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I told my Dad today I changed the oil in my 2017 pickup at 2100 miles. He asked "why the hell did you do that?" Then proceeded to tell me that when he bought his 2016 they told him DO NOT change the oil before it hits 10K miles because they put in some "break in additive" in the oil from the factory. Anyone heard of this BS? I didn't know you could change the oil too soon...
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I agree with your dad, you changed to early.
But I never heard of any manufacture tell anyone they put in an additive in their new truck engines.
In fact, all I have heard from manufactures was to not use any additives in their engines.
Plus, your truck came with all sync oil and it s recommended by them to keep using a full sync oil.
Jim
2006 ~ 2500HD, Big Horn Edition, 5.9, 4x4, Q/Cab, 48RE, L/B, 3.73, S&B CAI & Snout, ProFlo 5" S/S exhaust, Smarty Touch, Oil ByPass Kit, 60 gal main tank, 110 gallon in-bed tank, XX-Fuel Filter System, Coolant Bypass Kit, Mag-Hytec front & rear end covers and trans pan, 285 x 70 x 17
"Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children’s children what it was once like in the United States, where men 'were' free." ~ Ronald Regan
X2, that's the first I've heard of that also.
2013 Ram 2500 Big Horn 4x4 G56 CCLB 6.7, MM3 Tuned by Double R Diesel, Flo-Pro 4" Exhaust, Deviant Race Parts Goodies, ARP Head Studs, South Bend Clutch, 3" Thuren Front Springs w/Fox Shocks All-Around, Hell-Bent Steel Steering Box Brace, Thuren Track Bar, Air-Lift 5000, Deviant Race Parts 70" Traction Bars, Falken Wild-Peak AT3W LT285/75R18 (34.8x11.3x18) on Moto Metal MO970 18x9 +18mm
Why do you think I changed it too early? It was black... I put in Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-40 Turbo Diesel Truck oil and a strato filter. I have never heard of changing oil too early. It starts breaking down as soon as you put it in so I don't see what it could hurt. I don't care what anyone says 10K is way to long IMO.Originally Posted by AnOldBiker
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Diesel oil turns black from soot almost immediately after an oil change. It does not mean your oil is bad. The only way to tell what condition your oil really is in is with oil analysis. I did a test on my truck running oil analysis samples every 5000 miles and when I hit 30,000 miles the oil was still just fine. Every sample was black to include the first one at 5000 miles. I’m not encouraging breaking factory recommendations or doing long intervals, just showing that oil can last a lot longer than you think. A lot of variables play into oil degradation rates. I did my test running a dual filter setup on full synthetic Amsoil.
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Oil actually does not break down, it's the additives that break down and the debris that is collected that helps in the additives breaking. As for the color being black, if I changed my oil after it turned black, I'd feel lucky getting 100 miles out of it. That is usually the soot being collected in the oil. This happens in most diesel engines, and especially after the EPA added on more parts than the main engine requires to run.
I highly recommend doing an oil sample test the next oil change (I use BlackStone, but any good lab will work) and you might be surprised on the quality of the oil your throwing in the dump. After testing my oil at a lab, I found out my oil was in recommened specs at 15k mies of use .. and it was black as coal. There are after market by pass systems that will help tame the soot build up, or delete the EPA garbage if you can in your state. .
Jim
2006 ~ 2500HD, Big Horn Edition, 5.9, 4x4, Q/Cab, 48RE, L/B, 3.73, S&B CAI & Snout, ProFlo 5" S/S exhaust, Smarty Touch, Oil ByPass Kit, 60 gal main tank, 110 gallon in-bed tank, XX-Fuel Filter System, Coolant Bypass Kit, Mag-Hytec front & rear end covers and trans pan, 285 x 70 x 17
"Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children’s children what it was once like in the United States, where men 'were' free." ~ Ronald Regan
You are correct. I posted an article about that some time ago. The soot gets in the oil from blow by in the rings. It's nothing more than harmless carbon.
Did you change it too soon? That's debatable I guess.
I've been working for the dealer for 3 years and never heard of this breakin additive. Come to think of it, I've bought mostly new trucks and was never told of such a thing. I'll check it out
UPDATE. THERE IS NO BREAKIN ADDITIVE ADDED
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
I think I may have read that article. That's why I went with mobile 1. As far as soot goes, I know thats what turns the oil black. That soot has to have abrasives in it right? I guess I should have added into my original post that I only drive about 4-5000 miles a year. So I decided to change the oil every 6 months. I guess my reasoning is, it's easier to change fluids than change parts...Thanks for all the feed back guys.
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X2 way to early to have changed oil and I wouldn’t have put in Mobil 1 5W40 I only use and recommend Valvoline Premium Blue 15W40 which is what you get straight from the factory and is recommend especially for Cummins motors or possibly Amsoil 15W40 but never Mobil 1 maybe alright for internal combustion engines but not diesel motors and I have 950,000 miles on 4 Cummins Motors and never a lick of trouble and only use Fleetguard Oil and Fuel Filters
2012 Cummins Ram 6.7L MM3 tuner full 5" Flo Pro TBE Exhaust LWBCC 4x4 Mag Hytec Double Deep Transmission Pan , Mag Hytec Rear Diff Cover
Airlift part # 57595 7500lbs airbags ,Nitto Ridge Grapplers 35/12.50/20 on XD 829 Big Hoss ll Satin Black Machined Dark Tint 20 x 9 with + 18 offset rims,MM3 Tuner With full Custom Tunes by Ray at DRD , Autometer A13117 Pillar Pod , Edge 98004 mount adapter , Mag Hytec front diff cover, SuperNova V4 LED Headlight Bulbs
Well I used Mobil 1 for years and the lab reports came back good. I'd also stay with the 5w-40 .. since @TITAN lives in a colder climate and they tend to get very cold there.
I would recommend a quality oil and a quality filter. There are so many people with so many beliefs, a lab report will make sure you're good to go, or change brands. Over the years, I tried different brands and found my truck seems to prefer Rotella T6 best. My friend with his '05 found his runs best with Mobil 1. Others found theirs prefer others. But the quality oil brands are best. A lab report will confirm. And it will take some time and trials to confirm, just be patience.
But get more miles out of it. You can go two years with the 5k per year. Next change, put on a fomoto valve so you can draw a sample without an oil change once per year, then get the engine hot, draw a sample and send it in. No waste, and if it needs it, you can change it later when you get the report ... most times only a week later.
Something to consider.
Jim
2006 ~ 2500HD, Big Horn Edition, 5.9, 4x4, Q/Cab, 48RE, L/B, 3.73, S&B CAI & Snout, ProFlo 5" S/S exhaust, Smarty Touch, Oil ByPass Kit, 60 gal main tank, 110 gallon in-bed tank, XX-Fuel Filter System, Coolant Bypass Kit, Mag-Hytec front & rear end covers and trans pan, 285 x 70 x 17
"Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children’s children what it was once like in the United States, where men 'were' free." ~ Ronald Regan
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