Not same problem I was experiencing, I had the opposite happen, very little boost and no EB.
Did you checkout the post @RamIt provided earlier?
Good luck finding a solution.
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Not same problem I was experiencing, I had the opposite happen, very little boost and no EB.
Did you checkout the post @RamIt provided earlier?
Good luck finding a solution.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Yes, sounds like it could be actuator.
Just want to be sure.
Anyone have a good recommendation for a shop in SoCal?
Anyone have anything new they can add to this topic?
I can't speak for the entirety of this community, but I don't recall there being a large number of members in SoCal.
If you were in AZ or TX I could point you in a few places.
I know nothing about California.
I’m in Queen Creek, AZ.
I just had my truck scanned and had several codes come up:
U010C
P003A
P0046
P00AF
I will need shop info if you have any please!
Probably a bad turbo actuator.
Only shop info I have is my dealership but that's going to be expensive.
2021 3500 Mega HO DRW
Literally just had those same codes minus the P00af.
I got a new turbo and actuator out of it literally a week after I bought it.
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I had the same thing happen after an oil change.
The turbo boost is still perfect and most of the time.
The check engine light goes off. I know there is a connector for the actuator near or behind the filter.
Anyonebelse have this happen?
You may have a loose or intermittent connection at the turbo actuator.
Attached is additional troubleshooting information for this code.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
Yes, just about $4K really.
Snoop around for a turbo actuator, hint, if you get one from Holset in a Holset box, much less than one with a Mopar box, but the same part. You will need to drain off coolant to do this, so please, install fresh coolant when you do it. Do you use HOAT or OAT coolant? Find out, mine was HOAT (pink) and I think OAT is blue. I used genuine Mopar pink stuff, pre mixed with embitterment.
Actuator is easy to remove really, behind RF tire well, but you need to calibrate it before installing. You plug it in, run a test, you need a bi directional scanner to do this or AlfaOBD if you have a 2013 or later.
Plug unit in, not installed, run sweep, install and fill coolant. Be careful to purge the air out of your EGR cooler when adding coolant back in, air bleed, if you dont, can overheat and crack, get coolant into your EGR system and find out quickly that liquids dont compress as your ECM command EGR and get a mouthful of coolant into engine intake and (((BOOOOOM))). Open bleeder till coolant comes out.
If done right, you can get by for under $1500 bucks, dealer out the door is just shy of 5K.
Good news RAM is extending the warranty on these, not sure on all. Im very familiar with this because pal with a 2015 failed, he had dealer do it after crying to mfg (only 32K miles) and they split the bill with him. Then he gets notice of extension on warranty and is waiting to hear back for reimbursement of his paid $$$ already.
2010 Dodge 2500 SLT CCLB 4WD G56 Cummins 6.7 turbo diesel, 3.42 LSD. Add ons: Banks Monster Ram, Grid heater delete, Spyntec Free Spin Kit with Warn hubs (62672) Laramie Alloys (includes spare), "Powerwagon" Flares, Powerwagon bed decal (4X4 off road) OE Ram mudflaps, OE Slush Mats, OE Clearance Lamps, Geno's shift knob in black, 5" DPF back with muffler delete, spray in bedliner, OE brake controller, Durafit Seat Covers, Pro Tech Toolbox, Speed Turtle, Upfitter switches, Ham Radios, 8 Antennas, headache rack, emergency light bar,....
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