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Thread: Front end noise

  1. Top Of Page | #1
    Western's Avatar

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    Front end noise

    Alright goes so this has been going on for about 3 weeks now and I just cant seem to figure it out. Everything pointed to the front left wheel bearing/hub assembly. So i replaced it no problem (even found one of the 4 bokts missing and replaced it) noise went away for about 3 to 4 days I think (truck is fully deleted hard to hear quite noises) it came back Wednesday some time. Last night on my way home i switched to 4wd lock and the noise went away immediately so it has me thinking it has to be in the front axle now. If anybody has any knowledge on this or ideas of what to check I am open to any and all help.

    Thanks again guys!!

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


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  3. Top Of Page | #2
    CAPTAJR's Avatar

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    Re: Front end noise

    More than likely it's the U-joint. I just replaced both of my fronts a couple weeks back.


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  5. Top Of Page | #3
    Western's Avatar

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    Re: Front end noise

    Quote Originally Posted by CAPTAJR View Post
    More than likely it's the U-joint. I just replaced both of my fronts a couple weeks back.
    Is there a way to check the u joints?
    And how hard are they to replace?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


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  7. Top Of Page | #4
    CAPTAJR's Avatar

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    Re: Front end noise

    I usually just grab the joint and wiggle it and see if it has any play. If you can move it up and down or side to side, it's gone. Its not hard to change, just make sure you get the correct part if thats the culprit. P358A from NAPA if memory serves me correctly.


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  9. Top Of Page | #5
    Western's Avatar

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    Re: Front end noise

    If thats it itll be a huge stress reliever. I'll check it here shortly. Now would it cause anything else to go bad?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


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  11. Top Of Page | #6
    CAPTAJR's Avatar

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    Re: Front end noise

    Probably not if you catch it in time, just check your wheel bearing and hub when you pull the hub, but it should be fine. If your rotors have never been off, be prepared to fight them a little bit and make sure you have a socket that will fit the castle nut before you start. It takes me about 2 hrs. per side to do mine in the driveway.


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  13. Top Of Page | #7
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    Re: Front end noise

    Rotating new tires helps with noise. I had the same growl and thought it was a bearing. Look for cupping on the treads.

    Jack up the corner so the tire is off the ground. Lay under there with a flash light and rock the tire back and forth. Watch the contact points in the joint. Also look for rust coming out of the cups.


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

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  15. Top Of Page | #8
    Western's Avatar

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    Re: Front end noise

    Quote Originally Posted by Polaraco View Post
    Rotating new tires helps with noise. I had the same growl and thought it was a bearing. Look for cupping on the treads.

    Jack up the corner so the tire is off the ground. Lay under there with a flash light and rock the tire back and forth. Watch the contact points in the joint. Also look for rust coming out of the cups.
    Tires are pretty much gone as far as tread waiting for another paycheck to replace them.

    Where were you saying to look for rust?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


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  17. Top Of Page | #9
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    Re: Front end noise

    Quote Originally Posted by Western View Post
    Tires are pretty much gone as far as tread waiting for another paycheck to replace them.

    Where were you saying to look for rust?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
    right where the joint goes intothe cups. You'll see it.


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

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  19. Top Of Page | #10
    DIESELWRKS's Avatar

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    Re: Front end noise

    Hello, I’m a newmember and don’t want to bust on you, may want to consider moving this to an appropriate area since this was posted in the Fuel system. This may help another member searching down the road.

    You said that all things pointed to your wheel bearing. Can I ask how that was determined and could you describe the sound you are hearing for us. I don’t believe anyone had asked that and it wasn’t explained. Is the sound at a certain speed only. Is it when you are driving straight. Or more so when you put some turn in thewheel. Is it more aggressive when you are slower and turning sharper into a drive way. Is the sound more metallic sounding, is the sound cyclic? As in like spinning. Do you by chance feel anything in the steering wheel, on your bottom of your feet through a pedal or through the floor when your foot is flat?

    So you though it was a wheel bearing , replaced with a new one. Found a bolt missing. ( was there ever any repairs in past on this side)? Because of the missing bolt.

    IMO experience with my past solid axle trucks, when an axle u-joint was going bad or already death bad.
    Slow speeds with slight to major turns the axel joint side/area would make pops, scraps, growls. How load or aggressive usually depended on how bad, things were. Usually there are some visual signs if we look close enough. Turn the wheel any direction. Look around the joint ends/cups/seats. Look for major rust, Maybe a water rust stain,or red rusted grease that has come out of the seals. But the outer body itself of the joint it may have some light to moderate rust and that would not be any issue. This can be due to the material of the joint and area you live. the inside is whatcounts.
    Sometime you can jack the wheel and slowly spin it and feelthe joint go tighter (bind) then relaxed. If any has poor hearing you can hear this sound a little better with a rubber hose and use it as a stethoscope. I have always replaced mine with ones I can grease. Then I knew what grease was in them and how much. I would usually try and remove as much of the grease they came with and put in my own prior to install and then top off after install. Then check after some miles.

    Anyway sorry about all the questions. But maybe we and whoever see’s this thread can take something from it for down the road.

    Oh and the other thing for some of you that want to make things last longer without a lot of rust on the underside. This is safe for all things under there except the exhaust. Fluid film. Its good stuff have been using if for a longtime. I also will use this when I have to press in the rubber
    Sleeves in the shock eyelets. It’s good for door weather strips too.

    Last edited by DIESELWRKS; 12-20-2018 at 02:46 AM. Reason: spelling
    2017 WON TON CC LB 68AUTO
    Secret stuff that make it vroom and whistle better Thuren 2.25 w/2.0 Fox Resi

    Justin
    Southern Oregon ( the Republican part)
    UNITEDSTATES MARINE CORPS 1993-2007
    No better friend, No better enemy.

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