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Thread: 2019 2500 Laramie Build

  1. Top Of Page | #161
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    Re: 2019 2500 Laramie Build

    Quote Originally Posted by IGOTACUMMINS View Post
    Check our FB page.
    Thanks for the share!

    Always appeciate the love!

    3.25" Carli Pintop|King 2.5" Reservoir Shocks|Carli Torsion Sway Bar|17x8.5" Method 105 Beadlocks|37" Nitto Ridge Grapplers
    CDJR Sales Consultant in Phoenix - Let me help you with your next CDJR purchase!

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  3. Top Of Page | #162
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    Re: 2019 2500 Laramie Build

    This morning I decided to pop the end links off the rear sway bar after reading an article about the Carli pintop setup I have.

    All I can say is, wish I would’ve done that sooner. It’s amazing how much smoother the on road drive is + the amount of extra articulation I get out of the rear axle.

    3.25" Carli Pintop|King 2.5" Reservoir Shocks|Carli Torsion Sway Bar|17x8.5" Method 105 Beadlocks|37" Nitto Ridge Grapplers
    CDJR Sales Consultant in Phoenix - Let me help you with your next CDJR purchase!

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  5. Top Of Page | #163
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    Re: 2019 2500 Laramie Build

    In an interesting turn of events...I might be getting new shocks.

    My Kings have decided to act like bricks and no longer compress correctly...after 6 months and 5000 miles.

    So Carli is RMA'ing them and the truck will be down for a bit.

    Not really sure what went wrong, but I guess we will find out soon.

    3.25" Carli Pintop|King 2.5" Reservoir Shocks|Carli Torsion Sway Bar|17x8.5" Method 105 Beadlocks|37" Nitto Ridge Grapplers
    CDJR Sales Consultant in Phoenix - Let me help you with your next CDJR purchase!

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  7. Top Of Page | #164
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    Re: 2019 2500 Laramie Build

    Climbed under the truck tonight as I've been experiencing some steering wheel shake lately around 50mph.

    I know my truck needs an alignment, badly, but I did happen to find that my drag link adjuster clamp was barely tight.

    Was getting some noise out of the drag link while shaking it.

    So threw 55 ft-lbs at it and seems OK now.

    Guess we'll see how the drive tomorrow goes.

    Since FCA got rid of the weird shuttle style drag link for the 5th gens, this clamp seems to be the new point to keep your eyes on.

    Especially if you're off roading the truck.

    Once my shocks get replaced/rebuilt I'll have the whole front end shook out and aligned & hope that eliminates the shaking I've been having.

    Other than that, nothing new to add to this thread.

    Unless someone knows of anyone who makes hood mounts for ditch lights for the 19+ trucks...I'd really like to get some lighting on this pig.

    3.25" Carli Pintop|King 2.5" Reservoir Shocks|Carli Torsion Sway Bar|17x8.5" Method 105 Beadlocks|37" Nitto Ridge Grapplers
    CDJR Sales Consultant in Phoenix - Let me help you with your next CDJR purchase!

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  9. Top Of Page | #165
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    Re: 2019 2500 Laramie Build

    Well everyone it’s been a minute since I’ve posted up. Work has me running 70 hours a week so not much free time. Per usual, I suck with remembering to take pictures, sorry.

    Kings are back on, 2 had bypassed so they were rebuilt but all 4 had almost no nitrogen in them. Other two checked out which is great. Got all 4 back gassed up and the truck rides beautifully.

    Just need to adjust the drag link a touch and I should be good to go.

    Also coming up on my first service interval, so that’ll be a fun time.

    3.25" Carli Pintop|King 2.5" Reservoir Shocks|Carli Torsion Sway Bar|17x8.5" Method 105 Beadlocks|37" Nitto Ridge Grapplers
    CDJR Sales Consultant in Phoenix - Let me help you with your next CDJR purchase!

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  11. Top Of Page | #166
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    Re: 2019 2500 Laramie Build

    First service time is here! Oil change is coming in a couple weeks, but my fuel filters hit 0% so I went ahead and took care of those this morning before adventuring out to the lake. For those that have 2019+ trucks, filter service is a little different than previous generations, and despite my best efforts, I still got diesel everywhere. (BTW, I actually took pictures this time!)

