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Thread: Engine problems

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    KiloCummins04's Avatar

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    Engine problems

    Let me give a little background, and then hoping you guys can point me in the right direction. I have a 2004 Ram 3500 crew cab slt, 5.9L vin C. I have a smarty touch purchased from dudes diesel performance, it is currently unhooked and the truck was reprogrammed to stock before removal by the smarty.
    The problem: truck has a funny idle and shuts off at idle, particularly when I first start it up in the morning. I can throw it in high idle and it’ll somewhat smooth out after a few minutes. As soon as I go to put it in gear it tries to die.
    What I have found: the TPS has a voltage of 0.44v at idle and with the key on engine off. The voltage rolls up to 1.0 volts as you depress the pedal. The fan clutch is brand new, the original code I had was PO483 and I was told it was my fan clutch. However, at 760 rpm(idle) the fan is turning 220 rpm according to my scanner (snap-on souls ultra). The engine coolant temp sensor will read ~185-190 and when you unplug it it goes +/- 4 degrees or so of the reading with the ect unplugged. All power and ground circuits for the ecm have been verified correct.
    The mechanic helping me is a retired mechanic, he was also an electronics engineer for Disney. He believes the problem could be in my ecm and that a reflash may help, and if not that, a whole new ecm. Here are my questions, with the smarty, should it not have updated the ecm when it was programmed? And also will I be able to use the smarty after the fact if a reflash or ecm is needed? Or will the smarty have to be reprogrammed?
    Thanks for the input guys!


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    Old... But Still Here! AnOldBiker's Avatar

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    Re: Engine problems

    Here's the last I heard:
    When you use a Smarty, it vin locks the vehicle and you make the adjustments you want.
    When you bring the Smarty back to stock to remove the vin lock, it puts the ecm back to where it found it.
    When you update the Smarty from their webpage, all recent Dodge updates issued for the vehicle is in the update and put into the ecm when you install the program.

    So if you updated the Smarty when you got it, you should have the recent Didge update.
    If it's been a while since you updated the Smarty,(If there is an update), you should and try again.
    Or take it to the dealer to see if any updates are needed, then check vehicle and or install the Smarty again.
    If this doesn't work ....



    Jim


    2006 ~ 2500HD, Big Horn Edition, 5.9, 4x4, Q/Cab, 48RE, L/B, 3.73, S&B CAI & Snout, ProFlo 5" S/S exhaust, Smarty Touch, Oil ByPass Kit, 60 gal main tank, 110 gallon in-bed tank, XX-Fuel Filter System, Coolant Bypass Kit, Mag-Hytec front & rear end covers and trans pan, 285 x 70 x 17

    "Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children’s children what it was once like in the United States, where men 'were' free." ~ Ronald Regan

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    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    Re: Engine problems

    Quote Originally Posted by KiloCummins04 View Post
    Let me give a little background, and then hoping you guys can point me in the right direction. I have a 2004 Ram 3500 crew cab slt, 5.9L vin C. I have a smarty touch purchased from dudes diesel performance, it is currently unhooked and the truck was reprogrammed to stock before removal by the smarty.
    The problem: truck has a funny idle and shuts off at idle, particularly when I first start it up in the morning. I can throw it in high idle and it’ll somewhat smooth out after a few minutes. As soon as I go to put it in gear it tries to die.
    What I have found: the TPS has a voltage of 0.44v at idle and with the key on engine off. The voltage rolls up to 1.0 volts as you depress the pedal. The fan clutch is brand new, the original code I had was PO483 and I was told it was my fan clutch. However, at 760 rpm(idle) the fan is turning 220 rpm according to my scanner (snap-on souls ultra). The engine coolant temp sensor will read ~185-190 and when you unplug it it goes +/- 4 degrees or so of the reading with the ect unplugged. All power and ground circuits for the ecm have been verified correct.
    The mechanic helping me is a retired mechanic, he was also an electronics engineer for Disney. He believes the problem could be in my ecm and that a reflash may help, and if not that, a whole new ecm. Here are my questions, with the smarty, should it not have updated the ecm when it was programmed? And also will I be able to use the smarty after the fact if a reflash or ecm is needed? Or will the smarty have to be reprogrammed?
    Thanks for the input guys!
    Make sure your batteries are charged and in good shape. Re tune the truck back to stock. If you have a charger, put that on too. Smarties are very voltage sensitive.
    When you put the plug in the ODP port, wiggle it a bit while you slightly push in. These ODP ports are junk.


