flashing lightning bolt

**pbrennan** · 06-06-2019

hi all, need some help. i have an 08 dodge ram 2500 6.7L mega cab 4x4. EGR and DPF deleted. smarty raceme tuner installed and 5 inch exhaust. 85xxx miles. a couple of weeks ago i got the flashing lightning bolt and a check engine light, symptoms were, loss of power, bad fuel economy, hard start and knocking. while waiting on parts i had to tow my excavator home and the next morning the flashing lightning bolt was gone and truck was back to normal. while we took the truck apart to change the number 6 connecting rod bearing we found that number 5 was bad as well. got the truck back together and all was fine, no lightning bolt, no knocks or check engine lights. i thought everything was fine til yesterday. while parked in a parking lot, the trucks idle jumped a bit and the lightning bolt and check engine lights were back. (UGH) and the knock.

so, this is what i have done, i have put injector cleaner in the tank ( this is the first thing i did prior to dropping the oil pan). cleaned ALL the terminals, grounds and battery posts. cleaned one ECM, cannot get the other off the computer box (?)

i get three codes from my smarty tuner, camshaft pressure sensor ( which i changed) fuel pressure sensor ( not changed) and sensor reference voltage 2 low. (?)

what else can i do?

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**RamIt** · 06-06-2019

Per another forum, hope this helps

The lightning bolt is your Electronic Throttle Control (ECT) Light.

Been there....after a lot of searching and reading here's the things to check.
- Battery connections (make sure there tight) including the where its grounded to the truck.
- Mass Air Flow sensor (make sure its clean and plugged in all the way)
- MAP sensor (make sure it clean)
- Air filter (make sure its clean)

I got this while deer hunting, do to really dusty conditions. Cleaned everything and found a connection that was loose.

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**AnOldBiker** · 06-06-2019

and

@pbrennan

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**Polaraco** · 06-06-2019

Originally Posted by pbrennan

hi all, need some help. i have an 08 dodge ram 2500 6.7L mega cab 4x4. EGR and DPF deleted. smarty raceme tuner installed and 5 inch exhaust. 85xxx miles. a couple of weeks ago i got the flashing lightning bolt and a check engine light, symptoms were, loss of power, bad fuel economy, hard start and knocking. while waiting on parts i had to tow my excavator home and the next morning the flashing lightning bolt was gone and truck was back to normal. while we took the truck apart to change the number 6 connecting rod bearing we found that number 5 was bad as well. got the truck back together and all was fine, no lightning bolt, no knocks or check engine lights. i thought everything was fine til yesterday. while parked in a parking lot, the trucks idle jumped a bit and the lightning bolt and check engine lights were back. (UGH) and the knock.

so, this is what i have done, i have put injector cleaner in the tank ( this is the first thing i did prior to dropping the oil pan). cleaned ALL the terminals, grounds and battery posts. cleaned one ECM, cannot get the other off the computer box (?)

i get three codes from my smarty tuner, camshaft pressure sensor ( which i changed) fuel pressure sensor ( not changed) and sensor reference voltage 2 low. (?)

what else can i do?

Stop throwing parts at it. Lets be sensible about this.

First of all, it's odd that bearings are dying that early. If the bearings are really bad, you might consider an oiling problem. That's not common either.

Those canbus systems are known for throwing red herring codes. They lead you in the wrong directions. I would have to be there to see the truck. Get am elcheapo oil pressure gauge and put it on the engine to see what you have. If you're losing bearings like that, you better consider having the crank turned. Yeah I know. It's a B&&^ch.

From the grumpy old man, WELCOME! We'll try to help you.

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**pbrennan** · 06-18-2019

okay, i finally got an oil pressure tester and tested my truck today, cold start the pressure was up 60, ran it for about 20 minutes and the pressure dropped down to 20. at 2000 rpm it jumped up to 64. could it be my oil pump? injectors? HELP

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**Polaraco** · 06-18-2019

Originally Posted by pbrennan

okay, i finally got an oil pressure tester and tested my truck today, cold start the pressure was up 60, ran it for about 20 minutes and the pressure dropped down to 20. at 2000 rpm it jumped up to 64. could it be my oil pump? injectors? HELP

I'm assuming your version of cold is like 80* F? If not, it sounds a bit low

Did you check your lift pump?

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**pbrennan** · 06-18-2019

Originally Posted by Polaraco

I'm assuming your version of cold is like 80* F? If not, it sounds a bit low

Did you check your lift pump?

more like 100*, have not checked my lift pump. god this is frustrating.

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**Polaraco** · 06-18-2019

Originally Posted by pbrennan

more like 100*, have not checked my lift pump. god this is frustrating.

It can be frustrated if you're not familiar with how a diesel works. 100*? If it's not raining, you have it made.

Have you looked at the fuel filter yet? If you see metal on the filer. the in tank pump is toast. That's one indicator. Too bad that's all plastic fuel lines. You could use that same oil gauge to see what the pressure it. You can use 2-3/8 hose barbs/clamps. See if you can read the pressure. It would be permanent then. it's only 20 PSI +/-. You can disconnect the line off the CP3 also. See if there is a good flow from the pump.

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**pbrennan** · 06-19-2019

Originally Posted by Polaraco

It can be frustrated if you're not familiar with how a diesel works. 100*? If it's not raining, you have it made.

Have you looked at the fuel filter yet? If you see metal on the filer. the in tank pump is toast. That's one indicator. Too bad that's all plastic fuel lines. You could use that same oil gauge to see what the pressure it. You can use 2-3/8 hose barbs/clamps. See if you can read the pressure. It would be permanent then. it's only 20 PSI +/-. You can disconnect the line off the CP3 also. See if there is a good flow from the pump.

will have a look at the filter tomorrow, i changed it just a month ago, but will look at it again. on another chat, one person said to check the fuel rail high pressure safety? i am dropping the oil pan tomorrow as the gasket needs changing and i will inspect the bearings again. if the bearings are bad again, could the oil pump be the problem? if the bearings ar good, then i will check the injectors?

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**Polaraco** · 06-19-2019

Originally Posted by pbrennan

will have a look at the filter tomorrow, i changed it just a month ago, but will look at it again. on another chat, one person said to check the fuel rail high pressure safety? i am dropping the oil pan tomorrow as the gasket needs changing and i will inspect the bearings again. if the bearings are bad again, could the oil pump be the problem? if the bearings ar good, then i will check the injectors?

Your oil pressure is pretty good so I don't suspect the oil pump. Filter maybe. FleetGuard from @Geno's Garage are the correct for the truck. You could change the pump while the pan is down for your personal concerns. Again, Check Geno's

For everyone reading this, I learned. Skimping on our trucks just bites us in the butt. Use premium parts or Mfg. parts on the engines and drivetrain. The aftermarket stuff leaves much to be desired and don't last. I'd rather buy a used alternator than a rebuilt as an example. Typically last twice as long than rebuilt, for 1/2 the price.

If you take the bearing apart again, click me a picture of the journal. I want to see if you'll need to turn the crank.

That light is still on for ya. Thanks

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