Jim
2006 ~ 2500HD, Big Horn Edition, 5.9, 4x4, Q/Cab, 48RE, L/B, 3.73, S&B CAI & Snout, ProFlo 5" S/S exhaust, Smarty Touch, Oil ByPass Kit, 60 gal main tank, 110 gallon in-bed tank, XX-Fuel Filter System, Coolant Bypass Kit, Mag-Hytec front & rear end covers and trans pan, 285 x 70 x 17
"Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children’s children what it was once like in the United States, where men 'were' free." ~ Ronald Regan
Have you considered a gear swap? Say 4.10 or 4.56:1 ratio with the taller tires. Getting some torque multiplication back to the tires might be what you're looking for with the 90 hp tune.
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2012 Cummins Ram 6.7L MM3 tuner full 5" Flo Pro TBE Exhaust LWBCC 4x4 Mag Hytec Double Deep Transmission Pan , Mag Hytec Rear Diff Cover
Airlift part # 57595 7500lbs airbags ,Nitto Ridge Grapplers 35/12.50/20 on XD 829 Big Hoss ll Satin Black Machined Dark Tint 20 x 9 with + 18 offset rims,MM3 Tuner With full Custom Tunes by Ray at DRD , Autometer A13117 Pillar Pod , Edge 98004 mount adapter , Mag Hytec front diff cover, SuperNova V4 LED Headlight Bulbs
Having done quite a few of the older trucks (no i haven't played too much with the newer ones, as i just got mine as well) But I am pretty positive that a clutch upgrade will be in your near future, especially if you are gonna start throwing the power to it. We have run both South Bend and Valair clutches depending on the application that we were using for.
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Unless you have deep pockets, I never recommend high performance hardware like that for a tow vehicle. It has adverse effects on the drive train. Last thing you need it to have your toy hauler leaving you stranded with a load on it. Just my educated/experienced .002. You'd be better with the Shibby Engineering Air horn with the grid heater delete and, if needed, a remote grid heater. Talk to @Dude's Diesel Performance or @Double R Diesel about them. I don't give a scrap about all the hype on the other brands, Shibby is the best.
You'd e better off with a good tune from DRD with maybe a dedicated tow tune. It can easily be turned off.
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
That just doesn't sound any fun, I am way less responsible than that LOL.
I wonder if a T6 ball bearing Garrett would fly, I love them coming from the car world.
There are a lot of turbo's out there. I would probably contact BD Diesel performance and see what they recommend. I have a Super B Special on my 12V and that thing is a beast of a turbo. Once it spools its GONE!! I have towed with it many times, but being a 12V you gotta learn how to drive it. My truck really should have twins on it, but the special does a excellent job of clearing it up when its spooled right. I have it wastegated at 45lbs. But I'm telling you, the clutch will slip once you start slamming the power to them. We have toasted many.
Even if I get a SBC 3250 or stronger?
I just want a fun reliable 500hp-600hp. If I keep the fuel down I shouldn't have to worry about waste-gating it right?
That could add to the cost.
As you probably know and like Polarco mentioned it’s a slippery slope for reliability once adding power. Bottom line for 500-600hp reliability you will need (1-3)
1. Upgraded clutch- trans is no fun but if you are spending money adding power you need to get it to the ground.
2. Anything over 35psi boost you are flirting with blowing the head gasket.
3. DRD tuning all the way - his tunes are super efficient and fun to drive with.
4. Personal opinion is 2nd gen swap for a 467 or similar size. It’ll spool like stock. EGTs will stay down with the new manifold location.
If budget isn’t a problem then compounds with stock turbo and then 480 or something. The pusher kit looks nice. The stock turbo can cause issues but there are several available since a lot of guys pulls them and they can be had for $500 ish. Swapping a replacement shouldn’t be too hard with pusher kit I don’t believe
For 2nd gen swap
Over 2k rpm boost will instantly light for 10psi to 40+
Clayton over at Dudes diesel is awesome to work with and can hook you up with everything you want and need. I defiantly recommend a clutch even though the parts you can’t see aren’t as fun to buy. If you weren’t so worried about reliability I’d say throw power to it and let us ride until you blow a clutch then replace it.
Keep us posted!
2013 Ram 2500
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Can you explain the fuel distribution block and benefits? I understand all the other items on the list.
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