Sorry about the horrible spelling, I'm on my phone and autocorrect made that post difficult to read.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Sorry about the horrible spelling, I'm on my phone and autocorrect made that post difficult to read.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Good call Controlled. We were on the same page.
Need the voltage with the key on. But 12.5 is good. You can have good voltage without a load. Once you throw the load on poof. Sorry us ungineers need details. LOL
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
Just saw this video.
From my perspective it sounded like a combo of turbo surge and lack of pilot injection.
Could have very well been a low voltage write to the ecm at some point.
Since this truck is second hand purchased with our tuning, no way I can examine any prior records. We would have to start over new with this truck if anything further is done tuning wise.
If any further issues pop up, email me at ray@doublerdiesel.com and we can look into the situation deeper and discuss options.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
I guess you finished shoveling and got your lights back huh?
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
I'm sorry, that was a typo in my post.
Voltage was 12.5 with the key on and engine off, right after the tunes were re-uploaded so the key had been on for several minutes and still maintaining 12.5.
I am really starting to lean heavily towards a grid heater delete on this truck. For one I am scared of the bolt breaking off and taking out one of my pistons and possibly cylinder head. For two it seems these MM3 devices do not deal real well with the voltage drop that the grid heater causes.
Thanks for the response Ray. Didn't want to bother you with this until I was ready to purchase new tunes. I've taken up enough of your time already with all my previous Email questions.
Don't really want to drop the coin right now. Just had to put 4 new tires on the truck, plus I just hit a deer on the way to get the tires and will need to replace the front bumper.... UGH! Also trying to by Xmas presents at the moment so extra cash is hard to come by. You know how it goes.
Thanks again,
Noooooo!
So I never changed it off of the 30hp tune since the last time I posted in this thread.
Voltage was 12.5 or a little over before I cranked the engine with the grid heater off.
Fired the truck up and idled it up using the cruise and turned the exhaust brake on to let it idle up while I was getting ready to leave work. So I had already drove the truck over 30 miles to work earlier in the day. So its not like the truck had been sitting for an extended time to drain the batteries.
At first it sounded fine, but after running for a few minutes it started making the exact same noise from the video again.
Immediately goes away as soon as I either turn off exhaust brake or turn off high idle.
No clue what to do now.
Apparently reloading the tunes isn't the fix.
Changing Hp level isn't the fix.
I don't really think this is something that will mechanically hurt the engine. Do you?
In any case it is embarrassing.
Seriously, the batteries are way too low in voltage output.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
How can 12.5 volts be too low? I would think 12.5 volts with the ignition on and running the PCM, MM3 and whatever lights is pretty dang good. I would wager to say that if I installed a brand new set of batteries they would also read 12.5 volts.
Also I did not load or change any tunes in quite a while. Also the problem does not occur until after the truck has been running for several minutes at high idle with the exhaust brake on. If its a battery voltage problem you would think it would act up worse right after I fired it up, not after the alternator has been supplying 14.5 volts for 5 minutes. Voltage at the time of the problem is well over 14 volts.
How does having a key on battery voltage that is maybe... maybe 1 tenth of a volt low on start up cause something like this? I don't think its low I think its right on point but anyway....
I'm not saying I know everything, because I certainly don't. But I have been a professional auto/ diesel mechanic for about 20 years now. I have never seen anything like this. Admittedly I have virtually zero experience with the 6.7 Cummins. But this being caused by my batteries that seem to be perfectly healthy to me makes no sense as far as I understand it.
I'm not about to go out an spend hundreds of dollars to replace my perfectly good batteries unless I am convinced that there is actually something wrong with them.
I mean they read 12.5 volts with the key on. They are perfectly capable of cycling my grid heater and staring this engine immediately with 20* ambient temps... They crank the engine over plenty fast even after taking the load of the grid heater... What more can I ask of them?
If key on voltage was something like 11.9 and I was getting phantom codes that make no sense or a multitude of random problems I might buy the weak battery theory.
But I have one single problem, that is easily repeatable and no other problems. I could be wrong, Lord knows its happened before. But given all of the facts that I just laid out I just cant see how my batteries have anything to do with this whatsoever.
If you know something that isn't common knowledge please school me, I'm all ears.
Please don't say try two new batteries and see what happens unless you are willing to buy then from me for retail plus shipping to your location after I install them and have the exact same problem.
Well my voltage reads 14.5 combined under load. I'm not a professional mechanic, however my batteries were reading 12.5 and I had pleathora of issues with the FIPM. I'm not saying throw money at it for the sake of doing it, however it was an issue with me, and I was sharing what worked (among other things) for me. You can take it or leave it.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Bookmarks