Turbo Problems

[R&R]

Hello, every one I'm new here but I need some help. I have a13 Ram 3500 Dually with a 6.7 Cummins and G56 trans. The truck is completely stock. The truck has a check engine light on for a bad NOX sensor so I don't know how long it could have been on before I noticed the loss of power. I noticed that the truck lost power and the exhaust brake quit working and the most boost it will build is about 8-10 psi. The check engine light is a P003A turbo boost control extending learned limit and P2493 EGR cooler bypass position sensor. Everything I have read says that you may be able to clean the turbo but that may only fix it for a short while.

The other alternative is a new turbo. I would like to go back with the factory turbo at this time and have found several but that is where the confusion comes in. On Diesel Power Products they list one for a 07.5-12 and one for a 07.5-18 with a huge price difference. My question is what is the difference between the two? Can the cheaper of the two be made to work? Is it just a plug that is different or different calibration? Is there any way to make this work or is the only way up buy the one that is almost double the cost? Also is there anywhere better to get a turbo? This one seems a little difficult to find.

Thanks for taking the time to read this and hopefully share some insight into this problem.

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[walla2k5]

Sorry to hear about your troubles, I'm not looking forward to the day I'm in your shoes. I'd PM Clayton @Dude's Diesel Performance, he's a vendor here and can help you make the right decision. keep us posted on your findings.

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[watersupply189]

Hello, every one I'm new here but I need some help. I have a13 Ram 3500 Dually with a 6.7 Cummins and G56 trans. The truck is completely stock. The truck has a check engine light on for a bad NOX sensor so I don't know how long it could have been on before I noticed the loss of power. I noticed that the truck lost power and the exhaust brake quit working and the most boost it will build is about 8-10 psi. The check engine light is a P003A turbo boost control extending learned limit and P2493 EGR cooler bypass position sensor. Everything I have read says that you may be able to clean the turbo but that may only fix it for a short while.

The other alternative is a new turbo. I would like to go back with the factory turbo at this time and have found several but that is where the confusion comes in. On Diesel Power Products they list one for a 07.5-12 and one for a 07.5-18 with a huge price difference. My question is what is the difference between the two? Can the cheaper of the two be made to work? Is it just a plug that is different or different calibration? Is there any way to make this work or is the only way up buy the one that is almost double the cost? Also is there anywhere better to get a turbo? This one seems a little difficult to find.

Thanks for taking the time to read this and hopefully share some insight into this problem.

Sorry your having issues. Welcome to the forum. I agree contact DDP. See what he can do for you. He’s great guy and will bend over backwards to help you friend.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, MM3 tuned by Double R Diesel, Rough Country Leveling, 35x12.50 Nitto G2, HID headlights and fogs plus many many other add ons.....

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[R&R]

Thanks for the replies guys. I sent him a message and waiting to hear back.

Do you think it is okay to run it like it is?

It runs fine just not much power, especially in higher gears.

Cruising at 70mph it will sometimes run about 1 or 2 psi and getting up to speed it will peak at about 8psi.

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[DDP]

Thanks everyone for the recommendations! Very much appreciated!

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[DDP]

Hello, every one I'm new here but I need some help. I have a13 Ram 3500 Dually with a 6.7 Cummins and G56 trans. The truck is completely stock. The truck has a check engine light on for a bad NOX sensor so I don't know how long it could have been on before I noticed the loss of power. I noticed that the truck lost power and the exhaust brake quit working and the most boost it will build is about 8-10 psi. The check engine light is a P003A turbo boost control extending learned limit and P2493 EGR cooler bypass position sensor. Everything I have read says that you may be able to clean the turbo but that may only fix it for a short while.

The other alternative is a new turbo. I would like to go back with the factory turbo at this time and have found several but that is where the confusion comes in. On Diesel Power Products they list one for a 07.5-12 and one for a 07.5-18 with a huge price difference. My question is what is the difference between the two? Can the cheaper of the two be made to work? Is it just a plug that is different or different calibration? Is there any way to make this work or is the only way up buy the one that is almost double the cost? Also is there anywhere better to get a turbo? This one seems a little difficult to find.

Thanks for taking the time to read this and hopefully share some insight into this problem.

Dont forget to delete some messages as well so i can respond back to ya bud.

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[hoe]

I'd fix the cel first, either replace sensor or delete it.

If it's derating because of the emissions fault it will display that behaviour and won't boost....

Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk

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[F350Cummins]

A friend just went through this with his 15 and G56 truck. Dealer looked into the computer and saw he was never really working the truck, therefore the turbo was not going through its full movement. His truck was 100% stock and it was repaired under warranty.

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[Polaraco]

Hello, every one I'm new here but I need some help. I have a13 Ram 3500 Dually with a 6.7 Cummins and G56 trans. The truck is completely stock. The truck has a check engine light on for a bad NOX sensor so I don't know how long it could have been on before I noticed the loss of power. I noticed that the truck lost power and the exhaust brake quit working and the most boost it will build is about 8-10 psi. The check engine light is a P003A turbo boost control extending learned limit and P2493 EGR cooler bypass position sensor. Everything I have read says that you may be able to clean the turbo but that may only fix it for a short while.

The other alternative is a new turbo. I would like to go back with the factory turbo at this time and have found several but that is where the confusion comes in. On Diesel Power Products they list one for a 07.5-12 and one for a 07.5-18 with a huge price difference. My question is what is the difference between the two? Can the cheaper of the two be made to work? Is it just a plug that is different or different calibration? Is there any way to make this work or is the only way up buy the one that is almost double the cost? Also is there anywhere better to get a turbo? This one seems a little difficult to find.

Thanks for taking the time to read this and hopefully share some insight into this problem.

Yes fix the sensor. You may be able to just clean it. Try that first.

You can get a couple of cans of sea foam and dribble them into the intake so it will pas through and open up those vanes. try to dribble enough so that the engine barely starts to run a bit rough. Not too fast, you don't want any hydraulics.

If I remember right, there is still a DPF on that. if that gets clogged, you'll get the same effect. No boost and power. If you can get the sea foam through, throw 2 more in the tank and take it for a ride. I mean a long ride and drive it like you stole it. You might get it opened up without mechanical intervention. I did that on my neighbors ford and it worked.

I suggest you get the Archoil decarboning agent. That works better than the seabreeze. Start using their fuel additive too. When you get this opened up again, you'll never see it again with that stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Archoil-AR6400-D-Professional-Cleaner-Gallons/dp/B072BWR7J3/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1531837102&sr=8-16&keywords=archoil

https://www.amazon.com/Archoil-AR6200-16-9-ounces-Treatment/dp/B005WWP99S/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=153747878 1&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=archoil&psc=1

The fuel additive looks expensive, but you only use a little bit per tank. The guys on the forum who use it experience no problems with their trucks. I've been using it for 5 years now and it just keeps getting better and better.

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