    Fun Fact: Just like on pre-2019 trucks, you have to drain the assembly, however, unlike the old spin off filters that actually drained completely...these new canister filters will stop draining out of the port but still have a ton of fuel inside of them

    So let's get started.
    Tools needed: 1/2" drive socket wrench, 28mm socket, 10"+ extension, swivel socket, gloves, towels, something to catch diesel fuel in.

    Parts needed: 68157291AA & 68436631AA

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Under the bed of the truck, next to the gas tank, and in between the driveshaft & exhaust is where you will find the fuel/water separator. Similar location to previous trucks. Only difference is that the petcock is on the side now vs the bottom. Use a hose, drain pan, or I used a water bottle to drain the fuel into. If the petcock is too tight to turn by hand, use can use a 8mm socket on it.

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	11719

    After the fuel stops draining out of the petcock valve, use your 28mm to loosen the canister. This is where I ended up with a mess of fuel, when I loosed the cap the fuel that didn't drain out the valve ended up running out over the lid :| keep your drain pan handy!

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	11720

    Once you've made your mess & removed the cap, the filter may come with the cap or it may be snapped into the housing..mine was attached to the cap (either way is fine). If the filter is on the cap, just keep note that there is still fuel inside of it - drain accordingly. If the filter is in the housing, you shouldn't have any more issues with fuel leaking everywhere. Here you can see the disassembled cap with filter attached.

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	11721

    Filter goes in here.
    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	14 
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ID:	11722

    I opted to install the filter back into the lid but you can snap it into the housing if you choose to do so.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1453.jpg 
Views:	14 
Size:	96.0 KB 
ID:	11723

    Moving on to the under hood filter. This is where things get a little more fun. Lid uses the same 28mm socket as the previous filter, but you may have to get a little creative with this one as the lid is on TIGHT.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1454.jpg 
Views:	14 
Size:	132.8 KB 
ID:	11724

    First start off with purging the fuel again. Only this time it's a little more complex especially if you're by yourself. So this yellow knob opens the drain port, which drains the fuel out of the rubber hose underneath.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1456.jpg 
Views:	14 
Size:	117.9 KB 
ID:	11725

    Top center of this photo is the drain hose for the filter housing. It's a clear hose, you can see it above the small black hose. I wedged a water bottle up into that spot and reached around the front part of the engine to open the valve.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1457.jpg 
Views:	15 
Size:	158.9 KB 
ID:	11726

    Once you no longer get fuel out of the housing, prepare to loosen the lid (keep in mind, more fuel will drain out once the lid is unscrewed). Your extension and swivel socket will be helpful here.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1455.jpg 
Views:	16 
Size:	189.2 KB 
ID:	11727

    How you get to the lid is up to you. You can drop the extension down by the cowl, or just grab it through the big opening. I had to skip the extension at first as the lid was too tight and the angle of the whole get up wasn't working. Bust it loose and spin it off, the rest is straight forward.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1458.jpg 
Views:	16 
Size:	138.4 KB 
ID:	11728

    When installing the new front filter, make sure it clicks TWICE before you put the lid on.

    Also, don't forget to change your o-rings. Finally, always make sure you prime the system before starting the truck, cycling your key to run 2-3 times will do the trick.

    After that, just reset your filter life indicator, crack a cold one, and move on to something more enjoyable than doing fuel filters on your Ram

    3.25" Carli Pintop|King 2.5" Reservoir Shocks|Carli Torsion Sway Bar|17x8.5" Method 105 Beadlocks|37" Nitto Ridge Grapplers
    CDJR Sales Consultant in Phoenix - Let me help you with your next CDJR purchase!

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  13. Top Of Page | #167
    Senior Member watersupply189's Avatar

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    Re: 2019 2500 Laramie Build

    Quote Originally Posted by RamIt View Post
    First service time is here! Oil change is coming in a couple weeks, but my fuel filters hit 0% so I went ahead and took care of those this morning before adventuring out to the lake. For those that have 2019+ trucks, filter service is a little different than previous generations, and despite my best efforts, I still got diesel everywhere. (BTW, I actually took pictures this time!)