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

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  6. Top Of Page | #4
    KiloCummins04's Avatar

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    Re: Engine problems

    Truck actually seems to be doing better. I haven’t tried updating the smarty yet, but I checked all my cables and stuff. Batteries are brand new odyssey batteries, both of them. And they check good. But I must’ve wiggles the wire or something I have no clue, the truck all but runs right. I can start it without having to kick in the high idle and it’s not dying but it will cough a bit here and there.


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  8. Top Of Page | #5
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    Re: Engine problems

    Quote Originally Posted by KiloCummins04 View Post
    Truck actually seems to be doing better. I haven’t tried updating the smarty yet, but I checked all my cables and stuff. Batteries are brand new odyssey batteries, both of them. And they check good. But I must’ve wiggles the wire or something I have no clue, the truck all but runs right. I can start it without having to kick in the high idle and it’s not dying but it will cough a bit here and there.
    From experience, and a long time battle with me, that doesn't mean anything. Grid heaters and short runs take a lot out of the batteries. I'm not familiar with you or your area. It takes 20 minutes of running to restore a these batteries after a cold start. Dual batteries take twice as long. They can be new and low in charge. Mine are new, last August and I have that problem all winter. Just saying, make sure they are 100%. I do a lot of short runs in the winter. I have a 2 amp float charger on my batteries as well as the block heater. I often will just plug it in to get the batteries back up to snuff. Food for thought, that's a 3/4 HP starter motor. The draw is around 180 amps when starting. More on real cold days. Fortunately, I don't have to grind the starter. It starts right up. Even so, that's a lot of current to be sucking from two batteries. Mine are advertised as 1000 CCA. but who knows.

    But giving you live in Florida, I'll have to take the grid heater out of the equation. Short runs will dry them out quick.

    Are you sure you don't have something else wrong?


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

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  10. Top Of Page | #6
    david3gen's Avatar

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    Re: Engine problems

    @Polaraco knows what he is talking about. I had this issues earlier this winter.it all went down to batteries and cables


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    2006 dodge ram 2500 laramie crew cab 5.9 cummins. 10x20 et-24 fuel offroad with 275.60r20 tires. bully dog gt tuner. 48re ATS built tranny triple disc converter ATS oilpan and transgo quick shifter. 4" turbo back exhaust. brembo discs and pads

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  12. Top Of Page | #7
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    Re: Engine problems

    Quote Originally Posted by david3gen View Post
    @Polaraco knows what he is talking about. I had this issues earlier this winter.it all went down to batteries and cables


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thank you sir


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

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  14. Top Of Page | #8
    HKBIGDADDYDIESELDAN's Avatar

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    Re: Engine problems

    Quote Originally Posted by david3gen View Post
    @Polaraco knows what he is talking about. I had this issues earlier this winter.it all went down to batteries and cables


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    100% Agreed Steve knows his Cummins

    2012 Cummins Ram 6.7L MM3 tuner full 5" Flo Pro TBE Exhaust LWBCC 4x4 Mag Hytec Double Deep Transmission Pan , Mag Hytec Rear Diff Cover
    Airlift part # 57595 7500lbs airbags ,Nitto Ridge Grapplers 35/12.50/20 on XD 829 Big Hoss ll Satin Black Machined Dark Tint 20 x 9 with + 18 offset rims,MM3 Tuner With full Custom Tunes by Ray at DRD , Autometer A13117 Pillar Pod , Edge 98004 mount adapter , Mag Hytec front diff cover, SuperNova V4 LED Headlight Bulbs

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