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Mine looked exactly like that!
2012 Ram 2500, 4x4, 3.73, 5” lift, 35" tires, Pure Performance TB, 5100s, 4" FloPro TBE, EGR valve/cooler/throttle delete, S&B CAI, GDP heater delete, GDP S2 air horn, Bestop Powerboards, RaceME Ultra Warp Tuning by DRD
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I still can't get my crows foot on these fuel lines. Can someone help me out?
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2012 Larmie LongHorn 4x4 Crew Cab Longbed, MM3 tuned by Double R Diesel, Air-Boss 67, Mega-Flo Throttle Valve Grid Heater, Sinister EGR & Cooler Delete, FloPro DPF Delete Pipe, 2 micron CAT Fuel Filter, Baldwin BF1212 Fuel/Water Sep, BD Rear Diff Cover
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I know, it's a pain. Can you get an open end wrench on there and turn it just enough? I had the same troubles, first attempt leaked. Do you have a 19mm/3/4" flare nut wrench? May be able to slip that on it. I've even sacrificed a box end wrench for a flare nut wrench by cutting a slot in it.Originally Posted by CanDiesel
2013 Ram 2500 Big Horn 4x4 G56 CCLB 6.7, MM3 Tuned by Double R Diesel, Flo-Pro 4" Exhaust, Deviant Race Parts Goodies, ARP Head Studs, South Bend Clutch, 3" Thuren Front Springs w/Fox Shocks All-Around, Hell-Bent Steel Steering Box Brace, Thuren Track Bar, Air-Lift 5000, Deviant Race Parts 70" Traction Bars, Falken Wild-Peak AT3W LT285/75R18 (34.8x11.3x18) on Moto Metal MO970 18x9 +18mm
Well. My eyeball toruque worked so far! She's purring like a kitten an no leaks!!
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2012 Larmie LongHorn 4x4 Crew Cab Longbed, MM3 tuned by Double R Diesel, Air-Boss 67, Mega-Flo Throttle Valve Grid Heater, Sinister EGR & Cooler Delete, FloPro DPF Delete Pipe, 2 micron CAT Fuel Filter, Baldwin BF1212 Fuel/Water Sep, BD Rear Diff Cover
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walla2k5 liked this post
You don't need crows feet, and I doubt you'll be able to crack the lines loose with them. I've done several without them. You just need a short and long combo wrench. (Why do I want to say it's a 3/4 wrench. I forget. . . Old Age)
First time cracking those nuts is a bear. A real vane popper
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
Sinister copied the Shibby First Gen intake
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
****If you do not get the crossover tube nut tight enough 37 ft lbs ***** you will not hold rail pressure and even if it dont leak it will suck in air and not allow you to build pressure.... dont ask how i know LOL
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That's the stock intake, just a sinister block off plate
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2012 Larmie LongHorn 4x4 Crew Cab Longbed, MM3 tuned by Double R Diesel, Air-Boss 67, Mega-Flo Throttle Valve Grid Heater, Sinister EGR & Cooler Delete, FloPro DPF Delete Pipe, 2 micron CAT Fuel Filter, Baldwin BF1212 Fuel/Water Sep, BD Rear Diff Cover
I went for a drive last night and I was able to build 21k PSI. Truck ran great. I cleaned my MAP sensor while I was in there, it was almost entirely blocked off with soot.
Being the wonderfully paranoid and OCD person that I am though I can't help but think I either over or under tightened the fuel lines. When I parked the truck last night I popped the hood for a quick visual and there was an insignifigant amount of diesel sitting on the intake under the fuel rail. I have a feeling it's just fuel that dripped out of the fuel rail or line when I was putting everything back together but who knows right. I'm going to head out out shortly and dry everything off really well, clean it up a bit more and then go for another drive just to be sure there's no leaks.
This all does have me wondering about symptoms of a leak though, besides the obvious... Diesel fuel aon the intake or under the truck. I mean it is possible to not have a leak while idling at 5000 PSI and then for it to leak at 20000 PSI. So you're saying there would be a noticeable performance loss and an inability to build rail pressure. Would the engine throw a rail pressure code? I'm thinking that would be the telltale.
Thanks again everyone
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2012 Larmie LongHorn 4x4 Crew Cab Longbed, MM3 tuned by Double R Diesel, Air-Boss 67, Mega-Flo Throttle Valve Grid Heater, Sinister EGR & Cooler Delete, FloPro DPF Delete Pipe, 2 micron CAT Fuel Filter, Baldwin BF1212 Fuel/Water Sep, BD Rear Diff Cover
walla2k5 liked this post
mine did not throw any codes just did not hold rail pressure after 4K. I had zero leaks, which made me bang my head. So if you can build rail pressure with out any issues you should be good. Let me know how it goes.
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