Transfer case clunk

[theaaronbush]

Ok guys, my 2012 with 68RFE has developed a clunk and i think I’ve pin pointed it to the transfer case. If I turn the wheels lock to lock, it’ll clunk and also at low speed (under 20mph) turns or small articulations. I’ve spent a lot of time under the truck trying to find something loose or binding but everything is tight and looks good. I had my son turn the wheels back and forth while I was under it and the clunk is for sure coming from the transfer case. It’s only developed within the last couple months. The mounts are still in good shape with no movement. I flushed the case about a year ago. It’s not the track bar or the bracket. It does not move. Any ideas what has developed?


2012 Ram 2500, 4x4, 3.73, 5” lift, 35" tires, Pure Performance TB, 5100s, 4" FloPro TBE, EGR valve/cooler/throttle delete, S&B CAI, GDP heater delete, GDP S2 air horn, Bestop Powerboards, RaceME Ultra Warp Tuning by DRD

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[kooler1]

Ok guys, my 2012 with 68RFE has developed a clunk and i think I’ve pin pointed it to the transfer case. If I turn the wheels lock to lock, it’ll clunk and also at low speed (under 20mph) turns or small articulations. I’ve spent a lot of time under the truck trying to find something loose or binding but everything is tight and looks good. I had my son turn the wheels back and forth while I was under it and the clunk is for sure coming from the transfer case. It’s only developed within the last couple months. The mounts are still in good shape with no movement. I flushed the case about a year ago. It’s not the track bar or the bracket. It does not move. Any ideas what has developed?


2012 Ram 2500, 4x4, 3.73, 5” lift, 35" tires, Pure Performance TB, 5100s, 4" FloPro TBE, EGR valve/cooler/throttle delete, S&B CAI, GDP heater delete, GDP S2 air horn, Bestop Powerboards, RaceME Ultra Warp Tuning by DRD

Sounds more like ball joints is there any play in the steering? Did you jack the truck up and check the ball joint? Also might be the U joints on one of the front hubs.


2012 ram 2500 4x4. 3” lift. 37x13.5x17 toyo mt. Smitty built grill, kenwood radio, bullet liner.

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[theaaronbush]

Sounds more like ball joints is there any play in the steering? Did you jack the truck up and check the ball joint? Also might be the U joints on one of the front hubs.


2012 ram 2500 4x4. 3” lift. 37x13.5x17 toyo mt. Smitty built grill, kenwood radio, bullet liner.

Ball joints are all new. I put my ear to the transfer case and it’s definitely it. The sound is not coming from the front of the truck. While sitting in park and turning the steering wheel, the front driveshaft turns a little bit and that’s when it clunks. I originally thought it was balljoints and that’s why they were replaced along with a new drag link.


2012 Ram 2500, 4x4, 3.73, 5” lift, 35" tires, Pure Performance TB, 5100s, 4" FloPro TBE, EGR valve/cooler/throttle delete, S&B CAI, GDP heater delete, GDP S2 air horn, Bestop Powerboards, RaceME Ultra Warp Tuning by DRD

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[bloombloom88]

Ball joints are all new. I put my ear to the transfer case and it’s definitely it. The sound is not coming from the front of the truck. While sitting in park and turning the steering wheel, the front driveshaft turns a little bit and that’s when it clunks. I originally thought it was balljoints and that’s why they were replaced along with a new drag link.


2012 Ram 2500, 4x4, 3.73, 5” lift, 35" tires, Pure Performance TB, 5100s, 4" FloPro TBE, EGR valve/cooler/throttle delete, S&B CAI, GDP heater delete, GDP S2 air horn, Bestop Powerboards, RaceME Ultra Warp Tuning by DRD

Gah, I dread the day I run into a problem like this. I wish I understood a little more about how they work. Subscribed, hopefully it's a cheap fix!

