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Thread: Deleting Friday, removing exhaust difficulty?

  1. Top Of Page | #11
    Basic Member TUNED18's Avatar

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    Re: Deleting Friday, removing exhaust difficulty?

    Quote Originally Posted by allbizns View Post
    If your just doing a delete pipe it shouldnt be too bad. Just some sensors, the CAT and DPF. From my understanding its when you do a turbo back the downpipe clamp at the turbo can be a pain at times. You going to leave the EGR in place? Sounds like just a DPF delete your doing?

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    Yes sir leaving EGR in place for the time being (a few months) any drawbacks to leaving it in? And correct, I’m deleting DPF and cat. Not turbo back.


  2. Top Of Page | #12
    allbizns's Avatar

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    Re: Deleting Friday, removing exhaust difficulty?

    The only drawback would be that the cooler could start leaking coolant into the intake. But from my understanding that hardly ever happens. I think its just more of a peace of mind for some guys, I think the biggest reason most do it is to mainly clean up the engine bay and remove the clutter.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

    2018 Ram 2500 Granite Crystal Laramie Sport 4x4 CCSB
    Thuren 2.75 front with Fox RR/ 1.0 rear with .75 spacer and King 2.0/ Thuren frt/Rear track bars
    American Racing ATX AX202 18x9 5"bs 35X12.5 Nitto Ridge Grapplers
    ARE Camper Top

  3. Top Of Page | #13
    ZeroSignal's Avatar

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    Re: Deleting Friday, removing exhaust difficulty?

    I deleted my 2018 a little less than 6 months ago. I did the entire job in my driveway, with the truck on the ground. It took me 5-6 hours from start to finish.

    The two most difficult aspects of removing the exhaust are the exhaust hangers, and making sure you disconnect ALL of the sensors on theDPF and SCR canisters. Also, be careful with the SCR DEF injector line. It will leak a small amount of DEF when you pull it loose. I saved all of my OEM parts, just in case I ever need to revert it to stock. Be careful “dropping” the canisters out from under the truck so you don’t damage them. Your band clamps and exhaust hardware should come apart fairly easily. My truck was a California truck as well, and had never seen salt or bad weather J

    I deleted my EGR cooler without draining the coolant from the entire engine. I had a quart-sized paint cup that I used to collect coolant when I pulled the hard line off of the cooler. Drain the coolant if you want, but I feel like it's an unnecessary step. Even if you drain all of the coolant from the engine, there will be quite a bit trapped inside the cooler, so you're still going to spill some when you remove it. Which brings me to my next tip... when you pull the cooler out of its bracket, try to keep it as level as possible to keep from spilling coolant in your engine bay or on your paint. The 2 rear bolts on the EGR cooler are the most challenging. A ratcheting box-end wrench is your best friend.

    Don't forget to either unplug, or delete the throttle valve, too. I bought a $30 throttle valve delete kit off eBay, and it works just fine. I didn't want to risk having the butterfly valve malfunction and close up on me while driving.


  4. Top Of Page | #14
    TexNeck's Avatar

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    Re: Deleting Friday, removing exhaust difficulty?

    All good info in here.

    I recommend a decent size pry bar (I used 32”) which make the hangers pretty easy to pop off.

    Also I used a ratchet strap to pull then SCR from tailpipe as it was stuck in there. Hook through where a mounting bolt goes then the other at the cross member near the end of the down pipe. Watch your toes!

    Pretty painless over all- enjoy the new beast!

    2013 Ram 2500
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  5. Top Of Page | #15
    mseitz24's Avatar

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    Re: Deleting Friday, removing exhaust difficulty?

    Good size channel locks work good for getting the hangers loose. Open them up all the way, put one side on the front/button part of the hanger and the other on the back side of the rubber and squeeze. A little lube helps too. I just did a full 5” this past weekend with my 10 year old in a few hours. If I were you i’d loosen the rear most clamp, pop the rear most hanger free so you can twist the exhaust free. This is the only portion that is slip together so it would be hard to just pull apart. Unplug all the sensors and unbolt the middle 2 sections, pop the hangers free and drop out. Install new parts and rear section from front to back and you’re done. Not having to mess with the downpipe you should be done in a couple hours. I didnt have any issues with the heat shield so you may want to assess that situation yourself before you drop the tire and remove it like some suggested.

