Man that thing looks pretty dang stout very nice
Man that thing looks pretty dang stout very nice
2012 Cummins Ram 6.7L MM3 tuner full 5" Flo Pro TBE Exhaust LWBCC 4x4 Mag Hytec Double Deep Transmission Pan , Mag Hytec Rear Diff Cover
Airlift part # 57595 7500lbs airbags ,Nitto Ridge Grapplers 35/12.50/20 on XD 829 Big Hoss ll Satin Black Machined Dark Tint 20 x 9 with + 18 offset rims,MM3 Tuner With full Custom Tunes by Ray at DRD , Autometer A13117 Pillar Pod , Edge 98004 mount adapter , Mag Hytec front diff cover, SuperNova V4 LED Headlight Bulbs
Likewise, I have a gh-624 and I don’t know if it’s possible for this thing to fail. I bought it with too much drop but this one should be named bulletproof. weights close to 75 lbs! I will NEVER worry about my hitch failing!
I did the same thing for my equalizer. It cost me about 3 bucks in steel and I made it. Only I need to move the stinger out 2" to prevent from losing tail lights on a tight knife turn
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
Has any one thought about putting stabilizing bars on there drop hitches back to the frame, my drop hitch is about 12” to make my weight distribution hitch work.
2014 2500 on Fuel rims, custom aluminum grill emblem, mm3 DRD tuned, 4” jamo tbe exhaust, led fog lights, steering box brace, took Vinyl off doors.
I know where your going. The weight stabilizers work with leverage. The geometry makes the hitch mount for max leverage. Running stabilizers to the chassis won't do anything.
The only problem I see with that 14" is twisting potential of the frame. That's an awful lot of leverage being transmitted to the frame. I've been saying for years to should not significantly lift the truck and tow. Us ungineers know something sometimes.
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
[QUOTE=Polaraco;145712]I know where your going. The weight stabilizers work with leverage. The geometry makes the hitch mount for max leverage. Running stabilizers to the chassis won't do anything.
The only problem I see with that 14" is twisting potential of the frame. That's an awful lot of leverage being transmitted to the frame. I've been saying for years to should not significantly lift the truck and tow. Us ungineers know something sometimes.[/QUOTE
my truck is not lifted I need the drop to make my weight distribution hitch work it’s a older husky and from the top of the ball to the bottom hole on the part that gos on the drop is like 6”s hope that makes sense so that’s why I need such a drop. What I meant was run bars that can be tightened from the drop to the frame that would get rid of the side to side motion on the drop.
2014 2500 on Fuel rims, custom aluminum grill emblem, mm3 DRD tuned, 4” jamo tbe exhaust, led fog lights, steering box brace, took Vinyl off doors.
GenY offers stabilizers with adjustable heim joints for their hitches...is that what you’re talking about?
2012 Ram 2500, 4x4, 3.73, 5” lift, 35" tires, Pure Performance TB, 5100s, 4" FloPro TBE, EGR valve/cooler/throttle delete, S&B CAI, GDP heater delete, GDP S2 air horn, Bestop Powerboards, RaceME Ultra Warp Tuning by DRD
yes, I thought about buying there setup and modifying the part that goes on the hitch, I welded the 2 1/2 hitch adaptor to the drop hitch and that took some of the slope out.
2014 2500 on Fuel rims, custom aluminum grill emblem, mm3 DRD tuned, 4” jamo tbe exhaust, led fog lights, steering box brace, took Vinyl off doors.
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