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Question....I’m seeing prices all over the place for just the throttle valve delete and wanted some opinions. Is it really
necessary to spend sooooo much on this piece? From what I gather you shouldn’t skimp on the EGR delete for obvious reasons however this piece is just a chuck of metal that lets air pass through freely. Am I correct on that statement? If so, what would be the reasoning for the huge price differences? Thanks.
Jaxonsram thanked for this post
Name influences the price for one.
Prices are a little different per each manufacturer. Some are made cheaply and some are made with billet which will be more expensive. The reason for getting rid of it is to get rid of the possibility of a mechanical failure just like the egr. Some also have heaters in them so you can get rid of your grid heater and get something much smaller allowing you to have more air flow.Originally Posted by .44mag
As long as you get a name brand there is no reason to go wild for this part unless you have some money burning a hole in your pocket. The reason why i mention name brand is due to the fact that they spend more money on fitment and what not. The cheaper stuff sometimes doesn't fit very well and then you may be stuck with a useless piece of metal LOL.
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@Dudes Diesel Performance, yes agreed. I'm at work couldn't type much at the time.
When I did my egr/cooler delete I got mine off amazon for $50 but I did compare it to the more expensive ones and it was one that came with every part needed. Quality made also.
I've been up in the air about my grid heater and throttle valve. Don't know if I'm going to replace them with the deletes or gut/remove the grid and valve and leave like that. I normally plug my truck in when it's cold any way even though it doesn't get THAT cold in middle GA but once a blue moon. I've had the grid heater power wire, to the relay from right battery, unplugged for a while now and my volts jump to 14.2-14.5 almost instantly.
Jaxonsram thanked for this post
FYI... @.44mag ... I live just above ya buddy and except for 'bout 4 years ago, we don't get cold enough to have to plug them in. And when I seen the -7 degrees once, it stilled fired up like a trooper. So normally in winter I wouldn't worry 'bout your heater if you're normally locally.
Jim
2006 ~ 2500HD, Big Horn Edition, 5.9, 4x4, Q/Cab, 48RE, L/B, 3.73, S&B CAI & Snout, ProFlo 5" S/S exhaust, Smarty Touch, Oil ByPass Kit, 60 gal main tank, 110 gallon in-bed tank, XX-Fuel Filter System, Coolant Bypass Kit, Mag-Hytec front & rear end covers and trans pan, 285 x 70 x 17
"Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children’s children what it was once like in the United States, where men 'were' free." ~ Ronald Regan
Jaxonsram thanked for this post
@AnOldBiker nice. Yes I understand that it doesn't need to be plugged in. Call me a worry wort, I guess, I just didn't like the load the grid heater was putting on the batteries while it was cycling so much. Yeah I know it all cycled even after being plugged in, just didn't seam to be as much.
I don't even like using the automatic head light function because they stay on after the truck is shut down for X seconds.
Call me weird.
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