Gotta love the build time on some vehicles
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Gotta love the build time on some vehicles
Rockwerx liked this post
Build up, build down, build back up LOL
My rig:
01 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 that I built. Mods: 8in Top gun customz long arm hit with 6in atlas springs in the rear, full bilsteins, 37s, fully built transmission with sun coast parts, full auto meter colbalt gauges, fuel pressure, over all boost, bottom turbo boost, tranny temp, egts, 4.10s, custom 3.5in intake horn, grid heater delete, II super dragon flow 11 hole injectors, Tst power max 3 comp smarty stack, twin double batmo wheel twins s362 62/68/14 over a s475 both with polished turbine housings, stainless diesel stainless steel polished exhaust manifold, fass 150 gph fuel system, aux tranny cooler, full pinoeer componet speaker system, flip out screen, 12in rockford fosgate power T2 sub wired to 1 ohm pushed by a 1000watt rockford fosgate ampAll comes together to be called the BDD
I am always just a little bit sad when I finish a project machine as I love the build process. The sadness wears off quickly as soon as I hear my new creation roar to life though!Originally Posted by Canadiandiesel
Tell me about it. fummins was at least 4 years, I lost track, but have notes somewhere. Time and $$$ play a big part though
2014 Ram 2500 CCSB Ram Box Larime
2011 Ram 5500
2006 Diesel Jeep Liberty
RIP. 2016 Tradesman 2500 picked up 9/28/16 MM3 DRD Tuning 107K miles wrecked by jeep wrangler.....
Other Toys: 1973 Charger Bougham edition 400 big block 42K original miles
Unicycles (about 3 dozen)
6 in a row makes her go
Replaced the Thermostat for the 2nd time today. The first replacement was all over the place in temps. This one seems to be reaching full temp and holding it. I guess the other new one was just bad out of the box. The original one was 10 years old and never broke 185.Sits on 190 now and my heater is back. The other day I had to card board the rad to get up to 160! Better combustion at full operating temps.
My safety blow off valve was leaking on the rail so I replaced it with a Shibby Plug. The rest of the system will prevent over pressure, but I seriously can't see how it can over pressure unless the engine runs away. Gained 2000 PSI of rail pressure. Smooth move on my part
I'm running 20% meth in my water tank to prevent it from freezing. You can feel it when the water kicks in. LOL
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
I personally would never just put a plug in, seen one to many blow up the rail or the lines I would however install a higher pressure relief, still have a safety involved
I guess if I was driving it with my foot in it all the time, I couldn't argue that. It was a "cheap" fix to an escalating problem.
Maybe that will blow those injectors clean. LOL
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
I agree. There is a good reason a relief valve is in the system. I would weigh the cost of new injectors against the cost of a new relief valve...the relief valve although seemingly expensive, it is quite cheap compared to the cost of replacing injectors. I do not think that it matters if you have your foot to the floor or not. The system is designed to bypass and over time the valve will wear out and need to be replaced.
I know I know. I don't have the money to fix it right at the moment. I said it was a cheap fix. I'm looking around for a used one that isn't leaking. The CP3 is only capable of making so much pressure. It too has a over pressure relief. Until I find a good replacement, I'm going to have to depend on the rest of the system.
You know I don't do stuff like this. I am always one for safety and doing the job right.
That reminds me. How can you tell if one is good or bad?
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
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