    Fun Fact: Just like on pre-2019 trucks, you have to drain the assembly, however, unlike the old spin off filters that actually drained completely...these new canister filters will stop draining out of the port but still have a ton of fuel inside of them

    So let's get started.
    Tools needed: 1/2" drive socket wrench, 28mm socket, 10"+ extension, swivel socket, gloves, towels, something to catch diesel fuel in.
    Parts needed: 68157291AA & 68436631AA

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1449.jpg 
Views:	17 
Size:	163.2 KB 
ID:	11729

    Under the bed of the truck, next to the gas tank, and in between the driveshaft & exhaust is where you will find the fuel/water separator. Similar location to previous trucks. Only difference is that the petcock is on the side now vs the bottom. Use a hose, drain pan, or I used a water bottle to drain the fuel into. If the petcock is too tight to turn by hand, use can use a 8mm socket on it.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1462.jpg 
Views:	17 
Size:	128.0 KB 
ID:	11719

    After the fuel stops draining out of the petcock valve, use your 28mm to loosen the canister. This is where I ended up with a mess of fuel, when I loosed the cap the fuel that didn't drain out the valve ended up running out over the lid :| keep your drain pan handy!

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1451.jpg 
Views:	16 
Size:	145.0 KB 
ID:	11720

    Once you've made your mess & removed the cap, the filter may come with the cap or it may be snapped into the housing..mine was attached to the cap (either way is fine). If the filter is on the cap, just keep note that there is still fuel inside of it - drain accordingly. If the filter is in the housing, you shouldn't have any more issues with fuel leaking everywhere. Here you can see the disassembled cap with filter attached.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1450.jpg 
Views:	16 
Size:	184.7 KB 
ID:	11721

    Filter goes in here.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1452.jpg 
Views:	14 
Size:	136.9 KB 
ID:	11722

    I opted to install the filter back into the lid but you can snap it into the housing if you choose to do so.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1453.jpg 
Views:	14 
Size:	96.0 KB 
ID:	11723

    Moving on to the under hood filter. This is where things get a little more fun. Lid uses the same 28mm socket as the previous filter, but you may have to get a little creative with this one as the lid is on TIGHT.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1454.jpg 
Views:	14 
Size:	132.8 KB 
ID:	11724

    First start off with purging the fuel again. Only this time it's a little more complex especially if you're by yourself. So this yellow knob opens the drain port, which drains the fuel out of the rubber hose underneath.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1456.jpg 
Views:	14 
Size:	117.9 KB 
ID:	11725

    Top center of this photo is the drain hose for the filter housing. It's a clear hose, you can see it above the small black hose. I wedged a water bottle up into that spot and reached around the front part of the engine to open the valve.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1457.jpg 
Views:	15 
Size:	158.9 KB 
ID:	11726

    Once you no longer get fuel out of the housing, prepare to loosen the lid (keep in mind, more fuel will drain out once the lid is unscrewed). Your extension and swivel socket will be helpful here.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1455.jpg 
Views:	16 
Size:	189.2 KB 
ID:	11727

    How you get to the lid is up to you. You can drop the extension down by the cowl, or just grab it through the big opening. I had to skip the extension at first as the lid was too tight and the angle of the whole get up wasn't working. Bust it loose and spin it off, the rest is straight forward.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1458.jpg 
Views:	16 
Size:	138.4 KB 
ID:	11728

    When installing the new front filter, make sure it clicks TWICE before you put the lid on. Also, don't forget to change your o-rings. Finally, always make sure you prime the system before starting the truck, cycling your key to run 2-3 times will do the trick. After that, just reset your filter life indicator, crack a cold one, and move on to something more enjoyable than doing fuel filters on your Ram
    Excellent writeup!

    Thanks!!


    2016 Ram 3500 CC 4x4, G56, Dr. DRD medically cured!

    2016 RAM 3500 4x4 Laramie Crew Cab
    Cummins (DRD), G56, Rough Country level, Morimoto LED fog lights ,35W HID headlights, Lund Attitude Steps w/Line-X, DRL's Activated, 35x11.50R18 Falken Wildpeak, Fuel Vapor Wheels Matte Black w/Dark Tint, A.R.E. Truck cap

    2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4
    2019 Dodge Charger 392 Scatpack Plus

    Past - 2014 RAM 1500 4x4 Lone-Star Eco Diesel

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