I’m sure someone who went thru this will chime in soon friend.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 (DRD), G56, 6.7, Rough Country Leveling, HID headlights, Morimoto LED fogs plus a whole lot more!
I’m sure someone who went thru this will chime in soon friend.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 (DRD), G56, 6.7, Rough Country Leveling, HID headlights, Morimoto LED fogs plus a whole lot more!
2016 RAM 3500 4x4 Laramie Crew Cab ,G56
So, yes. You need to pull the actuator off and check the vanes move full range. You can also clean the vanes by using intake valve cleaner to spray in from the downpipe end to clean the vanes.
But, you do need to recalibrate the actuator when you reinstall it. No way around it. The fact you are getting the codes means the actuator is not moving to the correct positions and sets the codes. You most likely need a new turbo at those miles as the vanes are sticking.
2013 2500 6.7 cummins crew cab. white and stock as can be
using Tapatalk
@cwendel
Thank you for your help! Yeah I've read in other forums that when you take the actuator off to check the arm movement that you could trace the arm where it is, move fully left and right and if everything is ok then put it back in the trace marks. That way you wouldn't have to calibrate, but I wasnt sure if I wanted to believe that. That's why I wanted to get better advice before I did something like that and mess something up. Calibrating is my biggest dilemma. I can do anything and everything else but I don't have the tools/programming to calibrate it since I'd be doing this at my house. I'd have to get it towed somewhere to have it calibrate.
Would it be worth taking the turbo off and cleaning it thoroughly?
I saw some people post links to upgraded billet actuators that you replace the circuit board stuff inside and it does away with that problem. Anyone know anything about that? Pros or cons? I've also seen VGT to NON VGT conversion kits.
If I do need a turbo would it be better to go with one of those conversion kits with the stock turbo selection?
Has anyone seen anything about a P2426 code as well?
Sorry for all the questions and if I sound like a big dummy. I just want to make sure I cover everything before I do anything.
I REALLY appreciate everyone's help on this too!
To fully clean the turbo you should remove and rebuild it.
When the actuator is removed, you should recalibrate it. The reason is the calibration sets the range of motion the system uses to determine the position of the vanes. The simple act of recalibrating the unit can fix the codes for awhile. All of the YouTube videos have one problem, the position has to be exact. You can get a Bluetooth dongle and get Alfaobd to recalibrate the turbo. It is probably one of the best purchases you can make for working on your truck.
The other actuators are designed to determine the end points of motion everytime you turn the ignition on. That is why they do not need 'calibration' because they automatically do it.
But, you can get a new actuator from bd diesel and the Alfaobd stuff for less than the actuator from Geno's. The geno's unit is great, but there are other ways to save money.
If you are ready to change turbos, just go buy one and go from there. Many come with an upgraded actuator and I think it is the same type of unit that geno's sells on some of them.
2013 2500 6.7 cummins crew cab. white and stock as can be
using Tapatalk
As to the p2426 code, clean the egr valve and the bypass valve.
2013 2500 6.7 cummins crew cab. white and stock as can be
using Tapatalk
@cwendel
Thank you very much! I thought that the "tracing the arm" thing sounded kinda weird and that's why I didnt really believe it. I am definitely going to look into that Bluetooth dongle and Alfaobd tonight. Until I'm able to get one of those, so I can do calibration myself, I'm going to check and see if anyone I know has the right software stuff to do it for me so i can go ahead and check the movement on that arm.
As far as removing, cleaning and rebuilding the turbo. Are there any parts that I need to replace when rebuilding it? Do you think it would be worth removing, cleaning, rebuilding and reinstalling?
When cleaning the EGR and bypass valve. Is there anything special I should use to clean it or would brake cleaner and a wire brush be good?
CWendel
Is there any Bluetooth dongle that you recommend or any that I should stay away from?
I got the obdmx+.
I bought that one because it let's Alfaobd access all of the modules without adapters.
It also has enhanced features for your other vehicles and works with every program out there.
2013 2500 6.7 cummins crew cab. white and stock as can be
using Tapatalk
CWendel, Thank you.
That's what I read today on the Alfaobd website, that the obdlink mx+ is the better choice.
I've found them online for like $99 and up.
I'll have to do some more searching and get that and the Alfaobd download.
I'm glad you told me about out this because I would've had to find someone to calibrate the actuator.
Now when I get this I can do a whole lot more than that.
So when I take the actuator off and if the movement isnt what it is suppose to be would you recommend me taking the turbo off, disassembling and clean it thoroughly?
It is up to you. If you have the time and the skills, yes.
I believe the biggest issue is that carbon builds in the groove the vane ring sits in and limits movement.
2013 2500 6.7 cummins crew cab. white and stock as can be
using Tapatalk
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