Another egr delete question (banks and fleece)

[HKBIGDADDYDIESELDAN]

German torque specs, not American....Gootenteit.

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[BrentM]

Here is my complete kit.



Maybe this will help

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[BrentM]

The spacer holds the bracket. You could probably make one with hardware store parts, coupler and threaded rod.

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[trainingwheels]

Because those kits are the half *** way of deleting. You’re still leaving the throttle valve, adding a block off plate to a poor flowing intake manifold where I’m using the banks which flows more, deletes the throttle valve, doesn’t have a bootleg plate on top of it and looks cleaner. I’m running a seperate coolant hose because the rear cylinder heats up, hence the coolant bypass. I’m not new to cummins, just 6.7 emissions garbage.

All I was getting at is, I purchased a kit off of eBay for $80 including the throttle valve delete. Sure I still have that intake manifold. But with my current DRD tuning, it works great. It doesn’t make too much sense to increase the flow there when you have a heck of a ton of restriction all before that. If your going to let her breath in the manifold, let her breath every where else. Anyways, that’s where I sit. So if you are adding a new manifold, you are just throwing away that block off plate.


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[trainingwheels]

6 one way, half a dozen the other. They all inflate numbers. The point of this is to figure out if I needed the bracket and “spacer” but everyone on this forum seems to be focused on the cheap way or brand x.

I have mentioned that you do need the bracket and spacer if you want your tranny dip stick to be secure.


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[HKBIGDADDYDIESELDAN]

The spacer holds the bracket. You could probably make one with hardware store parts, coupler and threaded rod.

https://i.imgur.com/ellJgk1l.jpg

Nice job looks good clean install very nicely done

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[lukdiver]

Went the cheapie $50 eBay egr delete kit. Worked for me but had to frog mounting bolt for the exhaust tube/sensor coming up from exhaust manifold. Good suggestion on checking that plug in back exhaust blank-off plate. I'll check it's tight before I hit road tomorrow. In hindsight I would have bought new metal gaskets for blank-off plates but seem to be sealing. Inlet airhorn was soot-city and cleaned it. Took a day to rewire AMP powersteps as it was plug/play into OBD port and Ray recommended rewiring onto panel as opposed to doing a 'Y' on OBD port. Hangup was the two wires from controller were specific to each side of truck, i.e.: one side is driver side and other wire is passenger side. Requires IN4001 blocking diodes on each leg to prevent feedback.

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[lukdiver]

Kept getting codes from deleted CCV despite 1/2" vent line (too many 90degree elbows) so went to 5/8' one piece hose and seems to work. Dumped line down below frame as slobber-tube was staining frame?

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