cooling issues

[Polaraco]

2011 ram 2500, 6.7 cummins, fully deleted, mild raceme jr. tune, Ok heres my problem: A while back my coolant temps went all the way to 245 and the temp light came on then after a second it went away. It didn't do it again for a while so I though nothing of it. Well it did it again a couple weeks later and not too long after that it did it and stayed around 220 or 230 for a good couple minutes until I guess the thermostat opened and it went down to like 190. Also I noticed when you turn the truck off you can hear the coolant bubbling into the overflow tank on the passenger side. Given these symptoms I decided to replace the thermostat and see what happens so I did that with a 180 thermostat and once I got the system burped it did great for a few days but could still hear the bubbling on the passenger side when you turn the truck off but the coolant was staying at 180 so I was happy. Well a couple days ago I was sitting in a parking lot with the truck idling for probably 10-15 minutes then shut it off. well when I went to leave a few hours later after about 15-20 minutes of driving down the interstate it overheated and was not cooling down so I parked it at the nearest gas station and came back for it a few hours later after it cooled and went to check the coolant level and I added almost a gallon of distilled water to it so it appears that when I was sitting in the parking lot it must have boiled off most of the coolant causing it to get hot. Some people are saying it might be a fan clutch causing it not to cool others suggested it might be the water pump not circulating the coolant enough. just looking for suggestions before I spend a bunch of money chasing this problem.

You need to check for codes with a scan tool. Some codes don't show up on the dash light, like a fan code. Further, the TPS controls the fan. It could be that too.

Check and make sure your rad and condenser fins are clear. It's a very common problem.

Make sure your belt tensioner is in working order.

I assume you've checked the fluid level. Keep an eye on it to see if it goes down or if there is excessive pressure in the rad

Bad Rad cap will cause strange issues too.

180 state will do nothing for you on these

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[jas]

so I replaced my water pump and all was well. It kept the engine cool and even stopped the bubbling noise from the passenger side after you shut the engine off. Well after a couple weeks the noise was back but it still kept the truck cool and I could let it idle with no issues. Well about a week ago I let it idle in the driveway for about 10 min and sure enough when I went to leave made it about a mile and it already was running about 210-220 and it sure enough over heated. So I stopped, had someone bring me some water, filled er up and kept going with no problems. Well the timing couldn't have been worse because it was right before a 600 mile trip to the mountains pulling a horse trailer. but the truck for the most part did fine on the way up, would jump up to 190 sometimes once we got in the hills but overall not to bad. However I amp finding myself needing to periodically fill the radiator to keep it cool and one decided when I get home something needs to be done. I'm to the point where I may want to go ahead and replace the fan clutch and the head gasket, then that would just about cover everything wouldn't it? thermostat, rad cap, water pump, then fan and gasket. Is there anything else that could be causing these issues? Something with the ac system??? I'm having to explore all options. Sorry for the lost post but this has been an accumulation of a recurring problem

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[Polaraco]

Coolant is only a few days old since I changed it when I did then themorstat. I took it to a shop so they could plug in a scanner to test the clutch and temp sending unit. They said they’re leaning towards a fan clutch but I probably just got another airpocket in it which is the reason for overheating. Since I topped it off that last time I haven’t had any problems yet so might try burping it a little more and roll with it. Also I didn’t notice my radiator has some dirt in it so I blew it out with compressed air on the upper portion I could reach. The funny thing is I replaced that radiator about 2 years ago and I just dumped coolant in it and took off and didn’t have any problems with air pockets

If it's a bad fan, it would heat up while you're standing still. Not when you're moving

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[Polaraco]

If it is a head gasket highly doubt truck will run and if it does it would run like **** and overheat very quickly good luck

Head gaskets can act strange in many ways. Sometimes they act like a check valve. You won't lose water, but the compression escapes into the cooling system. Or the exhaust pressure is higher than the cooling system, forcing the exhaust one way. That's just 2 examples. I didn't get into that with him yet, but it sounds like it's resolved.

I've been hiding

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[jas]

Ive considered buying a vacuum coolant filler tool to eliminate the possibility of it getting any air pockets. Since it put the cooling system under vacuum it would be able to detect leaks. would it be able to help me determine if it is a head gasket to see of the gasket is leaking?

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[jas]

Update: so for kicks and giggles I decided to top it off with water this morning and proceeded to go about my day. After running it for a few minutes to back up a trailer I pulled into my shop to air up a tire and noticed it was dripping pretty heavily behind the right tire. Most of which was probably from the overflow tank and some may have been from the air conditioning since I had it on full blast. After that I decided to test my luck by letting it idle in the driveway for a few minutes and when I got out it wasn’t just dripping, it was a steady stream of coolant coming down out the fender line from the tank and then as I proceeded to drive down the road about a mile it ran pretty hot due to loss of coolant. I’m beginning to wonder if my head gasket is allowing pressure from the pistons to push coolant out of the system. I also noticed when I was bleeding the system that it would push fluid out of the filler neck until the thermostat finally opened letting it fill in the air pickets.

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