Yeah I drove around for a little over a month before it finally went into limp mode and I just switched to a mechanical turbo
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Yeah I drove around for a little over a month before it finally went into limp mode and I just switched to a mechanical turbo
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Got the code again yesterday. Had to make a 4hour round trip. First was the U1449, then came U010C again. I guess I'll order an actuator tomorrow.
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The truck is stiff running fine, with the boost.
Pulled our boat for the season today and truck doesn't run like there is an issue.
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I have been having the same problem.
I need help with it at well.
Replaced the actuator and it is still throwing the code lost communication with the turbo charger after I a few miles of driving.
Also the exhaust brake isn’t working.
Did you install your self?
Did you get it calibrated?
All OEM actuators need calibration which is why every one here recommends @Geno's Garage.
I unplugged my actuator back In October it’s runs decent but not ideal.
It’ll do until I order one from Geno's.
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Just a wild guess.
From what I am seeing in this thread, I am betting that over several heat cool cycles the lead free solder is cracking ( it's one if many problems with lead free ) on the PCB.
Then it heats up and the crack makes contact but slowly gets worse till eventually it's kaput.
Xbox 360 rod was one of the most known cases, but many things suffer from this, generally called micro cracks, I had to fix a abs module on my 98 Volvo due to this.
Now this is just conjecture, until someone would pull the PCB and look it over/ attempt repairs.
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