
    I dont think they were road force balanced, tires are E rated, it's a 6.4 standard bed 2500 (no carrier bearing). Truck rides/drives smooth as glass at speeds up to around 60 mph, tires are at 65 psi and rear lift was new coil springs . On another note if I have a 65 gallon drag up tank/toolbox combo that stay full of fuel if that makes a difference? Truck is going to another shop 80 miles away on sat and I told the guy I dont want it back until it's right. Let's hope that doesnt mean pulling the radiator cap and driving a new one underneath it. LOL

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    65psi is a lot for MTs. I ran 50-55 in mine.

    The road force balance wont matter. Mine were road forced 5 times and the balance was never right. Try the simple route and throw some balance beads in the tires and see how that works for you


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  11. Top Of Page | #7
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    Ahhh Another lifted truck.

    When you lifted the truck that high, it changes the angle of the drive shaft. This causes extra stress on the U-Joints. You may want to look there.

    I have been an anti lift advocate. The older members know why. Being an engineer, it's left a lot of bad things in my mind.


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

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  13. Top Of Page | #8
    kaoticlife71's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Polaraco View Post
    Ahhh Another lifted truck.

    When you lifted the truck that high, it changes the angle of the drive shaft. This causes extra stress on the U-Joints. You may want to look there.

    I have been an anti lift advocate. The older members know why. Being an engineer, it's left a lot of bad things in my mind.
    It was doing it prior to the lift. Had the lift on for a week now. Been doing it for 3 months. Pinion angles are spot on.

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  14. Top Of Page | #9
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by kaoticlife71 View Post
    It was doing it prior to the lift. Had the lift on for a week now. Been doing it for 3 months. Pinion angles are spot on.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    OK Cool. A Lot of experience and wisdom drove my opinion. I'd still take a close look there.

    Is there any cupping on the rear tires? If so rotate the tires. Then it will move to the front for a while.

    Not sure what the thread pitch is all about.


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

  15. Top Of Page | #10
    kaoticlife71's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Polaraco View Post
    OK Cool. A Lot of experience and wisdom drove my opinion. I'd still take a close look there.

    Is there any cupping on the rear tires? If so rotate the tires. Then it will move to the front for a while.

    Not sure what the thread pitch is all about.
    Yes sir I get ya on the personal experience. Had my share of good and bad with lifted trucks. I will definitely look at it all. The tires are wearing perfect so I'm still scratching my head on this one. Thought it may have been the install of the front bumper because that was the time frame it has been on but the alignment was good before the lift and after lift and no steering wheel shake at all. Maybe the added weight of the 65 gallon drag up tank/toolbox? But that was installed after it had started so doesnt seem likely. The aftermarket wheels were purchased after it had started as well. So had a set of 20x12 wheels(no vibration with them just didnt like that they stuck out so far with a -44 offset) on then went back to stock wheels with new 35's shop told me one of the tires was out of round so went with a new set of Yokohama 35's and shop then said it must be wheel bearing and seal and of course it was still there afterwards. Balanced, balanced and then Re-balanced. Truck is not a daily driver as I have a company truck and when I pull stuff I use my 2nd gen dually so it's more of a weekend cruiser but cant stand the vibration when we do take her on a road trip....

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