Heater Grid delete tips?

[CanDiesel]

I had a leak on #3 at the fuel rail. Tightend it an 8th of a turn or so and its all good now. Fingers crossed

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[SNAKEYES]

Tighten fuel line at cylinder head.Torque nut to (22 ft. lbs).
Tighten fuel lines at fuel rail.Torque nut to (27 ft. lbs).

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[CanDiesel]

Tighten fuel line at cylinder head.Torque nut to (22 ft. lbs).
Tighten fuel lines at fuel rail.Torque nut to (27 ft. lbs).

Yeah I for sure had it tightened to 27 ft pounds that was one of the few lines I could get my torque wrench on. So its torqued a big higher now LOL

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[CanDiesel]

I read that the potential consequences of overtorquing these fittings is primarily deformation of the mating surfaces, potential cracking and line deformation ie pinching it shut.

I have no leaks so I know there are no cracks (leaking ones anyway), I have no way to verify the mating surfaces at this point without pulling everything apart and the engine is running great so I know I've got good flow to all six cylinders.

Ill add that the truck seems to be running alot better. It could all be in my head but throttle response feels better, the engine sounds better and I've observed a signifigant reduction in exhaust gas temperatures. The GDP heater is working perfectly.

After doing the egr crossover and cooler delete, changing diff and tcase fluids, installing new intake, changing CCV filter and so on I think I'm done with mods for a bit. I did everything I thought would enhance the reliability of my engine and I'm very pleased with the results. I have some rust on the undercarriage I want to take care of but my wife ha had about enough of me being in the garage for now so it will have to wait for another time.

Thanks for your help everyone

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[SNAKEYES]

Awesome glad it all worked out great!

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[walla2k5]

You don't need crows feet, and I doubt you'll be able to crack the lines loose with them. I've done several without them. You just need a short and long combo wrench. (Why do I want to say it's a 3/4 wrench. I forget. . . Old Age)
First time cracking those nuts is a bear. A real vane popper

Huh, a crows foot was just the ticket for me...

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[walla2k5]

I read that the potential consequences of overtorquing these fittings is primarily deformation of the mating surfaces, potential cracking and line deformation ie pinching it shut.

I have no leaks so I know there are no cracks (leaking ones anyway), I have no way to verify the mating surfaces at this point without pulling everything apart and the engine is running great so I know I've got good flow to all six cylinders.

Ill add that the truck seems to be running alot better. It could all be in my head but throttle response feels better, the engine sounds better and I've observed a signifigant reduction in exhaust gas temperatures. The GDP heater is working perfectly.

After doing the egr crossover and cooler delete, changing diff and tcase fluids, installing new intake, changing CCV filter and so on I think I'm done with mods for a bit. I did everything I thought would enhance the reliability of my engine and I'm very pleased with the results. I have some rust on the undercarriage I want to take care of but my wife ha had about enough of me being in the garage for now so it will have to wait for another time.

Thanks for your help everyone

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Glad you got it going.

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[CanDiesel]

Huh, a crows foot was just the ticket for me...

I can get the crows foot on the fitting but because the injecotor is at 45 degrees (roughly) pointing toward the rear of the vehicle and due to everything else in there it is damn near impossible to get my torque wrench on the crows foot no matter how many extensions or knuckles I use LOL. I tried and tried an tried it was a royal pain. In the end I just used my 19mm wrench and reefed on it. I could have tightened it down harder so it's not like I put my back in to it or anything. Its a guesstimate that isn't leaking and doesn't appear to have caused any harm at this point.

I sure wish I could have torqued it properly though. I drove above. 50km today and did some grades and managed to build 23 k rail pressure. Still no leaks *fingers crossed*

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[theaaronbush]

You should be good. I deleted my grid heater almost 2 years ago and I didn’t torque any of them down. I just got them as tight as I could with an open ended wrench. Haven’t had a leak yet.


2012 Ram 2500, 4x4, 3.73, 5” lift, 35" tires, Pure Performance TB, 5100s, 4" FloPro TBE, EGR valve/cooler/throttle delete, S&B CAI, GDP heater delete, GDP S2 air horn, Bestop Powerboards, RaceME Ultra Warp Tuning by DRD

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[Blackgoat]

What's the benefit? welcome my grid heater in winter..

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