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[theaaronbush]

Gah, I dread the day I run into a problem like this. I wish I understood a little more about how they work. Subscribed, hopefully it's a cheap fix!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I do too! A rebuild kit isn’t very expensive and there’s really not a whole lot to the transfer case. While I’m at it, I’ll probably change out the ujoints on the front drive shaft as well. Wish me luck!


2012 Ram 2500, 4x4, 3.73, 5” lift, 35" tires, Pure Performance TB, 5100s, 4" FloPro TBE, EGR valve/cooler/throttle delete, S&B CAI, GDP heater delete, GDP S2 air horn, Bestop Powerboards, RaceME Ultra Warp Tuning by DRD

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[bloombloom88]

I do too! A rebuild kit isn’t very expensive and there’s really not a whole lot to the transfer case. While I’m at it, I’ll probably change out the ujoints on the front drive shaft as well. Wish me luck!


2012 Ram 2500, 4x4, 3.73, 5” lift, 35" tires, Pure Performance TB, 5100s, 4" FloPro TBE, EGR valve/cooler/throttle delete, S&B CAI, GDP heater delete, GDP S2 air horn, Bestop Powerboards, RaceME Ultra Warp Tuning by DRD

Best of luck!

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[Polaraco]

It could be the chain is stretched.

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[theaaronbush]

It could be the chain is stretched.

That’s what I’m thinking as well. I only use 4wd once per month just to actually engage it...I’ve never needed it but being that it’s always spinning, that is a possibility. I’m gonna try to record a video tomorrow of what I’m hearing and post it on here.


2012 Ram 2500, 4x4, 3.73, 5” lift, 35" tires, Pure Performance TB, 5100s, 4" FloPro TBE, EGR valve/cooler/throttle delete, S&B CAI, GDP heater delete, GDP S2 air horn, Bestop Powerboards, RaceME Ultra Warp Tuning by DRD

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[Polaraco]

That’s what I’m thinking as well. I only use 4wd once per month just to actually engage it...I’ve never needed it but being that it’s always spinning, that is a possibility. I’m gonna try to record a video tomorrow of what I’m hearing and post it on here.


2012 Ram 2500, 4x4, 3.73, 5” lift, 35" tires, Pure Performance TB, 5100s, 4" FloPro TBE, EGR valve/cooler/throttle delete, S&B CAI, GDP heater delete, GDP S2 air horn, Bestop Powerboards, RaceME Ultra Warp Tuning by DRD

With these modern trucks, you really don't need to do that. I had my 08 for 4 years and don't think I ever used it. I checked it once when I was trading it in. They're pretty reliable. The actuation system is monitored by the pooter so . . . . You're not supposed to drive them on dry roads. That's what stretches the chains.

That's why I have a RWD now. LOL All I need is a limited slip rear. Ironically, the previous owner had it removed and I just found one affordable enough this week. Life will be golden now.

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[theaaronbush]

With these modern trucks, you really don't need to do that. I had my 08 for 4 years and don't think I ever used it. I checked it once when I was trading it in. They're pretty reliable. The actuation system is monitored by the pooter so . . . . You're not supposed to drive them on dry roads. That's what stretches the chains.

That's why I have a RWD now. LOL All I need is a limited slip rear. Ironically, the previous owner had it removed and I just found one affordable enough this week. Life will be golden now.

I understand that! I literally never use 4wd! Resale is better on a 4wd HD truck and that’s mostly what you find around here unless it’s a cab and chassis. Supposedly the newer (‘13+) trucks have an unlocking transfer case and get a little better fuel economy as well. I saw that you found the rear end! Good luck with the install!


2012 Ram 2500, 4x4, 3.73, 5” lift, 35" tires, Pure Performance TB, 5100s, 4" FloPro TBE, EGR valve/cooler/throttle delete, S&B CAI, GDP heater delete, GDP S2 air horn, Bestop Powerboards, RaceME Ultra Warp Tuning by DRD

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