    2013 CCSB 2500 G56 Tradesman

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  7. Top Of Page | #16
    Basic Member TUNED18's Avatar

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    Re: Deleting Friday, removing exhaust difficulty?

    Thank you guys for the wealth of information, I’m excited to tackle my first mod on my first Diesel, confidence is high!


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  9. Top Of Page | #17

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    Re: Deleting Friday, removing exhaust difficulty?

    How significant is the down pipe in terms of getting full effect of an exhaust delete? Is it worth the effort or not that much of a factor if staying with 4” all the way?

    I have a 2004 QC/LB, btw.

    Second question, how much more improvement do you get going to 5” compared to the extra cost over a 4” delete? and is it much more difficult routing the pipes with 5”?

    2004 Ram 2500 5.9L HO, QC/LB 4x4 Laramie (stock), LT265x70R70 Toyo M-55

  10. Top Of Page | #18
    mseitz24's Avatar

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    Re: Deleting Friday, removing exhaust difficulty?

    From what I’ve read 5” isnt really necessary unless you’re pushing big HP or just prefer the sound of the 5” over 4. I went with 5 right off the bat because i knew I would eventually and figured just do it right from the start. I dont think an aftermarket 4” downpipe could give you any benefit over stock. Its basically a 3’ section with a 45% bend so theres not much to improve on. I didnt have any issues getting the 5” in there. Getting to the rear hanger could be a little tricky if i ever have to get it out but dropping the spare tire and heat shield would solve that.

    2013 CCSB 2500 G56 Tradesman

  11. Top Of Page | #19
    Basic Member Controlled_Pair253's Avatar

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    Re: Deleting Friday, removing exhaust difficulty?

    Quote Originally Posted by RockNWood View Post
    How significant is the down pipe in terms of getting full effect of an exhaust delete? Is it worth the effort or not that much of a factor if staying with 4” all the way?

    I have a 2004 QC/LB, btw.

    Second question, how much more improvement do you get going to 5” compared to the extra cost over a 4” delete? and is it much more difficult routing the pipes with 5”?
    I have a 5 tbe. It sounds great, until you're running 65 on the freeway and you hear the drone for 4 hours......I went straight to 5 from stock, so I don't have a reference for deleted 4 ti deleted 5. Good luck.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


  12. Top Of Page | #20
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    Re: Deleting Friday, removing exhaust difficulty?

    Quote Originally Posted by steven85 View Post
    I've deleted 2 2500's. My 16 and wife's 17. Did both of them by myself on the ground. Took about 3ish hours. Make sure to install mm3 and tunes first. WD-40 or PB blaster is definitely needed on the hangers. I did 5 inch exhaust on both trucks so I had to remove the downpipe. I dont believe you need to remove it with a 4 inch exhaust (the downpipe is a pain in the axx to re install by yourself). You DO NOT need to drop any crossmembers for exhaust install. Theres roughly 7 sensors in the factory exhaust. Remove spare and heat shield then work from rear to front on exhaust. The SCR on both the trucks needed to be banged/kicked with a good amount of force rearward for it to fall off. For install, I found it easier to start with the rear first (over axle) then move to the front and work back. Leave brackets loose as it makes it easier to install hooks on the hangers. Once adjusted tighten up bolts and reinstall spare. I put the heatshields back on but its up to you. As far as the DEF tank, you can remove it along with the crossmember (sucker is heavy and is only meant to support the DEF tank) or remove tank and flush out with water and reinstall. Its a fairly simple install, just a little time consuming.

    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
    I honestly hadn't looked, but I believe all the 4th gens include a Catalytic converter. At least up to 13 they had them. It's supposed to be a $50,000 fine (Max) if removed.

    Back in 08, we had the converter, and NOX canister and a DPF. It was considered voluntary for the NOX and DPF up to 2010. Then all emissions were mandatory. Catalytic converter's were mandatory since mid 2004.

    Needless to say, I was one of the pioneers of the EGR removal. Shibby Engineering and I developed the first air horn that had high flow and allowed the EGR, or deleted. He shortly later made the true 6.7 air horn. H & S and i worked together to make it code free. I beta tested 86 different versions of code free software. Dealer had a pigeon.

    FYI about the olden days. The old man busted his butt for all this


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

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