As a figure of thumb, I usually would estimate double the torque of the hp.
On G56, I was always under the impression that you don't run more than 30hp without having the risk of clutch slip.
As a figure of thumb, I usually would estimate double the torque of the hp.
On G56, I was always under the impression that you don't run more than 30hp without having the risk of clutch slip.
I’ve slipped it 3 times.
Once when I resumed cruise control.
I highly recommend getting rid of that stock clutch so you can enjoy your G56 without constantly wondering if it's going to slip or how long it will last especially if you tow. Best thing I ever did was throw a South Bend dual disk in it. Once you get the pedal adjusted on the new hydraulics aka pedal height it's a night and day difference. Only gear that is a tad stubborn which has always been is reverse. But if you throw it in second first then slide over to reverse it goes in smooth as can be. Here is my old stock one which I only personally put 7k on since I have owned it and the stock clutch was pretty much gone. The truck has 107k on it total and different hydraulics when I bought it so who knows how old the clutch actually was. I definitely think the previous owner replaced the stock clutch before. But I will say it's only had the doctors fix for 7k since I bought it stock and now the stock clutch is gone. They won't last long.
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youve not had it on a dyno since the clutch change?
No honestly I haven't. I just put 400 miles on it to break it in and now I run the 90 hp daily. I honestly have never put it past 90. It has plenty of power on 90 for me but I have been curious as to what it puts down on the dyno. I would've never been able to dyno it before with the stock clutch. I burned it up bad with just the 60 hp tune going up a mountain pass. Someday I will dyno it after I do ARP head studs for piece of mind. Remember that also if you start really cranking it up I think it's around 150 hp to 200 hp head studs are recommended and I don't recommend getting wild on any setting till she is warmed up completely also.
The stock truck is derated only bc the clutch im guessing. So with a tune, the truck power is close or equal to the automatic or no? If true, this is why theres the comments about a significant increase in power when comparing a G56 to an auto. Is this accurate?
OK, I too, bought a brand new RAM with the G56, heard all the stories about 50K clutch life, I babied mine, didnt even power down after a shift till a few seconds after releasing clutch to get full adhesion and it first slipped at 50K like everyone said it would. I even had the MADS smarty tune, put in the 40HP economy tune (the weakest they had, my tuner has 3 options) and after driving it for 10 miles, took it back out, knew my clutch would fail fast with this.
I have since, removed the stock clutch and installed a Southbend unit, just the stock replacement OK-HD or something like that, good for 400HP and 900 ft lbs, but still have not installed my MADS smarty tune back in yet.
2010 Dodge 2500 SLT CCLB 4WD G56 Cummins 6.7 turbo diesel, 3.42 LSD. Add ons: Banks Monster Ram, Grid heater delete, Spyntec Free Spin Kit with Warn hubs (62672) Laramie Alloys (includes spare), "Powerwagon" Flares, Powerwagon bed decal (4X4 off road) OE Ram mudflaps, OE Slush Mats, OE Clearance Lamps, Geno's shift knob in black, 5" DPF back with muffler delete, spray in bedliner, OE brake controller, Durafit Seat Covers, Pro Tech Toolbox, Speed Turtle, Upfitter switches, Ham Radios, 8 Antennas, headache rack, emergency light bar,....
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